True-Track on a FXDF
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Westerly, RI
True-Track on a FXDF
After installing the Power Commander V last week, I am feeling a little brave and I pulled the trigger on the true-track for dyna this afternoon. I should be recieving it on Monday. I have experience with working on cars in the past, mostly pulling air-cooled volkswagon motors and fixing them when they were broken. However, I never paid more than $500 for any volkswagon camper I owned, and my 2009 Fat Bob is a little different.
What I'm getting at, is, does it take more than intelligence, patience and a torque wrench? I don't have a torque wrench, but I can pick one up at NAPA auto parts for about $120. It definitely wouldn't cost that much to have the thing put on at a shop, (shouldn't take over an hour) but I want to do it myself and keep a new tool out of the deal. However, I am slightly intimidated by all the posts by obviously more qualified people who say the rear install is a PIA.
There are two different versions of instructions on the true-track website, and they seem to be really clear on how to do the front, but the rear install seems a little shady in terms of clarity on what goes where.
I will be doing this with minimal tools, and I don't have a lift. Suggestions, opinions? Anybody put one of these things on a Fat Bob?
What I'm getting at, is, does it take more than intelligence, patience and a torque wrench? I don't have a torque wrench, but I can pick one up at NAPA auto parts for about $120. It definitely wouldn't cost that much to have the thing put on at a shop, (shouldn't take over an hour) but I want to do it myself and keep a new tool out of the deal. However, I am slightly intimidated by all the posts by obviously more qualified people who say the rear install is a PIA.
There are two different versions of instructions on the true-track website, and they seem to be really clear on how to do the front, but the rear install seems a little shady in terms of clarity on what goes where.
I will be doing this with minimal tools, and I don't have a lift. Suggestions, opinions? Anybody put one of these things on a Fat Bob?
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 894
Likes: 4
From: Newberg OR
It's really not that big a deal. Just take your time, and have a friend helping when you tackle the rear. The rear brace is really a lot easier if you have a lift. Just remember to support the motor when pulling the isolator bolts.
Look at it this way - Once you pick up a good lift, and two torque wrenches (ft lbs, and in lbs) you can do 100% of the maintenance, and a majority of the repairs. You'll be $$ ahead with just a couple service visits. I'd suggest you don't go cheap when you do buy a lift. If you need to, wait to put on the true-trak while you save up. Just my
Look at it this way - Once you pick up a good lift, and two torque wrenches (ft lbs, and in lbs) you can do 100% of the maintenance, and a majority of the repairs. You'll be $$ ahead with just a couple service visits. I'd suggest you don't go cheap when you do buy a lift. If you need to, wait to put on the true-trak while you save up. Just my
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
Do the front first! It is easy and you get a little buzz from achieving that much. Then take a deep breath. I fitted mine using a scissor jack to support the engine/trans. The biggest challenge is reversing the trans bolts. You may be lucky and find yours are the right way round (bolt heads on the left), if not just take your time and be patient! I had to walk away from mine a couple fo times, but after three years the memories are fading, while the bike's improved handling never does.
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Minneapolis
As others have said, having a friend help in the rear makes it much easier.
The directions also make a lot more sense once you start working on it. I brought a laptop to the garage so I could reference the pictures ( and listen to pandora)
I did it on my own, and it was challenging to turn the bolts on both sides of the bike at the same time.
Couple of things. For the rear bolts that have to flip:
I had to jack up the rear of the engine much farther than I thought I would originally to get the rear bolts to slide out.
I also only took my exhaust bracket for the Fat Cat off. I have an extensive collection of different length socket extensions, so I was able to get straight in there to those bolts. No need to remove the rear brake master cylinder.
Then the other bolts on the rear pissed me off. The allen heads. I only have an L set of allen heads. I had to chop one of them up to use with my socket set because there just isn't room to turn an L allen wrench.
Good luck
The directions also make a lot more sense once you start working on it. I brought a laptop to the garage so I could reference the pictures ( and listen to pandora)
I did it on my own, and it was challenging to turn the bolts on both sides of the bike at the same time.
Couple of things. For the rear bolts that have to flip:
I had to jack up the rear of the engine much farther than I thought I would originally to get the rear bolts to slide out.
I also only took my exhaust bracket for the Fat Cat off. I have an extensive collection of different length socket extensions, so I was able to get straight in there to those bolts. No need to remove the rear brake master cylinder.
Then the other bolts on the rear pissed me off. The allen heads. I only have an L set of allen heads. I had to chop one of them up to use with my socket set because there just isn't room to turn an L allen wrench.
Good luck
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
A) you can pick up a torque wrench at harbor freight for about $20 with a lifetime warranty. It breaks, return it, get a new one.
B) I'd do the rear first. Get the sucky part of it out of the the way. I installed my rear with the wheel removed and of course, lifted. However, I helped DynaMightBuzz install his with the rear on and jacked up and it wasn't that much worse, IMO.
C) You will need a 2nd pair of hands for transposing the rear mount bolts. The helping hand will make it easier.
Also...if by chance you did the sears jack mod I posted, you're going to have clearance issues with it for this particular job. Mostly on the front. If you have a J&S, you'll have the same issue. Just the nature of the beast.
B) I'd do the rear first. Get the sucky part of it out of the the way. I installed my rear with the wheel removed and of course, lifted. However, I helped DynaMightBuzz install his with the rear on and jacked up and it wasn't that much worse, IMO.
C) You will need a 2nd pair of hands for transposing the rear mount bolts. The helping hand will make it easier.
Also...if by chance you did the sears jack mod I posted, you're going to have clearance issues with it for this particular job. Mostly on the front. If you have a J&S, you'll have the same issue. Just the nature of the beast.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,899
Likes: 8
From: Aurora, IL
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