fxdc 09 forward Control
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
I've been fighting this decision for about 9 months now, and probably spent 40 hrs reading all the threads out here on it. I kept thinking I was happy with my mid-controls and hi-way pegs and a little scared to jump in and change it myself, but sure as hell ain't gonna pay 5 hrs labor on top of the $350 parts to have it done at the dealer.
I'm happy to say, we finally jumped. Local dealer had a Christmas Party last Thursday, offering 15% off all accessories. I am going WS6's route (THANK YOU for all of the part numbers and info and BTW that Dragonfly Green is the Baddest-*** color they ever put on a bike). I purchased the older kit with the longer shift rod. With the discount, it all came out to about the same had I got it shipped from Chicago or Zannatti's. Of course the Parts Dept man told me it wouldn't work - I told him I had much more trusted resources out here that tell me it will.
I appreciate all the info you guys have posted on this. I am not cutting my mid-shifter, just going to slide it back and snuggle it behind the engine bolt. They had to order the parts, so I won't get them til next week, but I'll post pics when I'm done, and possible questions/problems encountered during the process. Is there anything special that hasn't been mentioned? Some one said to have the bike in Neutral when changing over - is that important?
Thanks, Guys!
I'm happy to say, we finally jumped. Local dealer had a Christmas Party last Thursday, offering 15% off all accessories. I am going WS6's route (THANK YOU for all of the part numbers and info and BTW that Dragonfly Green is the Baddest-*** color they ever put on a bike). I purchased the older kit with the longer shift rod. With the discount, it all came out to about the same had I got it shipped from Chicago or Zannatti's. Of course the Parts Dept man told me it wouldn't work - I told him I had much more trusted resources out here that tell me it will.
I appreciate all the info you guys have posted on this. I am not cutting my mid-shifter, just going to slide it back and snuggle it behind the engine bolt. They had to order the parts, so I won't get them til next week, but I'll post pics when I'm done, and possible questions/problems encountered during the process. Is there anything special that hasn't been mentioned? Some one said to have the bike in Neutral when changing over - is that important?
Thanks, Guys!
Doesn't matter if it's in neutral or not, as the shift lever will spring back into the mid position.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Yes, the shaft will slide out, and there's no need to remove the primary cover.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Upstate SC
Thanks, man - that's the very thing that will turn my 2 hour job into a 4 hour job.
Altorr - I'll let you know how it goes. If you search this topic, you'll find a whole lot of good information. I think this method is the best route for me.
Altorr - I'll let you know how it goes. If you search this topic, you'll find a whole lot of good information. I think this method is the best route for me.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Upstate SC
Well, we picked up our parts on Friday and jumped on it right after lunch today. Took about an hour and a half with no issues. I don't see why HD wanted to change this set up forcing you to tear apart the primary. I just tucked the mid lever behind the engine bolt for now. Once I'm real comfortable with this set up, I'll probably hack saw it to remove it.
After completion, I took it out for a 50-mile, cold ride (40 is cold to me) and I think that once I get used to it, I'll really like it a lot better than the mids. I'm 5'10" with a 30" inseam and it's a little bit of a reach, but my seat is a WG that had been modified to move me back a few inches. I rolled my buckhorns back a tad, and it's pretty comfortable, but I may have Allen at MCC modify my seat again to move me forward just a hair. All in all a super easy mod - if you don't listen to the guys at the HD Parts counter.
Thanks again for the part numbers and info WS6.
After completion, I took it out for a 50-mile, cold ride (40 is cold to me) and I think that once I get used to it, I'll really like it a lot better than the mids. I'm 5'10" with a 30" inseam and it's a little bit of a reach, but my seat is a WG that had been modified to move me back a few inches. I rolled my buckhorns back a tad, and it's pretty comfortable, but I may have Allen at MCC modify my seat again to move me forward just a hair. All in all a super easy mod - if you don't listen to the guys at the HD Parts counter.
Thanks again for the part numbers and info WS6.
Last edited by jcopel; Jun 14, 2010 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Allen's at MCC - Dale is at Wheels through Time....
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 304
Likes: 1
From: Washington State
I ended up doing this job about a month after buying my FXDC. I went with the removal of the inner primary for two reasons, one being I wanted a chrome inner and two wanted the longer shifter rod because I heard if you didnt, it makes it hard to find neutral. Anyway, I had to buy a couple tools for the clutch/hub nuts, but it was a very easy install. BTW, I wouldnt own this bike unless it had forwards, so comfortable and my leg and backpain from the mids are gone.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
I ended up doing this job about a month after buying my FXDC. I went with the removal of the inner primary for two reasons, one being I wanted a chrome inner and two wanted the longer shifter rod because I heard if you didnt, it makes it hard to find neutral. Anyway, I had to buy a couple tools for the clutch/hub nuts, but it was a very easy install. BTW, I wouldnt own this bike unless it had forwards, so comfortable and my leg and backpain from the mids are gone.
Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
I took every ones advice and did it my self. I did not have to split the primary at all. First I took the shift lever off and slid the shaft to the inside and used a pnumatic hack saw with a normal hacksaw blade and guided it with my finger and riped right through the shaft and pulled it out. I did have to unplug the spark plug wires and move them out of the way. I then loosened the trans shifter arm and with a 90 degree screwdriver I was able to pry the splines open a little bit. I tiped the top of the shifter arm towards the engine and there was enough clearance to sneak it out. The new shaft was already was never compressed so I did not have to pry it at all I just put it down in there at an angel and it slid right on no problem and I did not have to force anything it went right together about an hour and a half.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Upstate SC
One reason I hesitated so long in doing this was because of the troubles I have read about finding neutral. I took another short ride today (47 degrees - woohoo) and have not had any troubles finding neutral with this set up. Made some slight adjustments to my foot lever angle - I'm lovin' it.
Last edited by jcopel; Dec 21, 2009 at 10:13 PM.
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Stage II
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: calif.
hey 5'11 would like to buy your forward controls if they fit my 2009 fxdc Gary