06 dyna fork oil change. Easy way??
Former Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,360
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From: Davie, FL
110 mm = 4.330708661422" and that is with the slider collapsed, spring and compressor out (the hollow tube)
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
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From: the 50s & the 60s
Should be fully compressed etc etc
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
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From: la
The Progressive instructions say their springs displace more oil due to their design and max level should be 5.5". I'm getting ready to do this job Saturday so I'm all ears on the best way.http://www.progressivesuspension.com...rings/3055.pdf
Last edited by paul s; Feb 12, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,500
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From: Brunswick, OH
So I'm in the middle of reworking my forks. So based on that page mud, before I put the spring back in, I should pull the fork lower all the way up, a.k.a. fully compressed, and pour oil in until it's 4.3" from the top opening. Correct? I think that's how that reads.
EDIT: Disregard, my bike is an 05, and the service manual has a chart showing how much to put in, in ounces. I'll use that instead, sounds easier to measure than inches from the top.
EDIT: Disregard, my bike is an 05, and the service manual has a chart showing how much to put in, in ounces. I'll use that instead, sounds easier to measure than inches from the top.
Last edited by MZBuckeye; Feb 12, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
Thread Starter
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Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 23,881
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From: USA
I read somewhere that those allens were adjustment screws not drains...true?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
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From: Chesterfield, VA
They are seat pipe screws which retain the damper and innards in the bottom of the fork sliders. They are in there pretty tight an often require an impact wrench to break them loose. They take a long shaft 12mm allen wrench. They can also be a bitch to tighten if the damper spins in the tube as you reinstall them.
Since you have to remove the wheel anyway to get to these allen head seat pipe screws, why not just go ahead an remove the fender, then slide the tubes from the trees, and not have to mess with these screws. Its pretty quick and easy once you've gotten that far.
Since you have to remove the wheel anyway to get to these allen head seat pipe screws, why not just go ahead an remove the fender, then slide the tubes from the trees, and not have to mess with these screws. Its pretty quick and easy once you've gotten that far.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 413
Likes: 1
From: texas
They are seat pipe screws which retain the damper and innards in the bottom of the fork sliders. They are in there pretty tight an often require an impact wrench to break them loose. They take a long shaft 12mm allen wrench. They can also be a bitch to tighten if the damper spins in the tube as you reinstall them.
Since you have to remove the wheel anyway to get to these allen head seat pipe screws, why not just go ahead an remove the fender, then slide the tubes from the trees, and not have to mess with these screws. Its pretty quick and easy once you've gotten that far.
Since you have to remove the wheel anyway to get to these allen head seat pipe screws, why not just go ahead an remove the fender, then slide the tubes from the trees, and not have to mess with these screws. Its pretty quick and easy once you've gotten that far.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 3
From: Chesterfield, VA
You need not mess with anything on the lower end except the axle clamp to change the fluid.
Maybe that is their way of justifying their labor for a fork oil change.
