When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Ok, so i ordered up the progressive springs. They say i'll have them tomorrow.
What's the difference in the oil weight? 20wt is thicker than 10wt, therefore 20wt is stiffer?
I'm pushin 3 bones, so i probably want they heavier oil. Or would it make sence to use a medium oil and then just use a longer spacer on top of the spring?
So, if i have the tire up off the ground, how would you compress the fork when measuring the amount of oil going in? I have a friends floor jack in my garage, might as well use it before i have to give it back.
Thanks for everyones input.
Looks like a 35mm socket is the ticket. I got a couple bottles of SE performace fork oil. I'll pickup the socket and give it a whirl. Hopefully that top cap doesn't shoot my eye out.
i just use a socket with a rag over it to remove that top cap... cover the tank of course just in case... if you are aound 200 LBS, do a blend of 20W and 15w... with your progressives... i am 220 and with my girl on the bike we are around 320.... she thinks that the handling feels better now with the 15W and 10W blend (same as i did in her bike) that is honestly what i would do if i was you as well if not a full 15W... i think the strait 20W is way to stiff for a daily rider that you are not pushing to KILL the twisties
I used a 1 3/8" six-point socket for the fork caps - it's just a touch too big but works fine. You can get them at NAPA but they are big bucks.
I weigh 3 bills and went from stock fork oil to SE Heavy. it stiffened up the forks a bit but I probably should have also switched over to Progressive springs.
The hardest part for me (working alone) was re-installing the fork caps. You gotta squeeze the springs down and thread the fork cap on at the same time. I tried a couple times with my rachet but gave up and used a nut driver instead.
Is the SE performance 15 or 20? They also make a SE racing blend. And what's the deal with the 35mm socket? Can't find one.
I think the SE is 15wt. not sure what the racing blend is.
I used PJ1 20 wt fork oil which is what the local Indy carries. He also let me use his socket made for removing the fork caps, it is notched and allows you to remove the cap without taking the handle bars off. I already had them off when I went there so that part didn't matter to me.
On another note, I thought the 2006 and newer dynas already come with a progressive type fork spring from the factory. If so, the only reason to replace these springs would be if you are lowering it, correct?
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.