performance gains question
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Hey Big, keep in mind if a dealer reflashes your ECM he will more than likely keep the mix EPA compliant, in other words LEAN, this will generate some warm temps off the cylinders. If you can find an indy to adjust the ECM to a slightly rich mix this will help out greatly. Good luck.
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Joined: May 2010
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The dealer is sending the bike to an indy for the tune part of the job. Is there a percentage I should ask for on the richness? Can they also drop the idle a little with the tuner? I would like to hear it about 200 rpm lower.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
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From: Passaic County, NJ
For the Fi bikes, an idle of no less than 950 is preferred to keep oil pressure up. It is possible to adjust it. Ask them about it.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 2
Performance means many things. I have always done brakes first. No point in going fast............once. Then handling. No sense in going fast........to the first corner. Then engine, if necessary.
You will get maximum bang for the buck by lightening the bike. And the place that makes the most difference is the wheels. They have to be accelerated down the road like any other part of the bike, they have to be spun up to speed, too. Then your brakes have to stop the mass like any other part of the bike and they also have to reduce the rotating inertia. Your suspension has to fight to control them and keep them in contact with the ground. They act as gyros to resist steering and lean input. Less mass improves performance in all of these conditions. Especially mass farthest from the axle.
Just like with racing sailboats, you want to keep "the ends light". Mass centralization.
Then reduce the mass of anything that reciprocates, then anything that rotates, then anything at all. You won't get there in one big step, it's about little bites. Begrudge every gram.
You will get maximum bang for the buck by lightening the bike. And the place that makes the most difference is the wheels. They have to be accelerated down the road like any other part of the bike, they have to be spun up to speed, too. Then your brakes have to stop the mass like any other part of the bike and they also have to reduce the rotating inertia. Your suspension has to fight to control them and keep them in contact with the ground. They act as gyros to resist steering and lean input. Less mass improves performance in all of these conditions. Especially mass farthest from the axle.
Just like with racing sailboats, you want to keep "the ends light". Mass centralization.
Then reduce the mass of anything that reciprocates, then anything that rotates, then anything at all. You won't get there in one big step, it's about little bites. Begrudge every gram.
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Posts: n/a
Performance means many things. I have always done brakes first. No point in going fast............once. Then handling. No sense in going fast........to the first corner. Then engine, if necessary.
You will get maximum bang for the buck by lightening the bike. And the place that makes the most difference is the wheels. They have to be accelerated down the road like any other part of the bike, they have to be spun up to speed, too. Then your brakes have to stop the mass like any other part of the bike and they also have to reduce the rotating inertia. Your suspension has to fight to control them and keep them in contact with the ground. They act as gyros to resist steering and lean input. Less mass improves performance in all of these conditions. Especially mass farthest from the axle.
Just like with racing sailboats, you want to keep "the ends light". Mass centralization.
Then reduce the mass of anything that reciprocates, then anything that rotates, then anything at all. You won't get there in one big step, it's about little bites. Begrudge every gram.
You will get maximum bang for the buck by lightening the bike. And the place that makes the most difference is the wheels. They have to be accelerated down the road like any other part of the bike, they have to be spun up to speed, too. Then your brakes have to stop the mass like any other part of the bike and they also have to reduce the rotating inertia. Your suspension has to fight to control them and keep them in contact with the ground. They act as gyros to resist steering and lean input. Less mass improves performance in all of these conditions. Especially mass farthest from the axle.
Just like with racing sailboats, you want to keep "the ends light". Mass centralization.
Then reduce the mass of anything that reciprocates, then anything that rotates, then anything at all. You won't get there in one big step, it's about little bites. Begrudge every gram.
The best performance advice yet on this thread! Exactly right. Remember, every five pounds removed equals one horsepower in performance (roughly). So, rather than spend a bunch of money on adding parts, my wife and I went on a diet, lost a combined 150 pounds, and the bike is tons faster, and runs cooler.
Since you aren't asking about performance, though, the SE will probably not be loud enough to be heard through a FF helmet. You can gut them, but you will have to have a tuner on it in order to keep the motor happy if you do, and you will lose performance even with the tune. I know you say you don't care, but dropping from 65-70 HP to 55-60 is a really BAD thing. Get some V&H short shots, or Cycle Shack drags/baffles, or a Thunderheader. Any of these options would be loud enough for you, and would provide a substantial increase in power and drivability (once tuned).
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,718
Likes: 11
From: Back in the Good Ole USA. South Carolina to be exact.
The best performance advice yet on this thread! Exactly right. Remember, every five pounds removed equals one horsepower in performance (roughly). So, rather than spend a bunch of money on adding parts, my wife and I went on a diet, lost a combined 150 pounds, and the bike is tons faster, and runs cooler.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
I know for a fact i'm asking stupid questions. It's ok, but I didn't mean any offence to you.
All i want for now is to be able to hear my exhaust going down the interstate for the most part to be honest with ya. I hate the Prius sound of the stock pipes.
Yes the dyno tune and all the parts are worked in to my deal.
Thanks again guys
All i want for now is to be able to hear my exhaust going down the interstate for the most part to be honest with ya. I hate the Prius sound of the stock pipes.
Yes the dyno tune and all the parts are worked in to my deal.
Thanks again guys
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