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i removed the baff from my low rider runs great plugs look good after the 25deg. inj. my brother has high flow and dl stock pipes they ran the same to 100mph then much to my suprise i pulled him at 115mph when we hit 6th .mine runs good enough fo me im saven $$ for some other stuff.
I just took this thing out for a lunchtime ride. I don't usually get on this thing too hard.
I decided to give it hell from a dead start. It almost pulled the front wheel off
the ground when I hit second gear. It is definitely running better! If the plugs look
good tonight I'm leaving it alone. I'll spend my $$ on other stuff also.
Well you can prob run it for a while with just the exhaust, but I would strongly recommend that you spend the extra $$$ and get the SERT. It is by far the best EFI tuning device on the market, "in my opinion". It will utilize the O2 sensors and has many more available adjustments than any of the others on the market, and you can do the tuning yourself from your PC, and if you have a laptop you can even run the bike with it hooked up in the data mode. My bike has really come alive since I installed the SERT. While it is kinda pricy,.... it is definately worth the extra $$$.
You know, the SERT is $369 discounted online. The Power commander and the latest version of the TFI getting up there in price. The SERT is far more powerfull then either for about $100 more. The diagnistic mode alone is worth that and 'the no installation required' aspect drives the point home. Best money I've spent so far and it's there for any change I might make in the future (i.e. 1550, pipes, cams etc).
Don't you have to get the dealer to do a download as well with the SERT?
My dealer says they only use power commanders. I definitely don't want that
device.
Well for what it's worth, let me warn everyone that if you remove spark plugs from a hot engine, you are taking a chance of damaging the threads. Unless you have pre lubed them up with a good anti seize grease. I work in a machine shop, and have seen plenty of aluminum heads come through with stripped threads. Unless you have a pan or a shovel, then your heads are probably aluminum.
Well for what it's worth, let me warn everyone that if you remove spark plugs from a hot engine, you are taking a chance of damaging the threads. Unless you have pre lubed them up with a good anti seize grease. I work in a machine shop, and have seen plenty of aluminum heads come through with stripped threads. Unless you have a pan or a shovel, then your heads are probably aluminum.
No,.... If you get the SERT you do not have to get the dealer to download anything. And it can seem somewhat overwhelming with all the adjustment points on the SERT program, but its not as difficult as it seems just be sure and read and print up the complete instruction manual from the CD with the SERT, and even my dealer stated that the program keeps you from making adjustments that would harm your engine. Also,....One other good thing is that there are members on this forum who have already made up some MAPS that can give you a good starting point and then you can tweek it to your specific bike. JamieWG on this forum helped me tremendously, and my bike runs great.
Sheesh! I guess we know who the tuners are on this forum. Better trade in those hog's for vespa's or something, might burn your hands or get grease on your shirt.
JIM, I have a Daytona twin scan 88+/Wego comming in this week that will be the finishing touch on tuning the closed loop system. This kit will populate the VE tables perfectly to the bike, have a better understanding of the closed loop bias table and its effects on the mixture in closed loop mode. Basically, put the finishing touches and eliminate the remaining guess work on tuning the closed loop system. This will be the last key to working out the ECU on these bikes.
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