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another lowering thread

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Old May 5, 2010 | 07:19 AM
  #11  
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HOGRIDA_06
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A 1" spacer in the front lowers the front 2". Mine is lower 1" in the back (progressive 412) and 2" in the front (progressive drop in). I didn't like how my my thunderheader looked saggy so I cut and welded it until I liked it. I don't remember what pipes you have on your bike.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 09:11 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by rounder
there will be a gap between the swingarm and the pipes which is unavoidable. With the bike lowered, the swingarm moves up toward the fender and points to the sky. You can make it so the frame is level and the pipes don't point down, but, the gap will occur unless you get an upturning exhaust, like a thunderheader.
are you saying that regardless of whether or not i lower the front to match the rear, i'm gonna get that swingarm up, pipes down relationship?

i know there will be a gap, but i thought with lowering the front to match, the pipes will sit parallel to the swingarm, underneath it

Originally Posted by jshull
I did progressive 11" 412 hd and the progressive full front lowering kit. I called progressive and the suggested the full front over the drop in, I also changed to SE heavy fork oil, made a huge differnce. but with the big shots on my bike the swing arm points to the sky.
what's the difference between the full front kit and the drop in kit?

Originally Posted by HOGRIDA_06
A 1" spacer in the front lowers the front 2". Mine is lower 1" in the back (progressive 412) and 2" in the front (progressive drop in). I didn't like how my my thunderheader looked saggy so I cut and welded it until I liked it. I don't remember what pipes you have on your bike.
samson street sweepers.

so 11" drops you down 1" in the back. good to know.

would i need to lower 1" in the front to make it level?
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #13  
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I think 2" in the front is the right number to get the frame rails parallel to the street after dropping 1" in the rear. I believe we're a little off at stock. Once you lower the rear there's not much you can do to get the swing arm back to parallel.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 01:40 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by HOGRIDA_06
I think 2" in the front is the right number to get the frame rails parallel to the street after dropping 1" in the rear. I believe we're a little off at stock. Once you lower the rear there's not much you can do to get the swing arm back to parallel.
thanks hogrida.
 
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Old May 5, 2010 | 02:54 PM
  #15  
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I used the 1" lowering blocks which should lower the rear about same as going with the 11" shock. I put on the progressive drop in kit at the same time. Its easy to fine tune the amount you lower the front by trimming the pvc spacer to the desired lenght. I started with a 1" drop in the front (2" long spacer) but ended up trimming about another 1/4" off that to get the stance I wanted..... so in the end I guess I dropped the front 1 and 1/4" to match the 1" drop in the rear. I may still go down another 1/4" but you can see from my sig pic that the bike is sitting pretty level.
 

Last edited by CRF; May 5, 2010 at 03:10 PM.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by toastman
are you saying that regardless of whether or not i lower the front to match the rear, i'm gonna get that swingarm up, pipes down relationship?
the swingarm will be up, however lowering the front and rear will get the frame parallel to the ground and the pipes will maintain their angle to the frame. Like hogrida's is. The frame is parallel, the swingarm points up. And from the factory, the bike actually is not level, the front is a little higher than the rear. An 11" shock lowers the bike about 1.5" or so. The 2" drop on the front will probably get the frame more true to parallel with the ground.
 
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