performance Clutch
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,870
Likes: 498
From: Alberta
Thanks for the reply; I'll put auto primary tensioner on the list.
Gonna take the top end off and do a detailed inspection for wear...re-ring or overbore as required, freshen up heads as required...see what we find.
If the crank looks good; then she's back together, hopefully for another couple of years of summer road fun...if the crank needs attention; then probably go back together as a 113.
Gonna take the top end off and do a detailed inspection for wear...re-ring or overbore as required, freshen up heads as required...see what we find.
If the crank looks good; then she's back together, hopefully for another couple of years of summer road fun...if the crank needs attention; then probably go back together as a 113.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,223
From: the 50s & the 60s
Thanks for the reply; I'll put auto primary tensioner on the list.
Gonna take the top end off and do a detailed inspection for wear...re-ring or overbore as required, freshen up heads as required...see what we find.
If the crank looks good; then she's back together, hopefully for another couple of years of summer road fun...if the crank needs attention; then probably go back together as a 113.
Gonna take the top end off and do a detailed inspection for wear...re-ring or overbore as required, freshen up heads as required...see what we find.
If the crank looks good; then she's back together, hopefully for another couple of years of summer road fun...if the crank needs attention; then probably go back together as a 113.
.
sounds like an excellent plan.....
a couple questions....
what size now??
compression??
how many miles on this motor??
I've been very satisfied with my motors. this one went from 88/95/121
DarkHorse (Hoban Bros) did my lower end. quality folks to deal with in every respect.
I'll be interested to hear/see results of your inspection....
.
.
Last edited by mud; Jun 25, 2010 at 10:38 PM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,870
Likes: 498
From: Alberta
Right you are; HQ heads and 033G cams
SE/Jims 4 3/8 crank = 103
CP pistons are supposed to have been set at 10.6:1 (by HQ)
About 30000 miles; over half 2-up touring.....
5th HQ build between me and my friends; all good
We'll see what we find in a couple of months and report back for sure.
SE/Jims 4 3/8 crank = 103
CP pistons are supposed to have been set at 10.6:1 (by HQ)
About 30000 miles; over half 2-up touring.....
5th HQ build between me and my friends; all good
We'll see what we find in a couple of months and report back for sure.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 577
Likes: 4
I use the Rekluse torqdrive. Much easier pull, yet tightens up as you need it. Easy install
See http://www.marcparnes.com/, scroll down a bit.
greg
See http://www.marcparnes.com/, scroll down a bit.
greg
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 918
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, Canada
I use the Rekluse torqdrive. Much easier pull, yet tightens up as you need it. Easy install
See http://www.marcparnes.com/, scroll down a bit.
greg
See http://www.marcparnes.com/, scroll down a bit.
greg
Ive read about both types and im leaning towards the Rekluse.
There is no need for spacing the derby as well as easy pull no matter what rpm.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
For a simple clutch fix for any engine upgrade, just get the AIM variable pressure clutch for $245. My bike had just over 9,000 miles before I built it to 107". An older Harley guy at the indie shop gave me a brochure for AIM High Performance Products and told me that sooner or later I would need to upgrade my clutch and strongly suggested the AIM, even telling me which one to buy.
After my first break-in ride of just 20 miles, I came home and smelled burnt clutch, now I knew why the bike was stalling when I slowed down to stops and why it was being a bit slow to get going.
I ordered the AIM VPC, put it in, and took it for a similar spin. The bike hooked up and never came close to stalling at low RPM stops and I did several stops and guick accelerations. Mind you, I was accelerating and braking hard both times in similar conditions, never getting above 4th gear and never cruising, I was either on the gas hard or compression braking on a lonely, twisty, country road.
The AIM variable pressure clutch was easy for me to install, saved my stock clutch and needs less effort to engage. It just works...The harder you launch or shift, the harder it grabs.
Mudd showed a pic of it a few posts up. It's a weighted lock up system that uses centrifugal force to push against the pressure plate. The one I used was the VP84T with the stock springs.
I'd consider this upgrade before spending more money on any other clutch upgrade. That Harley guy at the indie knew what he was talking about, he had one for his bike and was installing one for a customer as we were speaking.
After my first break-in ride of just 20 miles, I came home and smelled burnt clutch, now I knew why the bike was stalling when I slowed down to stops and why it was being a bit slow to get going.
I ordered the AIM VPC, put it in, and took it for a similar spin. The bike hooked up and never came close to stalling at low RPM stops and I did several stops and guick accelerations. Mind you, I was accelerating and braking hard both times in similar conditions, never getting above 4th gear and never cruising, I was either on the gas hard or compression braking on a lonely, twisty, country road.
The AIM variable pressure clutch was easy for me to install, saved my stock clutch and needs less effort to engage. It just works...The harder you launch or shift, the harder it grabs.
Mudd showed a pic of it a few posts up. It's a weighted lock up system that uses centrifugal force to push against the pressure plate. The one I used was the VP84T with the stock springs.
I'd consider this upgrade before spending more money on any other clutch upgrade. That Harley guy at the indie knew what he was talking about, he had one for his bike and was installing one for a customer as we were speaking.
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 285
Likes: 2
From: san jose, ca
100,000 plus
new frictions and steels after 100,000 miles, drag strip and Bonneville.
2 finger pull with NO SLIP, easy neutral.
rivera pro, e z pull, rivera lock up unit, Fisher Harmonic Balancer, 1 cup of ATF type F, ride it.
2 finger pull with NO SLIP, easy neutral.
rivera pro, e z pull, rivera lock up unit, Fisher Harmonic Balancer, 1 cup of ATF type F, ride it.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 705
From: DFW
Approximate cost?