My stock rotors became warped from heat so I replaced them with the floating rotors. My pads are never touching the rotors now and I can ride throgh the city to work and they stay cool. No more adjusting pads.

 

The semi-floating (HD term) came when they joined 2 pieces of SS with "precision rivets" (I have no idea what that is). The 2 pieces of SS is not solidly joined but they do not or hardly move either. A HD marketing ploy of selling 2 drop forged pieces of SS (carrier & friction ring) joined together with rivets. A very efficient manufacturing process to maske a large profit. For real rotors are cut from a sheet where none of the molecular layers are disturbed and lay flat. With drop forging the layers are "bent" at the edge where the shearing occurs. When a rotor is heated up the molecular layer wishes to return to its original rolled flat layer.

It is up to you to do your research when spending your hard eared money. I would estimate these HD "Semi-Floating" rotors cost HD in the neighborhood of $35/each or less including packaging from China.

There has been much discussion on this subject in the past. Bottom line is a 300 mm single rotor weighs in at 8 lbs and does not move freely latterly. A good SS with aluminum carrier weighs around 3 lbs. The friction ring is replaceable when worn out. The SS w/aluminum carrier cost a little under $100 more than the HD 300 mm $229.00 Semi floating rotor.

 

I've not seen Harley describe any of their rotors as "semi-floating." Also, the method they use of button riveting the friction disc to the carrier is the same as used by every other bike maker who puts floating rotors on their bikes.

As for shearing, what kind of shearing occurs with a forged rotor? Shearing would happen with the "cut" rotors. And honestly, I don't think you're correct about this. I've never heard this business about "cut" rotors. With the exception of carbon rotors used on some exotic cars, all automotive rotors are forged, whether they are one piece or two piece. For bikes, I don't see any advantage to cutting the rotors from a sheet of steel. Forging would give you a far stronger disc.

In the P&A catalog a basic floating rotor is $129.

 

Not being in the know. If one currently has a stock solid rotor with the stock mounted 4 piston caliper, can you change to a floating rotor of the same diameter WITHOUT any changes to the stock caliper and/or pads? Any other modifications needed to go to floating rotors?

 

Assuming that all of the specs of the rotor are the same (diameter, bolt pattern, thickness.) No caliper changes should be needed.

 

Yes, I did it. I am still running stock brakes with a thunderstar wheel and floating rotor.

 

>>>I've not seen Harley describe any of their rotors as "semi-floating."
<<< I have in older books with the same parts
>>> Also, the method they use of button riveting the friction disc to the carrier is the same as used by every other bike maker who puts floating rotors on their bikes.
<<< True, as what they claim (HD floating rotors/semi floating rotors and other budget bikes) but not every bike manufacturer. Look at any high performance bike and this use of button riveting system is not used as they are a non performance piece. Just for customers who wish a floating rotor and do not wish to pay for it. A for real person would not have this on any high performance bike.
>>> As for shearing, what kind of shearing occurs with a forged rotor? Shearing would happen with the "cut" rotors.
<<< Come on down to the shop and I'll show you several machines whose purpose is to do just that. Work a day on one and than you would know for sure. The die's are loaded and a sheet of material is places on the stamping machine. We do not stamp out rotors for just such a reason as mentioned above. Here are photos of one of our small ones: Sorry, I will have to take some as the small one is behind this shear and to the right of the wall. We have several of various sizes.

>>>> For bikes, I don't see any advantage to cutting the rotors from a sheet of steel. Forging would give you a far stronger disc.
<<< Neither do I. That is why you will not see a HD rotor on my bike for the obvious reasons ie: heavy, poor quality, and is not a high performance piece of equipment.

Gary7;4933448
For any more information from a source look at a company called American Wheel who imports this type of blank from China. They than sell this to small shops such as OCC whereas they cut patterns in them for lots of money. As far as (I've not seen Harley describe any of their rotors as "semi-floating.") just start reading.


>>> In the P&A catalog a basic floating rotor is $129.
<<< Come on, read a little into what I am saying, that price is what these importers use to pay one year ago when I was thinking of looking into it. I am not a person who buys stuff out of a catalog nor am I a person who does not know what I am talking about before, during, or after my post. I would suggest for you to adopt this also before posting.

For any further proof, stop on by and after a few weeks you would have a basic education in different manufacturing techniques.

 

FastHarley, I see by your signature you have a vested interest in peddling your wares, so I take all your "info" with a grain of salt.

But I took your advice and did more research on the subject. What I found was just how inaccurate your "info" is. I invite others to do their own research on the subject of brake rotors and judge for themselves the veracity of your posts.

 

Call Lyndall Racing Brake 2131 So. Hathaway, Santa Ana, CA 92705, Phone: 800-400-9490, Business Line: 714-241-9991 or All American wheel 562-602-6560 who actually know what they are talking about also as they import from China. Please specify the information you are requesting is for the ones on this post: HD "Semi-Floating" rotors.

I come with accurate information and members like yourself question it. You say I am pedding wares, I have read my posting and no where it is indicated that is the truth. I do not sell this type of quality of equipment. Price alone would preclude most from even reading and I am not a player in this field. How do you arrive with this conclusion other than to deflect the facts of this post. This post is about manufacturing and processes. I welcome any member questioning this posting but you Gary7 have stated that you know the facts which you do not. Your information is incorrect and does not require any salt. Know what you are talking about before you post. I would like to state that I do not care one way or another what rotor you buy but I do care about the truth and accuracy.

 

Can I redirect this back to a question someone might be able to answer, I have been looking at composite rotors Lyndal and W8less, 500.00 vs 300.00 each. Any feedback from anyone between the two?