New brake line help
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Ridgecrest CA
New brake line help
Not having much luck bleeding front brake. I just changed out bars and controls, the only issue is I cant get the front bake to bleed. I have done a search and didn't get much help. Someone was talking about filling from the bleed port, I am familiar with this but you need special tools to do it. Any ideas?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
When you think you have all the air bubbles out, roll the bike backwards and try the front brake, When I did mine I swear I could not get them to bleed by feel of the lever, but as soon as I rolled it back out of the garage, the front locked right up.
DOT 5 can be tricky on the front brakes, but give the roll a try, just to see if you are there.
And for the next time you have to bleed, invest in some Russell Speed Bleeders, they are magic....
DOT 5 can be tricky on the front brakes, but give the roll a try, just to see if you are there.
And for the next time you have to bleed, invest in some Russell Speed Bleeders, they are magic....
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
here's a trick. You gotta get fluid down through the line and build up before bleeding. So slowly pump the brake handle till you get some resistance, then bleed. The pumping will go on for about 100 or more pumps. By slowly, I mean pull it in let it out wait a second and then do it again, don't pump away ferociously.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 14
From: Central Ohio
Bleeding Brakes
This is how I did mine...
With the cap off & the reservoir 1/2 full, I slowly pumped the hand lever back & forth with one hand while I drank a beer with the other.
Air bubbles rose to the surface with each pump. It took a little while but sure enough, near the end of the beer… no more air bubbles.
This gets the air out of the line down to the caliper. Then it’s time to bleed the caliper. Fill the reservoir & install the cap.
Fill a mason jar with @ an inch of fluid, put a boxed end wrench on the bleeder & attach a rubber tube to the bleeder and put the other end into the jar.
Pump the brake lever back & forth, with the air out of the line… the brake should ‘pump up’ nice & firm… maybe not so firm at first, but keep going.
At some point of ‘firmness’ stop pumping and continue squeezing the lever… call out “HOLD IT” to your assistant (if you have one) then crack open the bleeder valve… the hand lever will get pulled into the grip & the air in the caliper will get pushed into the jar. You’ll see the air bubbles in the fluid, that’s what it's there for.
Close the bleeder valve… your assistant (if you have one) should still be “holding it”. After you’ve closed the valve call out to your assistant (if you have one) “OK, PUMP IT”.
Don't let the reservoir get empty.
Repeat this until you no longer see the bubbles. The hand lever should now feel nice & firm with each pull and it should no longer ‘pump up’ or feel ‘spongy’… if it does then bleed the caliper again.
If you have dual front brakes, do the high side first... that'd be the trottle side with the front wheel cocked on the jiffy.
I’ve done this by myself, but it’s easier to have an assistant… iiiif you can get one.
With the cap off & the reservoir 1/2 full, I slowly pumped the hand lever back & forth with one hand while I drank a beer with the other.
Air bubbles rose to the surface with each pump. It took a little while but sure enough, near the end of the beer… no more air bubbles.
This gets the air out of the line down to the caliper. Then it’s time to bleed the caliper. Fill the reservoir & install the cap.
Fill a mason jar with @ an inch of fluid, put a boxed end wrench on the bleeder & attach a rubber tube to the bleeder and put the other end into the jar.
Pump the brake lever back & forth, with the air out of the line… the brake should ‘pump up’ nice & firm… maybe not so firm at first, but keep going.
At some point of ‘firmness’ stop pumping and continue squeezing the lever… call out “HOLD IT” to your assistant (if you have one) then crack open the bleeder valve… the hand lever will get pulled into the grip & the air in the caliper will get pushed into the jar. You’ll see the air bubbles in the fluid, that’s what it's there for.
Close the bleeder valve… your assistant (if you have one) should still be “holding it”. After you’ve closed the valve call out to your assistant (if you have one) “OK, PUMP IT”.
Don't let the reservoir get empty.
Repeat this until you no longer see the bubbles. The hand lever should now feel nice & firm with each pull and it should no longer ‘pump up’ or feel ‘spongy’… if it does then bleed the caliper again.
If you have dual front brakes, do the high side first... that'd be the trottle side with the front wheel cocked on the jiffy.
I’ve done this by myself, but it’s easier to have an assistant… iiiif you can get one.
Last edited by 08fxdf43202; Mar 26, 2010 at 06:51 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 14
From: Central Ohio
When you think you have all the air bubbles out, roll the bike backwards and try the front brake, When I did mine I swear I could not get them to bleed by feel of the lever, but as soon as I rolled it back out of the garage, the front locked right up.
DOT 5 can be tricky on the front brakes, but give the roll a try, just to see if you are there.
And for the next time you have to bleed, invest in some Russell Speed Bleeders, they are magic....
DOT 5 can be tricky on the front brakes, but give the roll a try, just to see if you are there.
And for the next time you have to bleed, invest in some Russell Speed Bleeders, they are magic....
Last edited by 08fxdf43202; Mar 26, 2010 at 06:47 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Mine is DOT 5, you will have issues if you use 5 in a 4 system, that may be what you heard.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,260
Likes: 5
From: Batesville Ga
DOT 4 and earlier (as well as the new DOT 5.1) are glycol-based fluids. DOT 5 is silicon based. The two are completely incompatible with one another. Mix them together - even the tiniest residue of DOT 4 in an otherwise clean, purged system filled with DOT 5 and you instantly create sludge.
Some system components - orings, seals, etc - can also be incompatible with the "wrong" brake fluid. HD uses DOT 4 in their ABS bikes while recommending DOT 5 (which isn't corrosive to paint) in other models. DOT 5.1 is actually a glycol-based fluid that works with some ABS systems.
Some system components - orings, seals, etc - can also be incompatible with the "wrong" brake fluid. HD uses DOT 4 in their ABS bikes while recommending DOT 5 (which isn't corrosive to paint) in other models. DOT 5.1 is actually a glycol-based fluid that works with some ABS systems.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Ridgecrest CA
Cool thanks for all the feed back. My bike calls for DOT 4 good thing... that DOT 5 is high dollar stuff.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 163
From: Grapevine Texas
I bought a vacuum bleeder a couple years back and used it on my vehicles, and have bled my streetbob, a couple times now, and man, it's clean, easy and did I mention easy, get on at your local autozone friend, you won't be sorry.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kbuckz06
General Harley Davidson Chat
11
Dec 11, 2010 08:58 PM
