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Drilling Bars....

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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #11  
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ackman1968
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I will second what everyone else said. I did like Grind and drilled into the inside corner of the dimple. I used a 7/16 bit for the final size, made pulling the wires through real easy. Since I don't have a dremel I drilled two holes in the bottom where I want the wires to come out and cleaned it up with a die grinder. If you get original HD bars that are stainless make sure you have good bits.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 09:43 AM
  #12  
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I second that, about drilling/grinding stainless. Grinding is what I do for a living (hence the screenname) and stainless can be a bitch to work with sometimes.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #13  
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I used my dremmel and cutoff wheel. I did rectangular holes at both the controls and the area between the risers.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:13 PM
  #14  
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JRK5892
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wrap your wires GOOD MAN! you should be able to pull a cotton ball thought the hole without it getting caught... if now and you have edges your bike will ground out and you will be stuck on the road... i literally test the holes with a cotton ball... i internally wire all the time!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #15  
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Kaycee
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I take it you all cut and splice your wires ?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 04:07 PM
  #16  
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SURFOR Chop
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Originally Posted by Kaycee
I take it you all cut and splice your wires ?
Negative! ... undo the Deutsch connectors and then put em back the way you found them. It might help to take a photo so you remember how it goes back together.

R/
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 04:19 PM
  #17  
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JRK5892
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i cut and splice... soldering is somehting i do all the time so it is easier for me to do it like that... ext kits are pretty cheap though
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #18  
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condition001
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+1 on JRKs cotton ball idea, i just did mine this past weekend. it takes a bit of effort to get it perfectly smooth, but the peace of mine is worth the time to me. if you do solder the wires, peel back a good 8" of the jacket, and stagger the connections every inch or so. this makes it easier to pull through because you dont have one huge lump. I then heat-shrunk the jacket back into place as well. also, its always good to put the heat shrink on the wire and slide it off to the side BEFORE you solder the wire. sucks having to undo the joints to put the stuff on. don't ask me how i know...
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 08:15 PM
  #19  
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ackman1968
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It takes just a few seconds to knock the connector off. If I needed to extend it I would cut and splice but since stock worked I went the connector route.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 09:36 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ackman1968
It takes just a few seconds to knock the connector off.
Yeah, when you know what you're doing. I farted around with the first (Molex) connector for better than an hour, bouncing from the garage to the computer, searching for anything about connectors and trying to find a picture. I tried in vain, using the technique by mudpuddle and someone else in the touring corner, to pull the inner lockplate out. I ended up going from the other side and pushing the tabs for the lockplate. The second connector was undone in 3.2 seconds, though.
 
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