switch housing wire connectors

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Mar 13, 2010 | 11:59 AM

JoeBobber

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switch housing wire connectors

hi all,
I am having a hard time disconnecting the turn signal wires and switch housing wires from the connectors. Could someone please point me in the right direction. I don't want to force them out and not be able to reconnect them. I have already removed the entire assembly from in the neck of the frame, and removed the switch housings from the bike, but can't find in the manual how to get the individual wires unplugged.

Thanks for any help

Attached Thumbnails

switch housing wire connectors-sany1904.jpg

switch housing wire connectors-sany1903.jpg

switch housing wire connectors-sany1901.jpg

Mar 13, 2010 | 12:10 PM

EricInNCa

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 2,960

Likes: 26

From: Sonoma County, CA

Here's a link to a very similar question.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...connector.html

Hope this helps.

Mar 13, 2010 | 12:13 PM

EricInNCa

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Nov 2009

Posts: 2,960

Likes: 26

From: Sonoma County, CA

Another little bit of info on one of the connectors in your pic...

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...vice-help.html

Mar 13, 2010 | 12:19 PM

mud

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Joined: May 2006

Posts: 14,564

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From: the 50s & the 60s

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBobber

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Illustrated below is a six hole Deutsch.
There is one of these for each of the left and the right hand controls.
They are great fittings, positive connection,
and, just like fish pus sy, totally watertight.

Easy to open up, pry gently with a small flat bladed screwdriver
in one of the little slots in the edge of the locking wedge.
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Once you have it opened up,
the red arrows indicate the springed locks.
The green arrow is pointing to one of the locks
that I have relaxed by pushing it sidewaze with the small flat bladed screwdriver.
Then simply pull the wire out through the backside.

The orange wedge shown above locates the fittings precisely for engagement,
and prevents the locks from disengaging.
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Pictured below are the individual components -
Housing w/attached seal, wedge, and backend seal.
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The wires penetrate the rearend seal
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Mar 13, 2010 | 01:11 PM

jmpancoast

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 3,438

Likes: 3

From: Chesterfield, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by mud

.

They are great fittings, positive connection,
and, just like fish pus sy, totally watertight.

Mud, can you clarify this for me.......

Does fish pus sy get wet when aroused?

Does it smell like people?

Thanks

Mar 13, 2010 | 01:38 PM

mud

Club Member

Joined: May 2006

Posts: 14,564

Likes: 9,223

From: the 50s & the 60s

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mud

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They are great fittings, positive connection,

and, just like fish pus sy, totally watertight.

.
.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmpancoast

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Mud, can you clarify this for me.......

Does fish pus sy get wet when aroused?

Does it smell like people?

Thanks

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two really good questions John, butt, I've never really thought about it.

So. I don't have an answer for you..........

Now. If you would asked - why do fish stink?? that's an easy one...........

just a few daze ago, I was wondering - why do fish stink??

the answer came to me right away, as it is pretty obvious...........

Way way back, in the Garden of Eden, first time Adam and Eve did it.

when they were through, Eve went down to the river and washed it out.

Ever since then, fish have stunk.
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Mar 13, 2010 | 01:40 PM

09DynaRyder

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Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 68

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From: Livingston, Texas

Very Informative pictures

Thanks for the pics Mud. Helps alot.

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Mar 13, 2010 | 04:52 PM

JoeBobber

Thread Starter

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Joined: Jul 2008

Posts: 99

Likes: 2

From:

got it.........

thanks all...

like you said some patience and a little frustration. but not bad

Mar 13, 2010 | 04:57 PM

#10

mud

Club Member

Joined: May 2006

Posts: 14,564

Likes: 9,223

From: the 50s & the 60s

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeBobber

thanks everyone, i think i

got it all figured out except the turn signal wires,

not sure if there is a lock inside the connector,

or if i just push the wires out with a paper clip like tool.

thanks again

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****AMP fitting release tool****

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I've received several emails over the last three years asking about
extracting wires from the ever so popular AMP connectors.
HD uses these in several locations on their machines.
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I am a strong believer in NOT cutting wires.

remove the lens, then unplug the fitting.

Really very simple to disassemble the electrical connectors
so you can pull the wires thru the standoffs.

I've heard quite a few folks on the forums
brag on how fast they can cut the wire and then solder.
Sadly, that bit of misinformation is a joke.

I can extract several before you can even get out
the snips, soldering gun, solder, shrink wrap, heat gun, etc.

Patience is a virtue while mastering this technique on the first wire.
After that, they get easier.

I can release them in a matter of seconds now.
Same is true for the other connectors that HD uses -
Deutsch, Packard, Delphi -
NO need to BUY SPECIAL extraction tools for any of these.

Here ya go:

Remove the two screws that hold the taillight to it's housing.
Use a small screwdriver to push the lock tab down a little,
and pull the fitting out.
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This image below shows the 2 hole AMP and the tip of the 16 gauge wire I use.

Blue arrow shows a slight bend, and the tip is hammered flat.
Red is the first lock to undo. This is what holds the wires in the fitting.

Green is the tab that you released in the first step above,
it locks the fitting to it's receiver.

Green on the right is opened way up for some of the pix farther down.
Don't bend it out or you will ruin the fitting.
They are cheap, fifty cents or so.
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Blue below, better shot of the 16 ga tip.
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Next image you see I put an S bend in my release tool so I can control it better.
Also here you see that I have the turn indicator wire pushed fully IN
while raising the lock tang inside.
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Now, below, once you have the lock tang lifted,
extract the wire.
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Don't forget to pay attention to which wire comes from which side of the fitting.
There are small numbers on the housing.
In this case. 1 is purple, 2 is black.

Next two images illustrate where the tang is, and where the tip of my tool needs to be.
Green is pulled way up here simply for the photo.
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I suggest buying a couple of new sockets so you can fold this way wide open
for your first try at this. If need be.

Little blue arrow indicates how far the end of the tang lifting wire needs to be.
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These are great fittings, but, they are not watertight.
Green below shows a generous dab of dielectric compound on the tip of a little brush.
Red - the fitting is full
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