Big spark plug problem!!!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,419
Likes: 1
From: Ashland Ore.
Put some anti seize on them when you put them back in.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,027
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From: Grapevine Texas
All of the above is spot on, changing spark plugs is in itself a breeze, but there are so many things to consider when doing it. I've seen guys change em or check em after running a motor, never, pull a plug when it's not room temp, the heads expand and contract and you are asking for trouble. Most guys don't use anti seize, always use it when putting it back in. I've seen guys put em in too tight, and down the road, snapped the insulator off leaving the core still in the head, man, it can be removed and cleaned up but you gotta be real careful. And always to avoid stripping em on installation, either brush old plugs with wire brush to remove old crud or install new ones with anti seize and start em by hand til you get a couple threads on. I've seen em installed with a spark plug wrench with the rubber gasket holding em and that's fine as long as your turning it by hand not a ratchet. Good Luck man, be careful.
As a side note if you wanted to be extra extra extra careful, do you happen to know anybody with a boroscope, some folks do and that would remove any doubt as to remnants inside.
As a side note if you wanted to be extra extra extra careful, do you happen to know anybody with a boroscope, some folks do and that would remove any doubt as to remnants inside.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Marina del Rey
limitations
It can be saved--just don't make it any worse.
Advanced
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 58
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From: Antioch,Ca
BTW as everyone has said it is a delicate process. What no one has said yet is that when you use a tap after every turn or so you have to back the tap off about a 1/4 turn or so to release any material that has been cut.Good luck and if you don't feel comfortable doing any of this seek out a pro !
Rich
Rich
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Thanks for all the help guys. I got lucky and one of the mechanics at the Ford dealership I work at had the thread chAser I needed. Looked worse than it was. It literally took me 10 minutes and done. JUst cleaned up the threads, really very little shavings. Smoked alittle from the oil I used to catch the shavings but Good as New.
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made out good. tech where I work had the chaser I needed. It really wasn't that bad. oil'd everything up to catch the shavings, to which there wasn't very many and the plug went back in like butter. Thanks for all the input. Thought I was in for an expensive one.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 467
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From: Lancs, England
Sorry to disagree but don't put anything on plug threads before putting them plug back in. Torque values for plugs are usually for a dry thread, if you lube them up in any way you'll over torque them. Put them in dry, torque them up and change / inspect at the specified intervals and you'll not have any bother getting them out when the time comes.
Another reason for not putting anything on plug threads (unless specified by the maker - which is very rare) is that it can encourage hard carbon deposit built up on the end of the plug threads, which can damage the female thread - especially in a soft alloy head - when you remove the plug.
Derv
Another reason for not putting anything on plug threads (unless specified by the maker - which is very rare) is that it can encourage hard carbon deposit built up on the end of the plug threads, which can damage the female thread - especially in a soft alloy head - when you remove the plug.
Derv
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I thought of that with the oil on the threads I put a cheap set of stock harley plugs in there to run for a bit then I'll replace them with the double platinum ones. Thanks for the tip though
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Banned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,403
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From: Southwest Florida
Sorry to disagree but don't put anything on plug threads before putting them plug back in. Torque values for plugs are usually for a dry thread, if you lube them up in any way you'll over torque them. Put them in dry, torque them up and change / inspect at the specified intervals and you'll not have any bother getting them out when the time comes.
Another reason for not putting anything on plug threads (unless specified by the maker - which is very rare) is that it can encourage hard carbon deposit built up on the end of the plug threads, which can damage the female thread - especially in a soft alloy head - when you remove the plug.
Derv
Another reason for not putting anything on plug threads (unless specified by the maker - which is very rare) is that it can encourage hard carbon deposit built up on the end of the plug threads, which can damage the female thread - especially in a soft alloy head - when you remove the plug.
Derv
I don't buy it. Not for a second. In the old days, when most heads were made of steel (iron, actually) you could probably get away with it. Steel plug, steel head -- No conflicts there. Plus, the threads in the iron head were much stronger.
But today's heads are aluminum, for the most part. Steel plug, aluminum head? Those two metals don't like each other very much.
http://www.berridge.com/Preventing%20Electrolysis.pdf
Electrolytic Corrosion (Electrolysis) occurs when
dissimilar metals are in contact in the presence of an
electrolyte, such as water (moisture) containing very
small amounts of acid. The dissimilar metals set up a
galvanic action that results in the deterioration of one of
them. The following is a list of the more common
commercial metals, sequenced according to what is
known as the "Galvanic Series":
dissimilar metals are in contact in the presence of an
electrolyte, such as water (moisture) containing very
small amounts of acid. The dissimilar metals set up a
galvanic action that results in the deterioration of one of
them. The following is a list of the more common
commercial metals, sequenced according to what is
known as the "Galvanic Series":
THE GALVANIC SERIES
1. Aluminum 7. Tin
2. Zinc 8. Lead
3. Steel 9. Brass
4. Iron 10. Copper
5. Nickel 11. Bronze
6. Stainless Steel 400 12. StainlessSteel300
Series Series
1. Aluminum 7. Tin
2. Zinc 8. Lead
3. Steel 9. Brass
4. Iron 10. Copper
5. Nickel 11. Bronze
6. Stainless Steel 400 12. StainlessSteel300
Series Series
When any two metals in this list are in contact, with
an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is
corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals
an electrolytic present, the one with the lower number is
corroded. The galvanic action increases as the metals
are farther apart in the Galvanic Series.
G: As we all know, water (moisture) is formed in the combustion chamber of all internal combustion engines. And bad things can happen when the plugs seize to the heads. Like -- ?? Stripped threads in the heads, because the aluminum is much softer.
You DO have to be careful not to smear the electrodes with never seize and that you don't put so much on that it drips between the gaps, but..... Some common sense goes a long way.
There is another argument about the use of regular aluminum-based never seize and the higher-temp, better conducting copper based. I guess, if you're **** you can use the copper stuff. But some people call that a bunch of 'pants' as Brits are wont to say.
As far as the never seize affecting torque readings? More pants? Methinks --
Banned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,403
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From: Southwest Florida
I also don't like re-installing plugs back into a motor if that particular plug has a 'compression ring' on it. IMHO only, I think plugs with compression rings are one-time-use only and should be replaced when they're pulled out.
That's also a raging argument with many wrenches coming down on the side against me.
Like I've said before, I don't have OCD. Besides the letters are arranged wrong, it should be ODC.
I bought an inch/pound torque wrench because I intend on doing most of my own service work. I paid a whopping $19.95 for it. Sure, it's a cheap sumbeach, but it'll still get me closer than "finger tight, then 1/4 to 1/2 turn".
I have a couple of foot/pound torque wrenches, but I don't trust either of them below about 30 ft-lbs. Yeah, they're cheap, too. But it's not like I'm putting together an F1 motor or anything. And if I need a really good one once every five years, I can borrow one.
P.S. 1 foot pound = 12 Inch pounds. Who'd a thunk it?