Did something bad ... bolt broke off
Found this screw extraction video clip at YouTube. It should give you an idea how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_esPGva76I
Good luck getting that snapped bolt out, Jerry!
FXD2003Rider
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_esPGva76I
Good luck getting that snapped bolt out, Jerry!
FXD2003Rider
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
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I can get pics ... yes blue locktite and it has been there for weeks as I put them in a while back, but didn't have a torque wrench - biz trips, vacation ... blah blah blah ... three weeks later I'm trying to tourque them properly and break the first one off. It is about an inch inside the bike and the inner primary is between the broken part and where the threads start in the hole.
what i would do is remove the inner and outter primary and see if i can get a vice grip on it... you are going to need to break up that loc tite before you do ANYTHING! 2 things can do this, a penetration oil (liquid wrench or something like that) *WD40 is not a pen oil it is water displacement and will not work*
heat will also do this if you have a heat gun or torch
if you remove that and there is a nub there you can get a vice trip on it and spin it out, but i would let that liquid wrench work its majic for at lest 24hrs.
if not you are going to need an impact screw remover, they work great! i have snapped prob 25 ez outs and they make the job so much harder when they snap! so i never use them any more. snap some pics lets see what you got over there and we can figure it out from there bud
heat will also do this if you have a heat gun or torch
if you remove that and there is a nub there you can get a vice trip on it and spin it out, but i would let that liquid wrench work its majic for at lest 24hrs.
if not you are going to need an impact screw remover, they work great! i have snapped prob 25 ez outs and they make the job so much harder when they snap! so i never use them any more. snap some pics lets see what you got over there and we can figure it out from there bud
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 156
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what i would do is remove the inner and outter primary and see if i can get a vice grip on it... you are going to need to break up that loc tite before you do ANYTHING! 2 things can do this, a penetration oil (liquid wrench or something like that) *WD40 is not a pen oil it is water displacement and will not work*
heat will also do this if you have a heat gun or torch
if you remove that and there is a nub there you can get a vice trip on it and spin it out, but i would let that liquid wrench work its majic for at lest 24hrs.
if not you are going to need an impact screw remover, they work great! i have snapped prob 25 ez outs and they make the job so much harder when they snap! so i never use them any more. snap some pics lets see what you got over there and we can figure it out from there bud
heat will also do this if you have a heat gun or torch
if you remove that and there is a nub there you can get a vice trip on it and spin it out, but i would let that liquid wrench work its majic for at lest 24hrs.
if not you are going to need an impact screw remover, they work great! i have snapped prob 25 ez outs and they make the job so much harder when they snap! so i never use them any more. snap some pics lets see what you got over there and we can figure it out from there bud
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,166
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From: la
I've seen bolts breaking inside the threads coming out but going in they usually break flush or leave enough sticking out to grab. I think when you pull the inner primary you will see enough to grab, they don't go in much more than an inch anyway.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: River City Western Canada
I can get pics ... yes blue locktite and it has been there for weeks as I put them in a while back, but didn't have a torque wrench - biz trips, vacation ... blah blah blah ... three weeks later I'm trying to tourque them properly and break the first one off. It is about an inch inside the bike and the inner primary is between the broken part and where the threads start in the hole.
I see this as the cause of your problem or you had the wrong setting on the wrench or both.
Thread Starter
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Got everything back together
This has been a long haul mostly do to my travel schedule ... lessons learned:
1. This is a VERY doable project by anyone w/ the ambition.
2. Now that I've done it once, I'm pretty sure I could do the whole thing in one day if I had all the parts ahead of time.
3. Getting the inner race off - screw trying to use some kind of puller ... I got a small cutting wheel for my dremel ... cut a groove VERY CAREFULLY in it ... when it was thin enough I just put a screw driver in the groove and twisted ... heard a little "crack" and it was loose enough to pry off.
4. VERY IMPORTANT ... if you have the 06 Bob w/ the funky 2 part rotor I would take it appart and change it now before it is too late. When you get the new one part "welded" rotor you have to put it on before you put on the inner primary because it won't slip past the "outer lip" of the inner primary w/ it installed ... this is not how the shop manual says to do it.
5. NOT impressed w/ the MoCo on this ... they obviously knew they had a problem w/ that part or they would not have redesigned it as a welded piece ... they should have stood behind their product and replaced at least the parts for free.
1. This is a VERY doable project by anyone w/ the ambition.
2. Now that I've done it once, I'm pretty sure I could do the whole thing in one day if I had all the parts ahead of time.
3. Getting the inner race off - screw trying to use some kind of puller ... I got a small cutting wheel for my dremel ... cut a groove VERY CAREFULLY in it ... when it was thin enough I just put a screw driver in the groove and twisted ... heard a little "crack" and it was loose enough to pry off.
4. VERY IMPORTANT ... if you have the 06 Bob w/ the funky 2 part rotor I would take it appart and change it now before it is too late. When you get the new one part "welded" rotor you have to put it on before you put on the inner primary because it won't slip past the "outer lip" of the inner primary w/ it installed ... this is not how the shop manual says to do it.
5. NOT impressed w/ the MoCo on this ... they obviously knew they had a problem w/ that part or they would not have redesigned it as a welded piece ... they should have stood behind their product and replaced at least the parts for free.
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From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
Just for future reference, I saw magic happen by one of my mechanics at Boeing many years ago. I'd snapped a 5/16 bolt on an electric motor I was swapping out. Being an Elect.Tech., I didn't pack the kind of tools I thought would be needed (centerpunch, drill, EZ-outs). Went back to our shop and explained my situation to Dave. He grabbed an extension cord & an electric engraving pencil, and gave me a look that said, "Lead the way".
All the way to the wing riveter, I was wondering if he was going to use it to make a precise indentation for a centerpunch hit. I wasn't gonna question him since he was doing me a favor.
We got to the machine and he plugged in the cord and buzz-pencil. He turned its setting **** up to "aggressive" and put the tip to the broken off stud (it was about 1/2 thread below the surface...couldn't Vise-Grip). With a slight angle of attack near the outer periphery of the stud, he walked it out of the hole in under a minute. I stood there stunned and slack-jawed as he dropped the offending stud into my hand. He gave me one of those "What do you think of THAT!?!?" looks, gathered up his cord and buzz-pencil, and headed back to the shop. I just kinda stood there with my teeth in my mouth.
Several years later, I had a chance to use Dave's technique on a #8 machine screw that was in a very inaccessible place on the head of a CNC Punch Machine...that time, I got to look like the magician to the customer's maintenance guy. He'd been organizing his roll-away, and was ready to toss out that engraving pencil he never used anymore.
Keep this one in mind next time you're thinking about reaching for the EZ-out.
All the way to the wing riveter, I was wondering if he was going to use it to make a precise indentation for a centerpunch hit. I wasn't gonna question him since he was doing me a favor.
We got to the machine and he plugged in the cord and buzz-pencil. He turned its setting **** up to "aggressive" and put the tip to the broken off stud (it was about 1/2 thread below the surface...couldn't Vise-Grip). With a slight angle of attack near the outer periphery of the stud, he walked it out of the hole in under a minute. I stood there stunned and slack-jawed as he dropped the offending stud into my hand. He gave me one of those "What do you think of THAT!?!?" looks, gathered up his cord and buzz-pencil, and headed back to the shop. I just kinda stood there with my teeth in my mouth.
Several years later, I had a chance to use Dave's technique on a #8 machine screw that was in a very inaccessible place on the head of a CNC Punch Machine...that time, I got to look like the magician to the customer's maintenance guy. He'd been organizing his roll-away, and was ready to toss out that engraving pencil he never used anymore.
Keep this one in mind next time you're thinking about reaching for the EZ-out.
