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Brake rotor bolts

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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 09:23 PM
  #21  
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Well the SM also tells you to to do quite a few absolutely unnecessary things when doing various work on your bike. There are also things it should tell you that it doesn't. You have to use your head/common sense when working on your bike.

This ain't rocket science & it isn't very techie stuff otherwise you surely wouldn't be taking your bike to the dealerships & letting their monkey's work on your bike.

You should be more worried about stripping out the threads in your aluminum wheel hub than worried you're "overstretching" or gonna break a steel bolt which is also most likely a grade 8.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #22  
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you and guy before you can do as you wish. but it is still not smart, sorry.
Originally Posted by Azgunner
Well the SM also tells you to to do quite a few absolutely unnecessary things when doing various work on your bike. There are also things it should tell you that it doesn't. You have to use your head/common sense when working on your bike.

This ain't rocket science & it isn't very techie stuff otherwise you surely wouldn't be taking your bike to the dealerships & letting their monkey's work on your bike.

You should be more worried about stripping out the threads in your aluminum wheel hub than worried you're "overstretching" or gonna break a steel bolt which is also most likely a grade 8.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 10:20 PM
  #23  
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I replaced my pulley bolts and rear rotor bolts. I kept the stock front rotor bolts. The front rotor bolts aren't torque'd down to bad, but the rear rotor and pulley are pretty tough. I believe it was 30-45 lbs. for rear rotor bolts, and 65-75 lbs for the pulley bolts. I'd replaced those. The front was 16-24, and they looked perfect, so no need to replace those.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 02:18 AM
  #24  
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No prob. I have already put my money where my mouth is. 100,000 mi.maintenance was replacing my belt & rear pulley among other things. I used the same chrome pulley bolts that were installed around 17k miles on the new pulley, red loctite & correct torque. If I ever have any problems I will re-post to this thread.

BTW tlb you said you were neither an engineer nor a mechanic & that you've pulled lots of hardened bolts that were stretched. How much had they stretched, as in what were the before & after measurements, & what measuring device did you use?

I had a friend whose pulley bolts, one of them, did back out on a ride because they were not loctited. We loctited them & tightened them as much as possible at a gas station & he's never had a problem since. Believe me, when that one bolt started backing out he knew it. Pulleys don't just come flying off.

As I said before, "Some of you guys think WAAAY too much & end up WAAAY over engineering you motorcycles in your own mind. " If it makes you feel better than good on you.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 06:24 AM
  #25  
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service manual says to replace them...just did my wheels and why take the chance
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 07:10 AM
  #26  
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Default Bolt replacement????

Come on guys these are not torque to yield fasteners, they are standard grade 8 fasteners with pre-installed dry loc-tite on the threads.. Anyone ever think its a way for HD to cover their a$$e$ in the case of a reused
fastener backing out because of a less than qualified dealer tech installing the parts??? Some folks on here are funny about the things they profess to know about... BTW a fastener is only permanently stretched if overtorqued or turned to its yield point... This is done by manufacturers for a number of reasons which I dont have time to explain but I believe reuse of these pulley and rotor bolts is fine based on inspection and reapplication of loc-tite.... Also I would suspect the aluminum hub threads would stretch and deform first before bolt failure??????.......................tim
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 08:37 AM
  #27  
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I solved my dilema about whether or not to replace them. I got chrome bolts for both the rotor and pulley.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 09:07 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tlb
Do they really cost enough to worry about not replacing them?
Its not always about cost. Sometimes a drive to the dealership is not part of the plan.

Also as stated before, I often wonder what percentage of that recommendation is for profit and what part is for safety.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #29  
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I would always make safety part of my plan. I was hoping this debate was over. However, if you want to be a statistic, to save a few bucks, then go for it.
I just do not understand why someone would risk the cost of a new rotor, the rear wheel, swingarm and possible death, to save less than 10 bucks.
But hey, here's your sign.

Originally Posted by redrubicon2004
Its not always about cost. Sometimes a drive to the dealership is not part of the plan.

Also as stated before, I often wonder what percentage of that recommendation is for profit and what part is for safety.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 09:44 AM
  #30  
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Ya know, I'm thinking: how many times am I going to have the pulley or rotors off? In my mind there is enough question surrounding the pulley bolt issue, that I would just replace the grade 8 bolts that come stock in the bike, whether I'm working on the pulley or the rotors.

Ace hardware carries a full set of bolts. I will not use chromed bolts, but I will put chromed caps on the bolts.

All of these thoughts brought to you by:
A. 40 years of working on my own vehicles.
B. A healthy does of common sense (thank you dad).
C. Free will.
D. Living in a free country.

As I said before, "Some of you guys think WAAAY too much & end up WAAAY over engineering you motorcycles in your own mind. " If it makes you feel better than good on you.
Yup, it does make me feel better. As previously posted, it is risk-avoidance. If I can perform a service that reduces a controllable risk, I'm going to do it. There is enough inherent risk in getting on the bike in public anyway, and I do that as much as possible.

I want to worry about things I can't control.... not things I can control.

who ever reads this may do as they wish
 
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