Clutch Adjustment
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 2
Clutch adjust
I don't know what the manual calls for, but I've always done it this way.
Loosen the inline adjuster and screw the two ends together several revolutions to get slack in the cable.
Loosen the adjuster nut in the pressure plate.
Remove the socket from the ratchet and put it over the adjuster locknut against the pressure plate. Hold it with your fingers. Put the allen screw through the square hole in the socket and run the adjuster screw in all the way until it bottoms, then run it in a turn more. It will lift the pressure plate a little. Back it out until the tension relaxes, then in and out gently to find the point where the adjuster just lightly bottoms on the clutch rod that runs through the center of the mainshaft. Once you find that, back it out 270 degrees. Hold the allen in place so that the adjuster doesn't move, and use your fingers on the socket to snug the locknut against the pressure plate. Remove the allen and tighten the locknut with the ratchet.
Unscrew the inline adjuster until you get about a 1/4" of free movement at the BALL END of the lever, plus or minus a little to suit your taste. Tighten the locknut. No need to grunt on it. There needs to be a little free play in the cable when you're done. (Lube the pivots in the lever and smear a bit of anti-seize on the threads of the inline adjuster.....will save hassle later.)
Works for me.
Loosen the inline adjuster and screw the two ends together several revolutions to get slack in the cable.
Loosen the adjuster nut in the pressure plate.
Remove the socket from the ratchet and put it over the adjuster locknut against the pressure plate. Hold it with your fingers. Put the allen screw through the square hole in the socket and run the adjuster screw in all the way until it bottoms, then run it in a turn more. It will lift the pressure plate a little. Back it out until the tension relaxes, then in and out gently to find the point where the adjuster just lightly bottoms on the clutch rod that runs through the center of the mainshaft. Once you find that, back it out 270 degrees. Hold the allen in place so that the adjuster doesn't move, and use your fingers on the socket to snug the locknut against the pressure plate. Remove the allen and tighten the locknut with the ratchet.
Unscrew the inline adjuster until you get about a 1/4" of free movement at the BALL END of the lever, plus or minus a little to suit your taste. Tighten the locknut. No need to grunt on it. There needs to be a little free play in the cable when you're done. (Lube the pivots in the lever and smear a bit of anti-seize on the threads of the inline adjuster.....will save hassle later.)
Works for me.
Thread Starter
|
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 168
From: Knoxville, Tn
Clutch
I don't know what it was but I am glad I finally got it worked out. I was frustrating to say the least. I tried a lot of different methods: bottoming out the adjustment screw inside the derby, backing the adjustment screw almost all the way out, screwing the adjuster screw just till the lever starts to come away from the bar then backing it off 1/2 turn, etc. Seem like everything was good each time until I started to adjust the tension/free play on the lever.
Wide Glyde Bry, I did pull the lever hard, out of frustration and it pulled the ramp, what I would call, over center. I had to take the trans door/cover off to reposition it, another pain in the butt. What finally worked was to back the adjuster way out and screw it in until I felt the slightest resistance and back it out 270 degrees.
Thank you all !
Wide Glyde Bry, I did pull the lever hard, out of frustration and it pulled the ramp, what I would call, over center. I had to take the trans door/cover off to reposition it, another pain in the butt. What finally worked was to back the adjuster way out and screw it in until I felt the slightest resistance and back it out 270 degrees.
Thank you all !
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 24
From: Minden LA
ok go back to the screw and jam nut on the clutch, back it out untill it turns free with your fingers. now screw it back in (with your fingers) until you feel resistence then back off 1/2 turn and tighten the jam nut holding the allen in place then go to the cable to get your 1/8-1/4" free play on the lever. It sounds like you may have screwed the clutch screw all the way in with the allen then backed it off. you just want to take up the freeplay of the shaft, that is why you just use your fingers to find the resistence
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 12
From: Out on Deranged
I had the same thing happen to me last year. the lever only coming in half way. The end of the clutch cable wasn't sitting right at the lever taking up alot of the slack obliging me to over adjust the clutch pack.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
