Okay, I posted a few weeks back on my install of pipes Rb Racing lsr 2-1's


And Install of TTS Mastertune


So I have learned much, and have much to learn but here's my experience up to now.
My first data collection ride was pathetic. After trying different configs of where and how to place my laptop while collecting data, my bags didn't work, so had to use sissy bar in computer bag bungeed, I had a 1/2 charged laptop that didn't last a long ride, so I had to cut it to about 20 minutes of riding. Threw that ride in the trash and then went on my second ride.


I really did not cover a wide range of data points so this ride was pretty much a waste.

Third ride, was a long one, tried to cover larger areas of low rpm/high rpm/ and different tps positions, it was better. This was also my ride, I ran out of gas, I was so focused on the throttle and positions/rpms, my dumb self wasn't paying attention to my fuel gauge.

Better, but still a number of red blocks, which means I didn't get into the areas long enough to collect any useable data. It's all damn guesswork unless you can see the results as their happening. Ahhhhaaa. My next ride, I chose to do about midnight, just me and the drunks out, much cooler for my laptop and I can go slow, and fast, and not have to worry about traffic. I also wrapped some towels around my laptop, and placed it behind the windshield, with a couple pieces of painters blue tape just for extra security.
fired it up and rode, now this was working, and working well, I could put the x's in the boxes I needed and hold it for as long as it needed to turn the box green. On the freeway, on the side streets, it all came together now.

This is more like it, you want to see the little blue blips on the edges of your power curves, which I have on this run and really not much of the red.
So after letting the software convert this run/file to a ecm/flashable map, here is my latest map.


Yellow around the very outside edges is good, you shouldn't have what's considered complete data at 7000rpm or 100%tps, at least not on a harley anyway.
Majority of the cells white show no huge changes, and very very little pink, with no red is extremely good.
If this was on a true dyno, no pink cells would be evident, and the yellow cells would be a little bit farther out but not much so it is pretty close.

Since my 30T upgrade, speedo is off by 2-8mph, not any more with this little gem that's part of the tts software

Just put in 30t instead of my stock 32t and it calculates it for you. When I change my tires out I will probably go up one size and it takes care of that too.

In the end , I'm pleased, damn pleased with this unit. Takes some patience and there is so much more timing/spark control/knock retard,idle,heat management, air compression release, different cams, etc.....
I feel like I have brought the dealer ship to me, instead of me going to the dealership and I can take my time, get it right, and take more time and get it mo right,haha.
So a big thumbs up from me on this setup.

 

Very cool, thanks for the review. How did your bike run with just the base map before you made any changes and which base map did you use? I think when I was looking through TTS maps on their site there was a map for stage one intake, but nothing for any specific exhuast systems. Just wondering how well their stage one map works out of the box before tweaking it compared to say a dealer stage one download.

 

Very interesting, unfortunately I cannot see your pics, has to w/the firewall here at work. There is a great deal of personal satisfaction figuring this stuff out and doing it yourself.

I have a tach, so I try to roll through a broad range of rpms at various throttle positions and I try to be smooth rolling on and off the throttle.

I posted some of my experience tuning w/my SESTP in the Electrical/Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection area. I'd be interested in your thoughts.

 

In my case I used caa176-02B1
1580 stage II
25 deg injectors
A/C and breather kit
.550 lift 211/235 duration cam
Rb racing 2-1 exhaust

The software allows you to tweak some of the precanned maps. For instance I don't have a 1580 (96) motor, I went in and told it I have a 88 1450 motor.
25 deg injectors I do have. A/C and breather kit, I do have. Rb racing 2-1 exhaust, I do have. What I don't have is a cam other than stock, so I trial and errored that one. My thought was it's gonna run a little hot so I bumped my fuel tables up to 681 across the board, and not get into too hard so it would detect my lack of cam on the first run and I could make adjustments as needed.
As I figured I had a case of the wet farts on my first run, a good bit of decel pop, otherwise I think it ran okay. It was the closest I could start with for an 06 fuel injected closed loop map, in my case they say to use the 07 maps for 06 dynas since they were the 02 sensor models. They don't show a ton of maps for 2-1, just some, but a crap load of ^&* shortshots and others. I'm sure their stage one map will get you going if you a lacking either the intak or exhaust, they have a ton of maps on the help file that comes with the software, not sure if it's more updated than website.

 

You might be able to compare some of your tables to my last one when you get home on your pc. You are ahead of me on this learning curve though, because I looked at your post and I havent dove into timing adjustments yet. I have to study up more on the relationships with the timing/spark/and airfuelratios. I can see your case of dropping the standard 14.6 lower, but I don't know enough yet on the timing adjustments to put up good info. That's part of the reason I bought it though, because I want to know more of that stuff so when it's tuned, and I mean tuned right, I won't have to be posting on here how I just spent 350 at the dealer to get a tune with a decel pop, and I'm allready past any of those issues.
I do agree when you get your fatcat, you need to return the adjustments to 14.6 across the board and undo your timing changes, if your programmer is similiar to the tts you disable a whole lot of stuff for tuning runs, like knock retard, accel/decel enrichment, so you don't contaminate tuning data with ecm corrections, you just want raw readings.

 

Thanks for the write-up. I've been reading up on this and I would really like to swap my PCIII for one of these.

 

When I upload a calibration I have a box I can check that this is for a Smart Tune. Doing this sets up the AFR tables at 14.6 so the O2 sensors can do their thing. I'm pretty sure I'll have to manually set the timing map back to the base settings for the Smart Tune.

I'm thinking when I've done all I can do and finally get it on a Dyno I'll have laid the ground work and it'll take less time to really dial it in.

How do you like that RB pipe, I'd like to see a better pic of it.

 

Would you mind detailing exactly what you did to get such a good data run at the end, other than having the laptop visible? What speeds/gears were you doing to get so far right and down in the table? I'm guessing you were going really fast?

Thanks,
matt

 

Ok, home so I could see the pics. Including the pipe. Looks good.

 

Wouldnt map 141nx104 be closer to what you got? 1450, closed loop/02 sensors, intake/exhuast, 25 deg injectors. even though its for intake and slipons Im thinking the different exhaust would have less impact than a map designed for different cams.