LWOS: That's interesting about your left mirror. Mine has always been like that too, the right one is clear. The mirrors are no worse or better with the True-Track, just feels different.

 

My Right one has some minor vibration.......but the left one is absolutely USELESS at higher speeds....and I mean useless. I've repositioned my windshield & taken it off, turned in and turned out the mirror..... to see if that made a difference. It doesn't. So I have no clue. As I said, my dealer has commented several other Dyna owners have complained about the exact same thing.....so who knows. My Hubby thought I was exaggerating until he took it for a ride ...... He came back and said "that's crazy". My bike doesn't do that. He has a Heritage STC.

 

If you ever sat on a running Softail, you will notice how very smooth it is while running. No vibration, it's in the design and that's why they cost more.

 

My 2007 Low Rider out the door was $19,841.47.( before I added all my chrome).....His 2006 Heritage STC was 23,003.27. Really, not all that much more, yet his came with bags, more chrome, more and bigger lights,floorboards, way nicer seat.....etc. I think it has more to do with how his engine is mounted on that bike.
If I was younger, stronger and taller, I would have gotten a Heritage. But it's just too much bike for me.

 

Funny about those left side mirror comments 'cause mine is the same, also...

 

I noticed less vibes after the install. Love the product.

 

Soft tails have a counter-balanced motor and rigid mounts to the frame, Dynas and Sportsters have rubber mounts. Hence the Heritage will be smoother and has no need for True-Track.

 

Good write-up on the True-Track, tho I don't have one on my Dyna.
I ride mine to it's cornering limits on tight twisty pavement ..... such as the short radius turns on Highway 129 @ Deals Gap. I have found that at speeds less than 60 mph on relatively smooth pavement, my bike can be ridden very aggressively (my stock tires are scrubbed side to side front and rear) with no indication of chassis instability or cornering tracking divergence. In fact, the motorcycle handles extraordinarily well and is condfidence inspiring. I also ride The Gap on a semi-motard and various sportbikes and dual sport bikes
Now, the beast is different, however when requested to generate lean angles at speeds in excess of 60 mph, where probably the True Track device would offer remedy to tracking problems encountered at those higher speeds.

So there you have it, my personal opinion is I have no need for a True Track device on my Dyna for cornering hard at speeds less than about 60mph, and if I have the "need" for hard cornering (peg dragging) at speeds beyond 60, there are bikes far more suitable for the task.

 

I really agree with Centerline's opinion about the handling below 60MPH and the ride of the "Dragon". (Not to mention how jealous I am of someone with FOUR different motorcycles he can chose to ride, lol)
SC Longhair and I made the trip to the Dragon in September and he ran as hard or harder than I did, his FXDWG with no true-track and my FXDBI with...

For me, the True-Track makes a huge difference when taking off at a traffic light or stop sign. Prior to the installation, the bike tended to swerve from one side of the lane to the other as kind of a natural part of lifting off one foot and then stabilizing as speed increases. After the installation, the bike tracks straight in the portion of the lane I start in, making a noticeable difference.
The second place the True-Track makes a huge difference is in high speed sweepers. I have made this comment several times so anyone reading this again pardon me for boring you but, I am privy to a stretch of limited access road that runs along the banks of the Savannah River that just begs to be run as hard as possible. Prior to the installation, instability limited my speed to 70MPH, after the installation those same curves are taken @ 90MPH with total confidence and stability.

Now, if I haven't bored you to death being redundant lol, my take on the vibration issue is improper adjustment of one or several alignment points. The front True-Track mount is notorious for limited clearance between the two pieces. One part is mounted to the frame, the other mounted to the engine mount. The clearance between the two is minute and may be coming in contact with each other at certain RPMs due to resonance. It may require you to loosen the motor mounts, front and rear, disconnect the heim joints, loosen the rear axle and release the tension on the drive belt and start the installation and alignment procedure outlined in the service manual. If the clearance between the two pieces of the front True-Track are still too close, say less than 1/16", further modifications like grinding the area of contact is possible, may be required.

I didn't have to grind or alter my True-track but I can see how it might be necessary under some conditions.

Removal of the rear tire made installing the rear True-track much easier due to clearance of the socket/ratchet/torwue wrench when tightening the rear-facing bolts. This also allowed me to get my head in a direct line with that area and actually "see" what I was working on.

For LWOS and others having issue with vibration in the left mirror, I think an internal bar snake, as Mud has installed a version of, would greatly reduce the problems you are experiencing.

 

Is the mirror tight? (little screws on the back)