Handlebar Question
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: here
Handlebar Question
I'm getting ready to put 8" risers on an 09 Fat Bob. Stock are 5" with a slight offset toward the rider, these are straight, so plus 3" and probably about the same pull back after accounting for angle.
It looks like the front brake line from the reservoir might be a bit too short for the new risers unless the elbow into the little splitter / manifold under the triple tree can be turned.
I've seen lots of new bars and risers but cannot find a post where anyone mentions what they had to do with the brake lines.
Can I rotate that one elbow fitting, or just replace the line from the reservoir to that little manifold or do I have to go buy a whole complete assembly?
Much appreciated, thank you.
It looks like the front brake line from the reservoir might be a bit too short for the new risers unless the elbow into the little splitter / manifold under the triple tree can be turned.
I've seen lots of new bars and risers but cannot find a post where anyone mentions what they had to do with the brake lines.
Can I rotate that one elbow fitting, or just replace the line from the reservoir to that little manifold or do I have to go buy a whole complete assembly?
Much appreciated, thank you.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville, IA
You can turn it by loosening the banjo bolt, but if you introduce any air into the system, you'll have to bleed it which can be a pain in the a$$. Also, you can bend the steel line slightly. Just be careful not to kink it. Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything, that stuff is nasty.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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cfdcaptain99
Thanks for the advice about air, bleeding and the fluid.
When you say turn by loosening the banjo bolt do you mean turn the manifold around the bolt or will loosening the bolt actually let me rotate the elbow instead of bending it? I think the manifold orientation is OK, I just want to rotate the elbow where it enters the manifold if I can do that without breaking it off.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the advice about air, bleeding and the fluid.
When you say turn by loosening the banjo bolt do you mean turn the manifold around the bolt or will loosening the bolt actually let me rotate the elbow instead of bending it? I think the manifold orientation is OK, I just want to rotate the elbow where it enters the manifold if I can do that without breaking it off.
Thanks again!
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: here
OK, one more try about brake lines
I'll take another shot at this, doesn't look like I asked the question clearly enough the first time.
There is a small manifold / splitter bolted to the bottom of the triple tree on a Fat Bob that splits the single line coming from the master cylinder into two separate lines that go to the dual front brake calipers.
Does anyone know if the steel fittings / elbows on that manifold are screwed in or welded in?
Alternatively, what have any other Fat Bob owners done to replace the brake lines and manifold when changing bars, moving the master cylinder farther away from that junction?
Thanks everyone, promise last post on this topic.
Ride Safe.
There is a small manifold / splitter bolted to the bottom of the triple tree on a Fat Bob that splits the single line coming from the master cylinder into two separate lines that go to the dual front brake calipers.
Does anyone know if the steel fittings / elbows on that manifold are screwed in or welded in?
Alternatively, what have any other Fat Bob owners done to replace the brake lines and manifold when changing bars, moving the master cylinder farther away from that junction?
Thanks everyone, promise last post on this topic.
Ride Safe.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
For a 3" change in length I would replace the line from the master cylinder to the manifold. You may end up stressing the cable when you turn the bars stop to stop if you don't.
If you do change the line, invest in a set of "Speed Bleeder" valves and bleeding them will be much simpler.
If you do change the line, invest in a set of "Speed Bleeder" valves and bleeding them will be much simpler.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: here
Thanks
RSA05FXDWGI, thank you.
I'm interpreting if the line is replaceable it must unscrew from the manifold. Perfect! I was afraid to put a wrench on it, but will give that a shot now.
And thanks for the advice on the Speed Bleeder, great idea.
I'm interpreting if the line is replaceable it must unscrew from the manifold. Perfect! I was afraid to put a wrench on it, but will give that a shot now.
And thanks for the advice on the Speed Bleeder, great idea.
dude you can bend your lines and get an easy 3 in... hell i went form 12 - 16.5 on my stock... just take your time bending the lines i do it all time on my buddies rides
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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Thanks Joe,
The lines are flexible, just pulled slightly tight because the fitting going into that little splitter is rotated the wrong way. I'm going to try rotating it up a few degrees to see if that gives me enough slack. Only worry was breaking it, but assuming it's screwed in, the direction of rotation that gives me slack is CCW (looser), it might leak. Otherwise, figure you're right, I think there is enough slack in the stock lines to let me move the bars up 3".
Thanks
The lines are flexible, just pulled slightly tight because the fitting going into that little splitter is rotated the wrong way. I'm going to try rotating it up a few degrees to see if that gives me enough slack. Only worry was breaking it, but assuming it's screwed in, the direction of rotation that gives me slack is CCW (looser), it might leak. Otherwise, figure you're right, I think there is enough slack in the stock lines to let me move the bars up 3".
Thanks
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