wet sanding for prep
I am sure you where just busting *****, but never the less...
actually he was in charge of the store... and has never steared me wrong in any of my paint jobs. I trust everything that MidnitEvil says when it comes to paint, he knows his stuff there is no question about that. In fact he is my go to guy when i have liquid paint questions...
actually he was in charge of the store... and has never steared me wrong in any of my paint jobs. I trust everything that MidnitEvil says when it comes to paint, he knows his stuff there is no question about that. In fact he is my go to guy when i have liquid paint questions...
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Well now it seems we have a little difference of opinion about using a scuff pad or 600 grit paper.I appreciate all of the coments and would like some more. But so far I'm going with the pad. After all a guy that worked with paint for a living for 6 years must know somthin right?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,639
Likes: 2
From: Scottsboro
+1 on the scuff pad but you also need to use the compound also JMHO
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 1
From: Oak Park, IL
If you are going to use the pad, make sure you wash the tins first to get the wax off. And make sure you use a lot of water with those pads, otherwise you will start to see the old clearcoat start to ball up on there. This will leave bigger scratches then 600!
As for experiance, I made a living painting bikes and hot rods back in the early '80s. I can post up picks of some of my work if you like. ( The red bikes in my avatar and sig are examples. ) But paint has changed A LOT since then, so go with what you think will work for you.
Good luck, it is a gas to be able to say you did it yourself.
As for experiance, I made a living painting bikes and hot rods back in the early '80s. I can post up picks of some of my work if you like. ( The red bikes in my avatar and sig are examples. ) But paint has changed A LOT since then, so go with what you think will work for you.
Good luck, it is a gas to be able to say you did it yourself.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,235
Likes: 65
From: Joliet, Illinois
Doom... you're spot on with the 600 actually. Depends on the clear you're using. a *lot* of technology changes in clear since the 80's. Hell, a lot has changed since 2000. Some of the new clears out there are amazing. The cheap clears now are 100 times better than the top line clears from the late 90's.
There are even some clears on the market where 600 grit to scuff clear, or wet sanding the base coat is fine. But, there are some where it's not - where it will cause adhesion issues. You'll end up with a peeler for sure. Gray pad & scuff compound is a safe bet for any of the clears out there.
A pro painter knows what he's using, knows what he can or can't do, what he can get away with. With a non-pro, I always go with the safe bet and recommend what works across the board.
JRK - thanks for the support, but, I always just consider the source. Some kid sitting at his computer in between rounds of Call of Duty doesn't carry a lot of weight with me. I wouldn't even have justified his inane comment with a response.
There are even some clears on the market where 600 grit to scuff clear, or wet sanding the base coat is fine. But, there are some where it's not - where it will cause adhesion issues. You'll end up with a peeler for sure. Gray pad & scuff compound is a safe bet for any of the clears out there.
A pro painter knows what he's using, knows what he can or can't do, what he can get away with. With a non-pro, I always go with the safe bet and recommend what works across the board.
JRK - thanks for the support, but, I always just consider the source. Some kid sitting at his computer in between rounds of Call of Duty doesn't carry a lot of weight with me. I wouldn't even have justified his inane comment with a response.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 1
From: Oak Park, IL
Best, -Harry
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,235
Likes: 65
From: Joliet, Illinois
Feel free to ask me whatever any time. I love painting. I love custom paint. Always happy to talk about it.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
So what about these tins with the decals and stickers/pinstripes in them?
Now way a scuff pad is going to make a smooth surface to build on...right?
Now way a scuff pad is going to make a smooth surface to build on...right?
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they need to be removed... whenever i run into something like that, i strip the tank to bare metal... if not it never looks right even with buildable primer and sanding... whenever it is under the clear we take it down to bare metal and start over... Midnight may know of a trick but i do not. we have even tried to heat the area, use a razor and remove the decal frm under the clear, then sand it smooth scuff and shoot, and got great results but could still make out where the decals where from some angles... we tore down to bare metal and shot again... I run into this on alot of rocket tanks.
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Since I'm doing the job myself and it's my first time I'm going to use a single stage urethane paint called Hot-Rod Flatz its cheap so if I screw up it wont cost me an arm n-leg going with gunsmoke metallic.Anyone ever used this paint process?Thanks to everyone for the help. Keep coments and opinions coming! GMH-blackpullet