there are three bearing in the clutch pull side, check it out by draining tranny and pulling cable side cover to make sure the cable is correctly installed and the bearings are i their right place. Again refer to the manual on clutch cable install. Be sur ethe cable is completely loose before proceeding with anything. Do not pull clutch at all until the adjustor is properly adjusted to 1/16 to 1/8" at the lever.

 

ok, Ill pull that apart and see what i can figure out. I hope thats it bc im about at my witts end on this one

-Livn

 

you know what, there may be nothing wrong. Others have reported that after making a clutch pack adjustment that the bike would not roll forward in first with clutch pulled. once warmed up and rode, it set itself right....

 

i read that a couple times too, it just makes me uneasy firing it up not feeling confident itll work, ya know? Im relatively new to working on the mechanical parts of the bike.

Livn

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/trans...-easy-way.html
try this... also make sure that you turn the locknut on the clutch pack adjustor screw out enough so that you can turn the adjustor screw in far enough to encounter the correct resistance. If the nut is not screwed out enough, you may have turned the adjustor in, felt the resistance of the nut hitting the plate and then backed off 1/2 turn. In effect you did not set the pack right.

 

I have reread your original 2 posts
As far as I understand post 1 , you are trying to turn the back wheel with:
the bike in gear
the clutch pulled in
the motor not running

you are finding that the wheel does not want to turn easily..... THIS IS NORMAL

but by all means recheck your adjustment, if you are not sure

post 2 says you think the centre adjusting screw is sticking out too far
why do you think that?
Only a comparison with same make model makes sense
To compare with some other make gives no indication at all

as an aside, clutches do not "set right" after riding, as if to suggest that something changes or settles after parts move
that does not even make sense
what they mean is that the clutch works normally with the motor running

as you are unsure of a few things, I recommend that you stick to the book method of adjustment

 

The wheel doesnt turn AT ALL, as if the clutch wasn't even pulled in. Is this normal?

I have followed the book to the T several times, and when it hasnt seemed right, i played around with screwing it in farther or backing it out farther, when i got no results with that, id re adjust it as per the manual. At the moment, my bike is on the lift with the primary cover off until i come up with a solution to this, so i see no problem trying to troubleshoot to try to find a solution as long as i go back to the way the manual instructs.

I appreciate all the feedback

-Livn

 

YES........ quite normal
it is totally possible to have the clutch installed and adjusted correctly, and for the wheel to not want to turn at all when the motor is not running(in gear, clutch pulled in)

you slide the entire clutch onto the shaft(along with the chain etc)
you torque the clutch nut
you ensure clutch cable adjuster is absolutely at its shortest(wound into itself as far as it will go, until all the thread is gone)
you refit the plate and circlip(I am assuming pushrod was not removed, and that the adjuster was backed off at disassembly)
(loosen locknut and back out adjuster approx 2 turns if this was not done previously)

so cable has maximum freeplay, and centre adjuster is backed out
(if you back out the centre adjuster quite a long way, and pull the clutch lever in, you may well throw the "ramp" on the other end over center, which you will regret, so whether you understand that or not, do not do it. Only ever back out the center adjuster a turn or two, just enough so that circlip goes in easily, or cable can be either removed or fitted, if that is what you are doing)

wind in centre screw until it stops..... you will feel pressure..... wind it back and forth a few times, and you will get the idea of what it feels like when it bottoms.....
Of course, if you keep winding against the resistance, you will see the clutch begin to open(try it, so you can see. then back it off again)

So....... you have wound in and out a couple of times, and now you have the feel of things, and can tell when it is bottomed out, but you haven't actually wound it past that point.....
turn it back half a turn, and lock the lock nut
you can now jiggle the plate that the screw and locknut are on..... it will move a little, as you backed the screw off the half turn, ensuring there is not pressure there all the time, but only when you pull the clutch lever in

now wind out the clutch cable adjuster until you have the stand 1/16 to 1/8 freeplay between the end of the cable, and the housing at the handlebar that the cable goes into
to set this correctly, you have to grasp the cable with one hand, lever in the other, and check the freeplay while moving the cable in and out
it is a very strong cable, and will fool you otherwise

ASSUMING..... that all other work is correct and finalised, start bike, place in gear, and ride off

DO NOT JOIN THE BIG CLUB OF PEOPLE WHO FREAKED OUT BECAUSE THEY COULD NOT TURN THEIR WHEEL BY HAND

hope this helps

 

yeah by set right, I meant it will work normally once running... I guess I should have used different wording

 

Well, I dont know if im beating my own dead horse on this one, but after i adjust the clutch pack and then the cable according to the manual and squeeze the clutch it appears that only the first plate (nearest the transmission) and the one after it separate. The rest do not separate from eachother....?

Livn