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06 dyna fork oil change. Easy way??

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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 07:59 PM
  #21  
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HOGRIDA_06
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Originally Posted by JRK5892
why why why do dealers LIE!
They know that most of the people that buy bikes will never work on them so they can charge you what ever they want. Why would they tell you how to do something in a hour when they can charge you three to do it for you? It's all about the money. Thanks to the members of HDFroums.com were all saving time and money.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #22  
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26.6 ounces is the correct amount.
12 mm allen key is needed to remove the screws at the bottom of tubes.
If you can't find the socket (which was tough for me) Sears sells the allen key.
Buy it, cut off the short turned end with a hacksaw and use a deep well 12 mm socket to place the allen key in.
The tubes will turn when trying to remove the bolt.
I used a c-clamp with a cloth in between at the location where the fender mounts to give me resistance to undo the bolt.
Let it drain. Then reinsert the bolts and remove the forktube caps.
Caution, the springs will make the fork caps pop out like a rocket so take it slow and second set of hands is a great thing to have.
Fill from top side with 26.6 oz of fluid.
I used the SE Heavy in mine and have been satisfied with the feel so far.
Hope this helps.............
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jmpancoast
They are seat pipe screws which retain the damper and innards in the bottom of the fork sliders. They are in there pretty tight an often require an impact wrench to break them loose. They take a long shaft 12mm allen wrench. They can also be a bitch to tighten if the damper spins in the tube as you reinstall them.

Since you have to remove the wheel anyway to get to these allen head seat pipe screws, why not just go ahead an remove the fender, then slide the tubes from the trees, and not have to mess with these screws. Its pretty quick and easy once you've gotten that far.

Yeah, i had to use an impact to remove them but only hand tightened them when i re-installed do you think i should use an impact to tighten?. I thought they where just stuck or some crap.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #24  
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Torque for seat pipe screw is 106-159in-lbs[12-18Nm]
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 10:00 PM
  #25  
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I would hit them with a short burst from an impact on "LOW". I did this on one and forgot on the other. Guess what, other leaked a bit till pulled it apart and gave it a quick hit with the impact.

Only reason I use the impact instead of a torque wrench is cause the damn damper rod wants to spin when trying to torque the bolts down.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 06:56 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by paul s
Torque for seat pipe screw is 106-159in-lbs[12-18Nm]
Thanks Paul s for the torque spec...........it's been together for two days now not one spot of oil.....so im think im good......thanks
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 07:39 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by KBFXDLI
Yeah..maybe the hard way is the easy way...don't know why HD didn't put a drain screw on the fork tubes.
Because they had some bean counter that noticed they were paying Showa for a set of forks with drain plugs for years and if they had Showa not drill, tap and install the plug they would save nearly $2 on a production run of 10,000 units.

The board of directors met, the CEO did a power point presentation, they all went to ski @ Vail in the corporate jet and then, agreed that for saving nearly $2 in a production run they couldn't justify installing a machine screw in the backside of the slider. The added bonus would be for the dealer to be able to charge more for the scheduled maintenance which would be enough of a boost for the dealer for them to be able to stand listening to his customers bad mouth H-D for not installing the drain plug.

Thank you for your support.....
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 02:50 AM
  #28  
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WHEN i DID MINE I WENT AHEAD AND REPLACED THE SEALS N SUCH (AT 32000), I drilled drain plugs n wont be pulling nothing out now I can change it like I did on all my early models. We got screwed on that deal.
 
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