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I use Mobil 1 synthetic 20-50 for V-twin. NEVER use automotive oils! I also use the Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil for the primary. The synthetic has a higher temperature rating and keeps my engine a little cooler.
+2 on find another dealer. This guy is a douchebag.
For now, if it were me, I would look at the receipt and see what they originally used in the engine so you don't mix oils, other than that, as others have said, your owners manual specifies what oils to use and you will get a thousand opinions about what is best. Form your own. Then go back to that dealer and let him know you will never be back and why, that is if you want to do him a favor so that he MIGHT change his policy. Man I hate hearing garbage like that.
Tomcat has good info except the part about the torque wrench. Most if not all the small fasteners around the engine including primary case, transmission end case and the derby cover are in INCH lbs. not Ft/lbs. An example is "derby cover screws are tightened to 84-108 in. lbs". If you use FT. lbs you'll be up the creek. There are a lot of discussions about what type of oil to use but the viscosity to use is the recommended 20w50.
Ya, that's why I mentioned Newton meters. The torque figures in my manual (particularly the derby cover bolts) list values for both in/lbs and newton meters. Does bring up a great point though - pay close attention to those torque values and don't mix up the ft/lbs vs. in/lbs listed!
2.5 quarts for the oil change (3 is for a totally dry motor)
also when doing the filter, i pour some oil in the new filter and let it soak in prior to installing it.
and beware the $hit torx bolts on the derby cover when doing primary fluid, they strip like warm butter. i ended up swapping mine out with stainless allen heads.
FWIW i use the harley synthetic too , as someone said earlier, same fluid in all 3 resivoirs. supposedly it runs the motors cooler, but i havent tested that on this bike with any sort of temp guage.
I personally see no advantage to using 12.00 syn oil. Dino has worked for years and never been a problem. It is more about changing it regularily then anything else. Just an opinion and I am sure there will be disagreement. I use 20/50 HD in the crankcase, Formula + in the primary and mobil1 75/90 syn gear oil in the tranny. But the manual 60.00 at HD it will pay for itself.
Tomcat has good info except the part about the torque wrench. Most if not all the small fasteners around the engine including primary case, transmission end case and the derby cover are in INCH lbs. not Ft/lbs. An example is "derby cover screws are tightened to 84-108 in. lbs". If you use FT. lbs you'll be up the creek. There are a lot of discussions about what type of oil to use but the viscosity to use is the recommended 20w50.
Umm, well, DUH.... a bit of cypherin like Jethro (naught from naught is naught)
1 foot pounds = 12 inch pound force hence divide inch pounds by 12 to get foot pounds.
You can find that conversion on the Torque conversion page here:
2.5 quarts for the oil change (3 is for a totally dry motor)
also when doing the filter, i pour some oil in the new filter and let it soak in prior to installing it.
and beware the $hit torx bolts on the derby cover when doing primary fluid, they strip like warm butter. i ended up swapping mine out with stainless allen heads.
FWIW i use the harley synthetic too , as someone said earlier, same fluid in all 3 resivoirs. supposedly it runs the motors cooler, but i havent tested that on this bike with any sort of temp guage.
Where do I get these stainless allen heads...and what do I ask for..(length..dia.. and tpi)
-----------------
Bill
If your in a hot climate the synthetic runs cooler, I use AMSOIL, great stuff, Mobil One would be my next choice. Personal choice by I us 75/90w gear oil in the prmiary chain case. You would not put gear oil in your engine, so why would you put engine oil in your primary chain case?
Quote:
Originally Posted by billycouldride i have a 09 FXDC too.
2.5 quarts for the oil change (3 is for a totally dry motor)
also when doing the filter, i pour some oil in the new filter and let it soak in prior to installing it.
and beware the $hit torx bolts on the derby cover when doing primary fluid, they strip like warm butter. i ended up swapping mine out with stainless allen heads.
FWIW i use the harley synthetic too , as someone said earlier, same fluid in all 3 resivoirs. supposedly it runs the motors cooler, but i havent tested that on this bike with any sort of temp guage.
Where do I get these stainless allen heads...and what do I ask for..(length..dia.. and tpi)
You can get them at any "good" hardware store. They're 1/4 - 5/8ths long with a 20 TPI thread count.
Just my .02 - a torx head fastener actually is stronger than an allen head in terms of stripping out the head. I think where most people have problems is that for some reason they choose to use a T27 torx head on the derby covers and most 'sets' of torx drivers come with a T25 and a T30 so they use the T25 because it's the one that "fits".
Good Luck! (and enjoy doing the maintenance, a few beers slowly consumed and a football game on the tv . . . life doesn't get much better than that in my book)
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