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My usual "nothing is ever as easy as it should be" luck has struck again. Last year I installed chrome sliders on my bike myself. I don't remember having any issues with any bolts. Well, while at OBX bike week, I developed a fork oil leak and am just now getting around to fixing it. Lifted the bike up, removed the axle covers, removed the axle nut and washers and the next step is to loosen the axle retainer on the right side of the bike before I remove the axle. The service manual does not say what size hex bit to use but it does say metric and I deduced that it's a size 5 hex. I put the bit in one side and it felt kind of loose but appeared to hold but doesn't hold enough to remove the bolt. And I'll be damned if the other bolt isn't the same way. Went down the street and borrowed a #5 from a friend and it does the same thing. A 6 won't fit at all and I can't find anything else in my box that might fit in there a little bit tighter.
I guess I'm going to have to drill these suckers out and then replace them. Does anyone have any better suggestions or any tips on drilling out or otherwise removing somewhat stripped hex head bolts?
either way, I always keep a set of old hex sockets available. If I strip one out, i will go one size bigger, get my old hammer, and hammer the bigger size into the smaller hex area (since its stripped already, not re-useable). It might also help to heat up the area alittle.
I just went through the same thing this past weekend, I hammed in a Torx bit to remove them. Then picked up some new 8mm bolts from a local hardware store that have a larger Allen head.
My usual "nothing is ever as easy as it should be" luck has struck again. Last year I installed chrome sliders on my bike myself. I don't remember having any issues with any bolts. Well, while at OBX bike week, I developed a fork oil leak and am just now getting around to fixing it. Lifted the bike up, removed the axle covers, removed the axle nut and washers and the next step is to loosen the axle retainer on the right side of the bike before I remove the axle. The service manual does not say what size hex bit to use but it does say metric and I deduced that it's a size 5 hex. I put the bit in one side and it felt kind of loose but appeared to hold but doesn't hold enough to remove the bolt. And I'll be damned if the other bolt isn't the same way. Went down the street and borrowed a #5 from a friend and it does the same thing. A 6 won't fit at all and I can't find anything else in my box that might fit in there a little bit tighter.
I guess I'm going to have to drill these suckers out and then replace them. Does anyone have any better suggestions or any tips on drilling out or otherwise removing somewhat stripped hex head bolts?
First check to see if an inch-series socket hex wrench can be made to fit. You might even attempt to carefully modify one using a bench grinder, tapping it into place firmly prior to trying to unscrew it.
A note of caution. Drilling these out yourself could risk damaging the caps, too, or much worse. I would first see if there is someone in your area who does e-lox--some specialize in removing broken/stripped bolts.
Also you might try creating a screwdriver slot by carefully using a small abrasive disc cutoff wheel. This is assuming that there is insufficient head showing to grab with a vise-grip.
When you say hex head, do you mean allen head? I know people use torx bits slightly larger than the allen and pound them into place, then attempt to use an impact driver if all else is lost. Or, they use an easy-out. Have you ever used one of those.
In general, impact and torque, even light but simultaneously, is your friend.
EDIT: right after posting, I saw lo-rider's post:
"Also you might try creating a screwdriver slot by carefully using a small abrasive disc cutoff wheel." That has worked for me in the past as well. Again, use an impact driver once the slot is cut to break it free.
First off, I can't get to the bolt head with vice grips because there is not enough room to get to the entire bolt head. I've already tried cutting a notch in the out side edge of the bolt with a chisel and then hammering a screw driver at an angle to try and turn the bolt - didn't work very well and I'm afraid of damaging the fork slider and the screwdriver keeps slipping out. I would really like to save drilling it as a last resort because that could really screw some expensive stuff up. I also already tried hammering a size 6 bit in the whole but it won't even come close. I'm going to try the torx bit next. It worked for WS6, so maybe I can get it to work.
I don't know if this will work for you as I haven't seen the pieces/parts in question (haven't taken apart my front end yet).
However I've dealt with stripped allen head bolts. If you have a dremel tool read on. I used my dremel tool with a small cylindrical sanding stone attachment to widen allen head bolt to accept the next size bigger allen key. It was snug and I had to tap it in with a hammer but I was able to grind enough away to get the next size key in and remove the bolt.
You can try gripping the head with a pair of channel-locks and loosening them that way.
After that, I'd re-tap it for SAE. Not a project I've done but one less metric wrench to have to carry. That thought just sounds wrong. "I have to carry a 5mm allen in case I need to pull my front wheel."
Vic, that bolt head sits in a curved area that surrounds all but one side of the bolt. There's no way to get a wrench or vice grips around it to get a grip on it. The whole front end is metric and I already have the tools for it since I've taken it all apart once already. And I don't typically carry the tools around for servicing the front end anyway. So, while I think it's crazy to have a US made bike with all US type bolts and parts and then throw an all metric front end on it, I don't plan on retapping any of it. Right now, I'm just concerned with getting these frickin bolts out so I can get my bike back on the road. I've been putting it off until I had half a day available so I'd have plenty of time to get it done. Of course, this shot that down.
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