anybody have kuryakyn forward controls?
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 43
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From: Madill, OK
anybody have kuryakyn forward controls?
I have a 2007 super glide custom. I want to put forward controls on it. I have decided on the kuryakyns, because i can put them on myself. I just need to know if i should get the standards or the extended +3 inches? I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam. i read that the extended are for 34" or more? I do have highway pegs and those are great, but I know the forward controls sit different. If anyone has any suggestions or PICS it would be greatly appreciated!
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Lilesville
I have the same bike (minus the custom), and have the +3 forwards on them. I am 6'2 and they fit me perfect. The only gripe that I have with the Kuryakyns is that the little rubber pads keep coming off of the brake pedal. The last time I used JB weld and they have held on so far, but I would go with the +3's if I were you. I think they are a perfect fit for a guy with a 34 inseam.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
I have a 2007 super glide custom. I want to put forward controls on it. I have decided on the kuryakyns, because i can put them on myself. I just need to know if i should get the standards or the extended +3 inches? I'm 6'2" with a 34" inseam. i read that the extended are for 34" or more? I do have highway pegs and those are great, but I know the forward controls sit different. If anyone has any suggestions or PICS it would be greatly appreciated!
You can install any forward control kit by yourself, none of them need to have the primary removed to install (See Below).
Sit on a 2010 Wide Glide, and if that is comfortable then you won't need the extended kit.
You will find that the highway pegs are higher up then the forward controls.
Originally Posted by WS6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&ASSORTMEN T%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1224980167820 &bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&bmUID=1224980000342&bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&ASSORTMEN T%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1224980167820 &bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=25343743 02291395&bmUID=1224980000342&bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
.
Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 316
Likes: 2
really?
after 2006 the primary hade to come off.
I've done 100 sets of them.
The older dynas you didn't have to.
Now they do it so you take the stock shifter out of the primary and
they have plugs for it.
Sounds like misleading information.
Check the harley p@a catalog.
BTW kuryakyn is cheap crap.
8 years at the dealer tells me so.
after 2006 the primary hade to come off.
I've done 100 sets of them.
The older dynas you didn't have to.
Now they do it so you take the stock shifter out of the primary and
they have plugs for it.
Sounds like misleading information.
Check the harley p@a catalog.
BTW kuryakyn is cheap crap.
8 years at the dealer tells me so.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
really?
after 2006 the primary hade to come off.
I've done 100 sets of them.
The older dynas you didn't have to.
Now they do it so you take the stock shifter out of the primary and
they have plugs for it.
Sounds like misleading information.
Check the harley p@a catalog.
BTW kuryakyn is cheap crap.
8 years at the dealer tells me so.
after 2006 the primary hade to come off.
I've done 100 sets of them.
The older dynas you didn't have to.
Now they do it so you take the stock shifter out of the primary and
they have plugs for it.
Sounds like misleading information.
Check the harley p@a catalog.
BTW kuryakyn is cheap crap.
8 years at the dealer tells me so.
The trick to it is that you have to be able to think for yourself, instead of just following Harley Davidson instruction's.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 1
From: England via the US
I have the standard Kuryakyn set. I'm 6' with about a 32" inseem and they are comfortable for me. I installed them myself but haven't removed the shifter shaft. Just wedged it behind a bolt on the motor. I figure I'll remove it when I eventually have to tear apart the primary for the IPB replacement.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Lilesville
Agreed, I did not remove the inner primary. Just a little hacksaw work and some RTV and you are good to go.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 316
Likes: 2
don't take offense because I suspect you must be a hacker.
I just do things my way, the correct way, the way I learned.
The backyard stuff people do to their bikes sickens me.
You may not have to if you install the older kit, why you would want to do that I wouldn't know. you end up taking the outer off to cut your old shift shaft right?
So why not pull it all the way apart and use the part that was made for the bike, unless you don't know how which is fine but don't hack things up.
RTV=a hackers best friend. God awful and starts leaking with a season.
I just believe if you're going to do it, do it the correct way. it's not a $300 honda you're riding, it's a Harley.
You've got a real hodge podge of parts going on there. the older 05 kit bolts the shifter that goes through the primary to the back lower engine case bolt.
You guys are the ones who keep me working!!!
I just do things my way, the correct way, the way I learned.
The backyard stuff people do to their bikes sickens me.
You may not have to if you install the older kit, why you would want to do that I wouldn't know. you end up taking the outer off to cut your old shift shaft right?
So why not pull it all the way apart and use the part that was made for the bike, unless you don't know how which is fine but don't hack things up.
RTV=a hackers best friend. God awful and starts leaking with a season.
I just believe if you're going to do it, do it the correct way. it's not a $300 honda you're riding, it's a Harley.
You've got a real hodge podge of parts going on there. the older 05 kit bolts the shifter that goes through the primary to the back lower engine case bolt.
You guys are the ones who keep me working!!!
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Lilesville
I understand your point of view, but a hacker I am not. And as far as leaking in one season, please. If you do it correctly it will not leak. I do not know any real mechanics out there who do not use RTV. Are you telling me that you do not use it or gasket sealer on any bikes you work on? I have been making a living (and a pretty good one) for over 20 years as a mechanic. While I am not a Harley mechanic or a $300 Honda mechanic, I work on Million dollar gas turbines for a living, which requires a little more attention to detail than a Harley does. There is not much of a difference between a hack and someone who has to open a service manual every time they grab a wrench. I respect the fact that you do follow the service manuals, because those are invaluable for someone with the lack of experience or mechanical knowledge to do simple tasks that can cause catastrophic damage. What I did and quite a few others on here saves a tremendous amount of time, and done properly is very safe and reliable. I put my forwards on 3 years ago, and have had zero issues with them or the rest of the maintenance on my scoot.
Last edited by uneasy_rider; Jun 6, 2010 at 06:24 PM.
