IMO it is best to know exactly what the AFR is during the break in process.

 

I don't see any issue with the dyno procedure, just made me wonder if it was really a good tune since the motor is still not loose yet?
Just not that familiar with dyno work on bikes.

 

Well, if what Kevin Baxter said is correct (and it is pretty much the opinion of my indy in town), I'm feeling pretty good about my break-in. I picked it up at the dealership, and spent the first 40 miles doing exactly what he said, and the AFR sure as hell wasn't rich...it was a stock 2010 Super Glide with factory lean AFR, and a set of catalytic mufflers. At about 350 miles I switched to V&H Straight-Shots, added a pair of XIED's (didn't mess with the AC). I never bothered to get her dyno'd, and don't intend to. She's a light bike, pulls good, and I'm very satisfied with her power and mpg. Runs like a damn top!

 

Hey Don, how about trailoring that thing down to my neck of the woods, and I'll be happy to break it down, or I mean break it in for ya, bud.
Na seriously, might want to give your grandmother a call and see if she's got a couple months she could putt it around town.
Aghhhh well, seriously, think like someone above mentioned man, do not drive it like you stole it, yea I know, your gonna be chasing "tweakins" tail for a little while but I would assume it's gonna be similiar to a car motor build. I'd wanna give myself a good 1000 miles of easy riding, don't lug it and damn sure don't throw many rpm's at it, I'm guessing around 3k shifting points. I think it was mentioned above too, stick with a dyno oil, not the synthetic for the break in, and you'll be sitting good shape man.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

Is that place in Aurora?

I pretty much used the method Mud posted. I wasn't scientific about it or anything, just 3rd and 4th gear acceleration, then closed throttle deceleration and repeated over and over. After that, I just rode, but if I wasn't ACCelerating, I was DECelerating, with the throttle fully closed. After almost 200 miles, I changed the oil, then again at 1000. It doesn't use a drop of oil, but I haven't done a compression test on it, either, which would be a far better indicator if my break in was good or not. It's got about 12,000 on it now.
I followed Harley's method with my last bike, and I had to replace the rings around 5000 miles!

 

for the first 1000 miles i drove the bike like i plan on driving it from now on. every once in a while i would get on it, a total of maybe 2 or 3 times . Couldnt help it, had to you know.... Hope the motor is still good. I dont hear or feel anything strange or different but it may make a differance in the end.

 

No, the tuner is in Beecher,IL and my head guy is in Oak Lawn,IL

 

If you rode it like you planned to ride it all the time, it should be fine. You just don't want to baby it. Steady RPMs for long periods aren't real good, because it doesn't put enough pressure on the rings. The most important part of the break in, is in the first 10 miles, and most new bikes already have close to that sitting on the showroom floor, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. I was lucky when I bought mine, and got to put the first mile on it.

 

[quote=redrubicon2004;6638684] IMO it is best to know exactly what the AFR is during the break in process.[/quo

+1 I agree, I called my dyno guy today and we will break it in on his dyno next Saturday