Tools needed for forward controls installation
ORIGINAL: silverbullet2005
Leaving it in there is just plain stupid and anyone that does that to a Harley should be shot and forced to ride a jap bike.
silverbullet2005,
I didn't leave mine in, and I don't mind riding a V-Max. Read post #9 & #16 of the below link, then tell me how much it hurts.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1504728/tm.htm
Sorry this is so long.
Doing that is fine if you want to hack off the original shaft and do it the shadetree way. I like to keep all my original parts so that if I ever need to resort back to them they are in usable condition. also if I ever sell the bike I have the original parts to reinstall or give to the new owner. I am just the type of person that takes pride in doing the job the correct way the first time.
To be honest the installation of the kit isn't hard at all if you buy or make the locking tool. I made my tool for free at work and the rest of the job went real smooth. I would even suggest making the locking tool out of some hard plastic or composite material such as a cutting board or something of that nature. real simple to do, just cut a piece that's 7.5" x 2" then cut out a notch from the right lower that is 2" long by 1/2" wide which is to go around the flywheel. It did not seem to take much to lock the sprockets together.
The forward control kit comes with all the gaskets and seals so why not take the time to do it right and get to know your bike at the same time? The only thing I would do differently the next time is to have the service manual at hand before starting the job. I went up to the dealer to read their shops service manual and write down torque specs. if you have basic tools such as torx drivers and allen head sockets along witheveryday socket sets then you should be in ok shape. If you don't own a 1/2" and 3/8" torque wrench then buy them or borrow them from a buddy cuz your gonna need them. the compensator sprocket bolt is a 13/16 socket (normal lefty loosy/righty tighty) and the clutch hub is a 30mm socket (clockwise to loosen, counter clockwise to tighten)
I did not intend to poke at anyone who has left the shaft in or hack the shaft off, I just stated my opinion that we as Harley owners should take pride in our machines and our work. if you can afford to take your bikes to the dealer to have them do the work great but most of us can't so we do the work ourselves and it gives us that warm fuzzy feeling knowing we did the work and it got done right.
Doing that is fine if you want to hack off the original shaft and do it the shadetree way. I like to keep all my original parts so that if I ever need to resort back to them they are in usable condition. also if I ever sell the bike I have the original parts to reinstall or give to the new owner. I am just the type of person that takes pride in doing the job the correct way the first time.
To be honest the installation of the kit isn't hard at all if you buy or make the locking tool. I made my tool for free at work and the rest of the job went real smooth. I would even suggest making the locking tool out of some hard plastic or composite material such as a cutting board or something of that nature. real simple to do, just cut a piece that's 7.5" x 2" then cut out a notch from the right lower that is 2" long by 1/2" wide which is to go around the flywheel. It did not seem to take much to lock the sprockets together.
The forward control kit comes with all the gaskets and seals so why not take the time to do it right and get to know your bike at the same time? The only thing I would do differently the next time is to have the service manual at hand before starting the job. I went up to the dealer to read their shops service manual and write down torque specs. if you have basic tools such as torx drivers and allen head sockets along witheveryday socket sets then you should be in ok shape. If you don't own a 1/2" and 3/8" torque wrench then buy them or borrow them from a buddy cuz your gonna need them. the compensator sprocket bolt is a 13/16 socket (normal lefty loosy/righty tighty) and the clutch hub is a 30mm socket (clockwise to loosen, counter clockwise to tighten)
I did not intend to poke at anyone who has left the shaft in or hack the shaft off, I just stated my opinion that we as Harley owners should take pride in our machines and our work. if you can afford to take your bikes to the dealer to have them do the work great but most of us can't so we do the work ourselves and it gives us that warm fuzzy feeling knowing we did the work and it got done right.
Hmmmmm,..........I'm confused....Is the Harley way the right way, or is your way the right way? I know my way is the easy way because I got the same result without tearing the primary apart.
Droophas a 2005 FXDI and the 2005 Harley kit comes with a bracket to bolt down the original shift shaft lever, and it does not come with any gaskets or seals,is that the wrong way to do it?
Just my opinion, but it seems like you like to slam people. Here's one, have you ever heard the term "Working smarter not harder"?
Droophas a 2005 FXDI and the 2005 Harley kit comes with a bracket to bolt down the original shift shaft lever, and it does not come with any gaskets or seals,is that the wrong way to do it?
Just my opinion, but it seems like you like to slam people. Here's one, have you ever heard the term "Working smarter not harder"?
to the last to posts.
I never said my way was the right way I said there is a right way and a shadetree way. I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft so I spent the extra time and energy to do it the correct way. sure I've heard the term work smarter not harder but in this case cutting the shaft or lodging it behind something and leaving it in is just plain being lazy and hacking up good parts. I'm not trying to SLAM people as one of you stated, I just feel that the job should be done correctly without having to cut or hack up parts in the process. once again I'm sorry if I SLAMMED or offended anyone with my comments, that was not my intentions.
I never said my way was the right way I said there is a right way and a shadetree way. I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft so I spent the extra time and energy to do it the correct way. sure I've heard the term work smarter not harder but in this case cutting the shaft or lodging it behind something and leaving it in is just plain being lazy and hacking up good parts. I'm not trying to SLAM people as one of you stated, I just feel that the job should be done correctly without having to cut or hack up parts in the process. once again I'm sorry if I SLAMMED or offended anyone with my comments, that was not my intentions.
ORIGINAL: silverbullet2005
to the last to posts.
I never said my way was the right way
I said there is a right way and a shadetree way.
I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft
so I spent the extra time and energy to do it
the correct way.
to the last to posts.
I never said my way was the right way
I said there is a right way and a shadetree way.
I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft
so I spent the extra time and energy to do it
the correct way.
Quoting you from the first post:
"Doing that is fine if you want to hack off the original shaft and do it the shadetree way.
I like to keep all my original parts so that if I ever need to resort back
to them they are in usable condition.
also if I ever sell the bike I have the original parts to reinstall or give to the new owner.
I am just the type of person that takes pride in doing the job
the correct way the first time."
Sawing off that $25shaft ain't that bigga deal.
Buy a new one (part # 34621-06) and put it aside to
pass along when you sell the machine.
I am a firm believer in the mid mount controls,
so I've never seen the forward control kit.
From what you say it does come with all the gaskets and seals,
including the inner primary to crankcase 34934-06,
and the 5 sealing bolts #786. Right??
you -
"plain being lazy and hacking up good parts.
I'm not trying to SLAM people as one of you stated,
I just feel that the job should be done correctly
without having to cut or hack up parts in the process"
You're not typing to kindergardners here.
You did say your way was the right way,
I don't necessarily agree.
mud
ORIGINAL: silverbullet2005
to the last to posts.
I never said my way was the right way I said there is a right way and a shadetree way. I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft so I spent the extra time and energy to do it the correct way. sure I've heard the term work smarter not harder but in this case cutting the shaft or lodging it behind something and leaving it in is just plain being lazy and hacking up good parts. I'm not trying to SLAM people as one of you stated, I just feel that the job should be done correctly without having to cut or hack up parts in the process. once again I'm sorry if I SLAMMED or offended anyone with my comments, that was not my intentions.
to the last to posts.
I never said my way was the right way I said there is a right way and a shadetree way. I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft so I spent the extra time and energy to do it the correct way. sure I've heard the term work smarter not harder but in this case cutting the shaft or lodging it behind something and leaving it in is just plain being lazy and hacking up good parts. I'm not trying to SLAM people as one of you stated, I just feel that the job should be done correctly without having to cut or hack up parts in the process. once again I'm sorry if I SLAMMED or offended anyone with my comments, that was not my intentions.
I just have to add this in addition to my previous post.
Quoting you from another thread, titled somethin like
I want really loud exhaust
silverbullet2005 -
quote -
I did it the cheap way for now until I can afford a new exhaust.
I used a 2" hole saw and cut through the welds at the muffler tip
to cut out the baffles on the stock mufflers.
sounds great!!!
remove exhaust muffler bracket and both mufflers, do one at a time obviously.
put the muffler in a vise where the mounting bracket goes.
use a 2" hole saw and start drilling, this will cut through the weld that holds the baffle in.
once through stick something long down the muffler from the back side
and the baffle will fall on thr ground.
shake out shavings and reinstall mufflers,
enjoy the loudness! -
end quote
Quoting you from another thread, titled somethin like
I want really loud exhaust
silverbullet2005 -
quote -
I did it the cheap way for now until I can afford a new exhaust.
I used a 2" hole saw and cut through the welds at the muffler tip
to cut out the baffles on the stock mufflers.
sounds great!!!
remove exhaust muffler bracket and both mufflers, do one at a time obviously.
put the muffler in a vise where the mounting bracket goes.
use a 2" hole saw and start drilling, this will cut through the weld that holds the baffle in.
once through stick something long down the muffler from the back side
and the baffle will fall on thr ground.
shake out shavings and reinstall mufflers,
enjoy the loudness! -
end quote
silverbullet2005
to the last to posts.
I never said my way was the right way I said there is a right way and a shadetree way. I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft so I spent the extra time and energy to do it the correct way. sure I've heard the term work smarter not harder but in this case cutting the shaft or lodging it behind something and leaving it in is just plain being lazy and hacking up good parts. I'm not trying to SLAM people as one of you stated, I just feel that the job should be done correctly without having to cut or hack up parts in the process. once again I'm sorry if I SLAMMED or offended anyone with my comments, that was not my intentions.
to the last to posts.
I never said my way was the right way I said there is a right way and a shadetree way. I did not want to cut my stock shifter shaft so I spent the extra time and energy to do it the correct way. sure I've heard the term work smarter not harder but in this case cutting the shaft or lodging it behind something and leaving it in is just plain being lazy and hacking up good parts. I'm not trying to SLAM people as one of you stated, I just feel that the job should be done correctly without having to cut or hack up parts in the process. once again I'm sorry if I SLAMMED or offended anyone with my comments, that was not my intentions.
Mud, thanks for your comments and the find of that defining other post.
Now I don't have to feel so lazy and can sit tall and proud in the saddle while the hypocrites slide off their high horses.
Now I don't have to feel so lazy and can sit tall and proud in the saddle while the hypocrites slide off their high horses.
YESI cut out the baffles in the stock mufflers but I'm still using the mufflers!!! that has nothing to do with the forward control installation so keep them seperated. You guys talk about me slamming others if that is what you wanna call it but in all reality those of you that are replying are the ones trying to slam me.
WS6 formula is the one who started the slamming. In my second post I mearly stated that the directions and service manual call for removing the primary and chaincase housing to remove shifter shaft and give ample room to remove and install new transmission shifter shaft. I've said I was sorry for affending anyone and I am but for those of you who don't want to accept that I can't help the way you feel.
WS6 formula is the one who started the slamming. In my second post I mearly stated that the directions and service manual call for removing the primary and chaincase housing to remove shifter shaft and give ample room to remove and install new transmission shifter shaft. I've said I was sorry for affending anyone and I am but for those of you who don't want to accept that I can't help the way you feel.
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