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Do a search on this forum and you will find a post I made about installing my passenger pegs and mounts. The book says you have to take off the rear wheel. You don't have to but on the drive belt side, it will be a real pain because the belt is going to get in the way. A Snapon torx 45 with the rachet is to tall. I used a craftsman and with a little flexing the belt it worked. on the side where the drive belt cover is there is a little black bracket that used to be there before the passenger peg mounts were installed and then the drive belt guard and t was bolted to it. It's called a belt guard bracket. Will cost about $9 from the dealer. There was also a post on here about that and it included the part number. Be careful with the torx's they are easy to strip. Wack them in the middle with a small punch and hammer a couple of times and it will loosen up any loctite and might make them easier to remove.
If you are going to change the derby cover and don't know the maintenance history of the bike, I would probably change the primary chaincase fluid, then do the transmision and engine oil. I recommend synethic. You can read ad nasuem here how one is better than the other. I do use the 75/90W synethic gear oil in the primary chain case and transmission. It makes it run quieter IMHO. I use 20W/50 syn in the engine.
Have fun be safe. If you use the forum search you will find more details on many of the questions you asked.
I've been lurking here a week or so and did find answers to some of my questions, but I had some specific things so I just did a big list. Sorry for the annoyance. I probably won't post too much after this. I'm more of a lurker, unless I can't find an answer I need.
Thanks for the good info on removing the passenger pegs and what parts I'll need to go back to stock.
What brand oil are you running and where do you buy it? I was going to go synthetic. What grade tranny oil do you use?
If your key is hard to turn, Ive found that wiggling the handlebars while turning the key helps. The wheel locking mechanism sometimes rests heavily against the lock bolt and moving it helps. Same with a car , turning the key while moving the steering wheel.
I use Royal purple, other folks on here swear by the Mobil both of them make a brand especially for cycles. I'm here with USFK on Yongsan and the PX does not stock. So use just the regular Royal purple and its fine. I change the engine every 2,500 oil is cheap (well not real cheap but cheaper than engine parts) The big twins run hot especially the rear cylinder. For the tranny and chain case I follow the manual. In the winter, (manual has a warning) the short runs are oil killers. Water condenses and can freeze and block oil passages. I ride a couple of extra miles just to make sure it gets hot enough to burn the moisture off.
I also noticed a loose electrical connector hanging behind the air cleaner cover. It seemed to have a peg that fit into a hole in the back of the air cleaner so I just pushed it in. Is this where it's supposed to go?
Went to the "stealer" today and checked out ignition switches. Yep, mine is effed up. I'm going call them and see what they can do. Maybe I'll have them do a general inspection of the bike since I bought it used. Should I even bother telling them I just bought it or not mention that? Don't want them to try and screw me on the warranty.
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