Rear wheel removal
Thread Starter
|
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,579
Likes: 10
From: S.E. MO
Rear wheel removal
My new tire came in today so I need to get the rear wheel off sometime, so they can put the new tire on tomorrow.
Getting ready to look at the service manual but figured you guys might have some tips or things to watch out for.
Getting ready to look at the service manual but figured you guys might have some tips or things to watch out for.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,419
Likes: 1
From: Ashland Ore.
Just keep things in order and don't mix up the spacers. You can count the number of turns you take on the adjusters but IMHO it's not needed. Quite basic actually. You can handle it no problem.
Thread Starter
|
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,579
Likes: 10
From: S.E. MO
Just read through the manual doesnt seem to bad.
Only thing I cant find is how much to torque the rear sprocket bolts. I bought new bolts and a cover to put on while I have the wheel off but for the life of me cant find the info in the service manual.
Only thing I cant find is how much to torque the rear sprocket bolts. I bought new bolts and a cover to put on while I have the wheel off but for the life of me cant find the info in the service manual.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 7
Just keep in mind you may not have to do all of the steps in the manual to get the wheel off and back on. For example, I got mine off without having to touch the spacers or the belt tension so it went right back on already lined up. I also didn't remove my rear caliper - just carefully slid the disc right out of it and made a mental note not the engage the brakes while the wheel was off. I also didn't have to completely remove my belt guard. The top bolt was stuck so I just removed the lower one and gently pushed it out of the way.
You will likely have to "encourage" the axle out with some significant force unless it was greased very well the last time it was installed. Don't be afraid to do what is necessary but be careful not to damage it or the bike. Slather it with anti-sieze before putting it back in and it will go back in like butter and come out easier next time.
I assume you are using a lift? If so, be sure to support both the front and back tires so it doesn't get away from you when you drop the swingarm or remove the weight from the rear. If you have rear passenger pegs, be careful that the right side one doesn't hit your pipes when you drop the swingarm. Removing it before getting started might save you some damage.
Oh, and you will need to re-torque your lower shock bolts when you reinstall as well. Specs should be in the manual but there is also an active post with the torque specs in it.
If you do a search of the dyna forum by my name, you should find a post or two on this subject and exactly how I did mine a while back. I was scared to death at the time and was afraid I'd never get it completely off or back together. But it was nowhere near as bad as I thought. Good luck.
You will likely have to "encourage" the axle out with some significant force unless it was greased very well the last time it was installed. Don't be afraid to do what is necessary but be careful not to damage it or the bike. Slather it with anti-sieze before putting it back in and it will go back in like butter and come out easier next time.
I assume you are using a lift? If so, be sure to support both the front and back tires so it doesn't get away from you when you drop the swingarm or remove the weight from the rear. If you have rear passenger pegs, be careful that the right side one doesn't hit your pipes when you drop the swingarm. Removing it before getting started might save you some damage.
Oh, and you will need to re-torque your lower shock bolts when you reinstall as well. Specs should be in the manual but there is also an active post with the torque specs in it.
If you do a search of the dyna forum by my name, you should find a post or two on this subject and exactly how I did mine a while back. I was scared to death at the time and was afraid I'd never get it completely off or back together. But it was nowhere near as bad as I thought. Good luck.
watch your spacers... if this is the first time you have taken it off be ready for a fight! get some good anti seaze for when you put it back on... if it gets stuck get a punch that will fit in the divit in the end of the axel and not flare it out when you smack it... also with the pipes you have it sometimes gets a bit easier if you flip the axel when you install it to tighen it down... your choice
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 16
From: Norfolk, VA
Joe, why do you say watch the spacers? I just did this a while ago and it seemed to me to be pretty obvious where they go, but now you have me thinking I missed something.
The only advice I can offer is make sure the bike is strapped securely to the jack before you start smacking the crap out of the axle.
The only advice I can offer is make sure the bike is strapped securely to the jack before you start smacking the crap out of the axle.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,579
Likes: 10
From: S.E. MO
Got it off without any difficulties.
I dont have a lift so I used the combination of the homemade lift for the front I made when I did my chrome sliders and a floor jack.
Only thing I didnt do was remove the lower shock bolts. Maybe I will have to to get it back on but didnt see why it was required so did it without doing it. (I have 812's on and have the caps glued in place so didnt wont to remove unless I had to) I think having 2 seperate lifts saved me from doing it. I was able to raise and lower the back as needed with the floor jack. Not sure?
Have to get some locktite (all out) so I can put my sprocket cover on now.
I dont have a lift so I used the combination of the homemade lift for the front I made when I did my chrome sliders and a floor jack.
Only thing I didnt do was remove the lower shock bolts. Maybe I will have to to get it back on but didnt see why it was required so did it without doing it. (I have 812's on and have the caps glued in place so didnt wont to remove unless I had to) I think having 2 seperate lifts saved me from doing it. I was able to raise and lower the back as needed with the floor jack. Not sure?
Have to get some locktite (all out) so I can put my sprocket cover on now.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
The Best and Worst Harley-Davidson Moves of 2025
Verdad Gallardo
Road Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 941
Likes: 27
From:
I also didn't remove my rear caliper - just carefully slid the disc right out of it and made a mental note not the engage the brakes while the wheel was off. I also didn't have to completely remove my belt guard. The top bolt was stuck so I just removed the lower one and gently pushed it out of the way.
You will likely have to "encourage" the axle out with some significant force unless it was greased very well the last time it was installed. Don't be afraid to do what is necessary but be careful not to damage it or the bike. Slather it with anti-sieze before putting it back in and it will go back in like butter and come out easier next time.
If you have rear passenger pegs, be careful that the right side one doesn't hit your pipes when you drop the swingarm. Removing it before getting started might save you some damage.
Oh, and you will need to re-torque your lower shock bolts when you reinstall as well. Specs should be in the manual but there is also an active post with the torque specs in it.
Oh, and you will need to re-torque your lower shock bolts when you reinstall as well. Specs should be in the manual but there is also an active post with the torque specs in it.
The alignment proceedure in the manual shows using a wire and the hole in the swing arm to measure center of axle on each side to align. I have found in my experience that the axle tightened it usually reads aligned. I have started aligning by watching the belt on the rear pulley. I will semi tighten axle when belt is tensioned correctly so is snug but still able to adjust it. I then free spin the wheel if belt is riding on left side I slide it over to the right, if it slides back to the left I adjust till belt rides without swapping sides when free turned. Has worked well for me anyway.
if you spacers are nt on the right side then you will have issues with brake drag and belt wear, mainly you have to worry about this on the front wheel on our scoots more than the rear