Ok... I'm a believer.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Northwest
Ok... I'm a believer.
Ok, so bike has been vibrating for a while now.... and actually gotten a little worse I guess. So today after installing the new rear tire, I came back from the test ride and did the whole "loosen motor mounts, run engine for 15 seconds, jack front of engine and shim"....torque back according to spec.
holy crap... I'm amazed..... felt a difference as soon as I fired her up. Took her out, and it's just significantly smoother.
I only needed to shim about an .125 or so, but it made a huge difference
holy crap... I'm amazed..... felt a difference as soon as I fired her up. Took her out, and it's just significantly smoother.
I only needed to shim about an .125 or so, but it made a huge difference
Last edited by archergodwin; Jun 14, 2009 at 09:36 AM.
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From: Out on Deranged
No but I think it's in the under 50$ thread.
Mine has been vibrating more but I'm thinking my fuel mapping may fix alot of that. Once I'm done tweking if the vibrating keeps up I'll see about that fix, Thanks ARcher!
Mine has been vibrating more but I'm thinking my fuel mapping may fix alot of that. Once I'm done tweking if the vibrating keeps up I'll see about that fix, Thanks ARcher!
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From: Northwest
Not in so many words. Towards the end of the 'vehicle alignment' in section 2, there is a paragraph that mentions loosening (not removing) the motor mount bolts, starting the engine and running for 5 seconds ( I ran longer) and then torque back down.
I added the ever popular "while on bike jack, take a second jack and jack the motor up till you can move the front motor mount bolts by hand (after loosening with a tool) back the bolts out and observe the gap between the motor mount and the frame." My gap was about .125. Filled gap with 2 fender washers each bolt and torqued back down.
I did it because I was getting really bad shaking during decel, and some points of excessive vibration at various rpm/gear combinations.
I added the ever popular "while on bike jack, take a second jack and jack the motor up till you can move the front motor mount bolts by hand (after loosening with a tool) back the bolts out and observe the gap between the motor mount and the frame." My gap was about .125. Filled gap with 2 fender washers each bolt and torqued back down.
I did it because I was getting really bad shaking during decel, and some points of excessive vibration at various rpm/gear combinations.
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Elite HDF Member
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From: Northwest
When I installed my TTS and remapped over the Stg.1 map, my bike smoothed out considerably. Didn't realize that the Stg.1 was making the bike run so rough.
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The TTS on my bike now, I would not recommend to someone not well versed in 'wrenching', .... but I love mine.
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From: ga
engine rock more in frame now, instead of through frame?
Ok, so bike has been vibrating for a while now.... and actually gotten a little worse I guess. So today after installing the new rear tire, I came back from the test ride and did the whole "loosen motor mounts, run engine for 15 seconds, jack front of engine and shim"....torque back according to spec.
holy crap... I'm amazed..... felt a difference as soon as I fired her up. Took her out, and it's just significantly smoother.
I only needed to shim about an .125 or so, but it made a huge difference
holy crap... I'm amazed..... felt a difference as soon as I fired her up. Took her out, and it's just significantly smoother.
I only needed to shim about an .125 or so, but it made a huge difference
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Elite HDF Member
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From: Northwest
From idle to 75+, it's smoother the whole way.