Its never one two three for me

anyhow. As i was bringing up the Tank there is a small rubber type line that goes under the speedo. it felt to me like it came on-done. any Idea what this line is?? also if I unscrew the speedo are there any surprises for me. or should that be a one two three fix


also. to lift the tank 2" will require me cutting the crossover hose, draining the tank and figuring something out with the blinkers that will hit the tank upon turning the bike....

Id really like to do this but im not sure of any problems. or if i can handle this-


Bike is a 2001 dyna low rider.

 

That rubber line is the vent tube.

 

Pull the speedo put it back on.

123 easy?

while were at it....what does this tube do?

 

Sounds like the tube is a overfill drainage/vent tube, if you were to fill your bike and the gas was to expand because of warmup the gas would drain through the tube flowing to the ground. Anybody correct me if I am wrong on that, the turn signal relocation kit sounds like a good fit. Lowes sells 1/4" inner diameter fuel hose, pretty much the same as OEM stuff, make sure the your clamps are tight, don't want any leaking. I don't know anything abou the speedo.

 

On those turn signal relocation kit.

something like this- Id like a good brand and not some aftermarket junk. so any help there would be great.

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/de...son_Dyna_Glide

 

I went with Harley Dyna relocation kit, not sure if it will fit yours, find a part number and search it on Chicago HD website for a good price.

 

to drain the gas use to clamps and clamp them on both ends of the line(make sure not to clamp on the tanks nipples). then cut in between the clamps, then release one clamp and drain into a can.

the console is easliy removed by remove the two bolts on the top of the console and the lower bolt on the bottom of the tank. slowly raise the console, you dont have to remove it, then unplug the vaccum line off the nipple and replace with longer. then put the console back on.

to rotate the turns, all you need to is loosen the perches and rotate them enough, then tighten.

if your wiring is tight when you lift the tank, then take the rubber booty out of the frame and slowly plug some slack out, dont yank, pull slowly, should be plenty in there. then put the booty back in.

now to install lift. loosen rear bolt, dont remove, just loosen. then remove front bolt, lift tank and install the lift, depending on which one you bought or made, drop it in and install the bolts.

i can do a lift in about 10 minutes, if you never done one, it will take 15-20 minutes, not hard at all to install, if your only lifting it 2 inches usally you dont need to change any hoses or rotate anything.

any other questions just P.M. me... jackyl

 

Thanks jackyl the kit was purchased from you

Big help.... the speedo booty is cracked and a bit warn. should i replace that since im in there . is it hard.?

thanks-

 

i didnt send instructs? here is a copy. jackyl

TANK LIFT KIT
INSTRUCTIONS


1. REMOVING THE FUEL CROSSOVER HOSE AND DRAINING THE FUEL FROM THE TANK. (ON THE 2 INCH LIFT KITS THE FUEL HOSE WILL BE LONG ENOUGH AND WILL NOT REQUIRE REMOVAL OR EMPTYING OF THE FUEL). TO REMOVE THE CROSSOVER HOSE AND FUEL, USE TWO CLAMPS AND CLAMP THEM ON BOTH ENDS OF THE CROSSOVER HOSE, MAKING SURE NOT TO CLAMP ON THE TANK NIPPLES, THEN CUT THE FUEL HOSE IN BETWEEN THE CLAMPS. USE A FUNNEL AND A PROPER GAS CAN AND DRAIN THE FUEL FROM ONE SIDE OF THE CROSSOVER HOSE, BY RELEASING ONE CLAMP. WHEN ALL THE FUEL IS DRAINED, INSTALL THE FUEL HOSE WITH THE TWO HOSE CLAMPS THAT ARE PROVIDED IN THE KIT.

2. REMOVE SEAT.

3. LOOSEN THE REAR TANK BOLT ONLY, (DO NOT REMOVE).

4. REMOVE THE TANK BOLT IN THE FRONT OF THE TANK. PUT THE NUT & BOLT TO THE SIDE, WE WILL BE RE-USING THE NUT & BOLT LATER.

5. RAISE THE FRONT OF THE TANK FAR ENOUGH TO PUT THE TANK LIFT IN PLACE. IF THE WIRING HARNESS OR THE VACUUM HOSE IS RESTRICTING THE TANK FROM RISING FAR ENOUGH TO INSTALL THE LIFT. THEN ALL YOU DO IS JUST PULL SOME OF THE WIRING HARNESS OUT OF THE SIDE OF THE FRAME BY SLOWLY APPLYING PRESSER ON THE HARNESS AND PULLING THE WIRING HARNESS OUT OF THE FRAME FAR ENOUGH TO GIVE YOU ENOUGH SLACK (DO NOT YANK ON THE WIRES). IF THE VACUUM HOSE IS RESTRCTING THE TANK FROM RAISING, THEN TAKE THE 3 BOLTS OUT OF THE TANK CONSOLE AND LIFT THE CONSOLE HIGH ENOUGH TO UNPLUG THE VACUUM HOSE FROM THE NIPPLE, THEN FOLLOW THE VACUUM LINE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE FRAME AND PULL IT OFF THE CANISTER NIPPLE, THEN JUST PLUG IN THE NEW VACUUM HOSE THAT IS INCLUDED IN THE KIT. THEN RE-INSTALL THE CONSOLE. NOW RAISE THE TANK AND PUT THE TANK LIFT IN PLACE.

6. TAKE THE BOLT YOU TOOK OUT FROM THE TANK EARLIER AND BOLT THE LIFT TO THE FRAME. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET.

7. TAKE THE NUT & BOLT THAT WAS SUPPLIED WITH THE KIT AND BOLT THE TANK TO THE LIFT. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET.

8. NOW TIGHTEN ALL THREE BOLTS. REAR TANK BOLT, FRONT TANK BOLT, AND THE TANK LIFT MOUNT BOLT.

9. INSTALL SEAT.

10. YOU’RE DONE.

 

are you talking about the console seal? or the speedo seal?