Well, after spending 4+ hrs driving around collecting the necessary tools (35mm socket), 12mm allen socket, fork oil,etc. I started the project.

It sucked.

I did install drain plugs and one leaked bad. I was going to use some 1/4-20 screws I had here. I was kind of rushing and drilled the hole 1/4". Left me not enough metal to tap it for 1/4-20. I had to tap it 5/16-18.

To stop the leaking, I wrapped some teflon tape around the threads and tightened it back up. It's been an hour and I don't see anymore leaks.

I don't like how the drains worked out. I definitely wanted smaller less conspicuous screws, not a 1/2" (head) stickin out the back of the lower.

I didn't use the new huge dust caps. Didn't like how they mounted and saw why they say the SE fork brace wouldn't work. I reused the chrome dust caps I had on there originally.

I did lose control of the fork cap nut a few times and took a nice chunk out of my front fender. I even tried the squeeze clamp idea I found on another forum for sporties. It helped in compressing everything down but was difficult when it came time to engage the threads.

I haven't ridden it yet nor have I cleaned up the yard. Just a little pissed off.

I used drag specialties 20w (heavy) oil. We'll see how it tightens up the front end.

Maybe I'll take some pics tomorrow. Maybe I'll just sit around and drink some beers. Haven't decided yet.

I did refer to pkelly's threads a few times. Big help. The manual was no help whatsoever, in my eyes.

Thanks for doing that Patrick. Great references.

Btw, I have the oem aluminum lowers for sale if someone wants 'em for powdercoating. Make me a reasonable offer. 49mm, single disc.

 

from what year bike

 

07 wg

 

Wow, sounds like you had more than your share of "issues". Glad to hear that some of my previous info was helpful to you. Did you tackle the fork tube caps by yourself? I wouldn't THINK to do them without a helper; lotsa spring force to overcome, let alone trying to start delicate threads under such conditions. I just got home from a run to Salem...200+ miles down yesterday, then back this afternoon. Saw your PM when I got home and tried calling at 6pm (pacific), but got your answering machine. After reading your post, I can guess why you were trying to get ahold of me! Left my number if you still need to talk to me.

Another thought; you might be able to get 5/16" pipe-thread(?) plugs for your drains. They look like an Allen set-screw on steroids; the right length one (cut/grind) will sit near flush, and would eliminate the 1/2" hex-head sticking out the back of your lowers.

 

Yeah, I saw that you called. I was already in bed. Mondays I have to wake up at 4am. Ah well. I forgot what I was calling for but yeah, it was a blast!

I figured you'd be out riding which is what I wanted to be doing. I appreciate the call back though. Thanks.

 

One thing I want to add to this is the fact that when I drained my right side (non-brake side) fork, the fluid was a nice clean looking reddish pink color. When I drained the left side (brake side) fork, it was the nastiest color brown I have ever seen. That has me a little worried. I'm not sure why one side would be in good shape and the other not. Maybe FastHarley (Howard) can explain this to me.

Patrick, I forgot to add, I'll look into the 5/16" pipe plug. Not sure how it'll work out. Not that I really WANT to but I'm resigned myself to dropping a couple of bills on a new set of chrome lowers. I may see if I can get the drilled lowers welded and rechromed. It'll probably cost me just as much as a new set ($299.95 from HD, p/n: 46589-06b).

 

Okay I'm officially taking this off my list of things I might try to do on my own. I remember being intimidated about removing my rear wheel to install a pulley cover but I eventually went for it and got it done based on info and help from this forum. I thought maybe chrome lowers would be the next thing I could try to tackle and do myself. Now I am thinking it may be a job for someone more experienced and with the right tools. It's the next project on my list but will likely have to wait to be a winter mod.

 

Heat. Since the brake caliper is mounted to the fork slider, that big chunk of aluminum acts like a heat sink for the brakes. Plus you've got radiated heat off the brake disc itself, so the left fork gets considerably hotter than the right.

If you want to see what I'm talking about, next time you use your front brake for a quick stop from high speed, pull over, get off, and grab the fork sliders with your bare hands. See which one is cool/warm and which one is hot.

 

It wasn't THAT bad. I didn't get frustrated until I had to loosen the fork pinch bolts and found that one came loose with avg force while the other had that darn white lok-tite HD is so proud of. I ended up stripping the torx head...drill it and ez-out it. Pain in the ***. I'd suggest amongst the necessary tools to add some new pinch bolts. If you can, get an allen head version. The torx screws suck.

No doubt when I change out the lowers again (and I will) i'll get it done in half the time because I'm already familiar with the process.

The downside is when you remove the fork cap. When you loosen it, it will be under a good amount of pressure so when the threads disengage, it'll want to go flying. Work from the front of the bike so the fork cap will go towards the back of the bike based on the angle of the forks. If you're face is on the receiving end of that huge cap, it's gonna leave a mark. Also, cover your tank, front fender with a lot of padding. Ask me how I know.

List of tools necessary for the job:

Drain pain: Lots of fluid in the forks. Need a good size pan to catch it all.
12mm allen: I found one at NAPA on a socket that was just long enough to fit inside the left side lower.
1 3/8" (1.375" or 35mm) 6pt socket: Found at either autozone or Advanced Auto. They only had 1/2" drive so I had to buy a 1/2" drive ratchet. You could also buy a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter to use on 3/8 ratchet.
10mm or 12mm 12pt socket: two bolts holding the caliper to the forks. I don't remember exact size. I wanna say it was 12mm 12pt.
Drift: an awl with a flat surface to pop the dust covers off the old forks. It will roll the cover just a bit but not bad. Just line it back up with slot of lowers and you won't see the rolled metal.

The service manual is pretty much useless for this job. I didn't find anything in there that gave me any insight to the job that just jumping into it didn't do.

In my own defense, I don't have a workshop. I had to do this in the yard. I laid a sheet of plywood down. rolled bike onto it then jacked it up from there. Gave me a fairly level surface to work from. Plus I had a place to lay tools and nuts and stuff and not lose them in the grass.

I am now a hater of the HD lift adapters. I had one of the adpaters seperate on me. I hate having to learn the hard way. I should have just spent the money and bought a j&s or pitbull. Jacks designed for our frames. The sears red jack didn't seem stable at all. I did not have a lot of confidence in it at all. Maybe on a flat concrete surface it might be different but I don't have that at my disposal at the moment.

I did use my front fender as a means to keep the lowers rigid so I could loosen/tighten that 12mm allen drain screw. Worked out well. I had no fear of twisting the fender. Also, removing the front wheel THEN loosen the 12mm bolts THEN remove the fender. Access to the fender bolts is much easier with the tire out of the way.

Also, when it comes time to reassemble the forks, you can slide the lower up and get the fork seal started but to utilize the 2" pvc I had to remove the forks from the trees. Slide the 2"pvc over the forks and just tap the fork seal into place. I did put the forks in a vise. I wrapped them with a towel before doing so. I did not mar the surface at all. That is why I suggested having new pinch bolts handy. There is always one that is stubborn. I had the same problem when I relocated my front signals to the trees. One pinch bolt came out nice the other I had to ez-out.

2007fxdc...I know you're in eastern NC (fayetteville? Raleigh?) if I remember. It's not that bad and I would suggest having a 2nd pair of hands around at least for the fork caps. I'll volunteer since I'm now an old pro at it. You have the knowledge from Pkelly and now myself.

Don't let my experience sway you from not doing it yourself. It's really not that bad. I was ticked off. I had a bad weekend with my g/f (first real bad weekend in 3+ yrs) and it came through on my original post. Seriously though if you want help, I'd help you out.

 

That makes perfect sense. Never thought of the heat factor. Thanks Gary.