I just bought a 07 street bob.. it had 4300km's on it when I bought it.. I flew and picked it up and rode it 700km back home. got it home and started getting a grinding coming from my starter.. let off the starter and try again it was fine... it got worse.. so i just pulled the starter on it.. the pinion on the starter is torn up a slightly.. Decided to check my ring gear by pulling the primary cover.. 6 teeth gone.. 2 in one spot.. and the other four are gone in random places.. Half moons are took out of the teeth except for where the 2 in a row are gone.. they are pretty much sheared right off.. any idea what would cause this... i dont want to replace the ring gear and pinion in vein and have it happen again.. please help. is it possible the starter is not fully engaging??

 

is the motor stock..? reason im asking is cuz if it has higher compression than stock could be kicking the starter back..could be prev owner hit the start button on accident a couple times while the bike was runnin

 

"starter bang" seems to be a bit more common on the newer bikes

I believe newer bikes are a 10/102 setup, correct? Those teeth are WEAK

once you verify that you don't have compression or timing or other issues that would cause kickback, consider upgrading to a 10/84 or 9/66 setup

I installed a 9/66 setup purchased from BKRider. The parts are "DBI" and would likely be called "cheap asian crap" but they are identical to my friends Primo 9/66 setup and I suspect are the same. I haven't had mine that long but the cranking difference is quite noticeable

also...my stock 10/102...there were a couple teeth missing from the ring gear and it would skip and bang sometimes and obviously make things worse. Haven't missed a single start since putting in the 9/66 (aside from an unrelated sticky jackshaft issue)

 

hey...is 07 one of the years that had the primary cover alignment issues? If so, could that cause pinion gear misalignment?

try disconnecting power, pulling on the jackshaft...does the pinion gear mesh completely with the ring gear?

 

i took the starter out before pulling on the jackshaft..it seems fine.. although there is an 8th of inch or so on end of the ring gear that looks like it never seen the pinion. im not sure if that is normal or not.. the pinion is tapered a bit on the end so that might explain it.... Ill admit.. this is my first harley and the other day i did hit the starter once by mistake when the bike was at idle while reaching for the kill switch.. But i honestly dont think that would do this much damage..then again who knows how much the girl that owned it did that.. as for engine mods.. it only has an air cleaner and a set of slip on's.. plus the FI download..

i will stick the starter on tomorrow and pull the jackshaft.. in the mean time im gonna check on the parts at harley tomorrow.

what is the procedure to remove the ring gear? and im gonna need torque specs on all this when it goes back together..

 

took the starter out? That wouldn't tell you much about the alignment.

might be a tad off. The general consensus is that there should be about .125 "air gap" when everything is assembled and snugged, meaning the gap between the pinion gear and ring gear should be no more than .125. I was told .100 is the minimum

unlikely that one goof like that would chew up the assembly.

Then you don't have to worry about compression

before you put the starter back on, grab the starter shaft and turn it by hand. Does it turn freely one way and then lock the other, or will it turn freely both ways? Since you already have it off, perhaps have it tested at the Stealer (usually no charge) before putting it back on

AND...personally I wouldn't buy the parts from them. The ring gear is rivted on to the clutch and they'll want to sell you a whole new unit

here's what I have:

http://www.bkrider.com/bkrider/skuse...eria=C01110114

http://www.bkrider.com/bkrider/skuse...eria=C01060398

I am not positive about fitment for your bike. Check the outer primary bushing, etc.

[/quote]what is the procedure to remove the ring gear? and im gonna need torque specs on all this when it goes back together..[/QUOTE]

The ring gear you pull the clutch and drill out the rivet heads them pop them with a punch. The aftermarket ring gears are bolt on. Torque...I think it was about 35 foot pounds with red threadlock.

Clutch nut is 80 foot pounds. Comp nut used to be 165 but there's a new procedure for your bike. You might want to look into the comp nut shim, too? Someone else can chime in here if that's necessary on your model.

It's starting to sound complicated, I know. Sorry. It's really not that hard. I just did darn near everything you're doing with zero prior experience

one other thing...you absolutely need a factory manual for your bike. not a clymer or other. A harley one.

 

CM where are you located?

also...reading your first post...it almost sounds like you pulled the starter before pulling the primary? That's...impossible

 

I did pull the starter before the primary. It just unbolted and slid right out. Oh and I'm located in eastern Canada. I'm gonna order a manual today and check on some after market parts. The dealer wanted 800 for the ring gear. Well its all one piece that they have.

 

Not sure why you're getting no other responses on this, but...

If the part in bold is true...there's something wrong. The starter bolts through the transmission plate into mounting bosses on the back of the inner primary, AND the jackshaft assembly slides through the inner primary from the inside and is bolted to the starter output shaft using a 10-32 or 1/4-20 screw.

I am not familiar with your model bike in the slightest, but as far as I know every single Harley starter assembly works this exact same way. To remove the starter you should have to first drain the primary, remove the outer primary cover, unthread the starter jackshaft bolt and THEN the starter can be removed.

I can't for the life of me think of how else it would work but like I said I'm not familiar with a street bob

assuming this is "your" bike (found pic on the net)



that primary looks identical to every other Harley I've ever seen except of course for open belt drives, and even then the starter jackshaft assembly is bolted to the starter output shaft and the pinion gear would prevent the starter from being removed without first disassembling the jackshaft

every one I've seen looks like this:



left to right: starter coupling, jackshaft, jackshaft coupling, spring, pinion gear, thrust washer, lock tab, bolt.

When you unbolted the starter, did it come off the bike with nothing on the output shaft, or just the coupling?

I'm almost thinking that your jackshaft bolt had come loose allowing the pinion gear to bounce around and that could easily tear up the ring gear and pinion gear. It could still start as the alignment bushing in the outer primary would keep it in place when engaged, but once it retracted it would float freely in the coupling.

Dunno, man...really not sure what's going on

as for the manual...it is a must and...eight hundred for the RING GEAR?

something funky goin on here, my friend. No way in hell a starter ring gear costs $800. Maybe the dealer tried to sell you a complete Screamin Eagle clutch assembly? No idea whatsoever

either way...once you figure out how things are supposed to go together, definitely get either a 10/84 pinion/ring setup or a 9/66. The teeth on both are much stronger than the stock 10/102 and will also make the starter's job easier due to the gear ratio change

compufire, primo and others do both setups, but those links I provided are the best prices I've seen for a 9/66 setup and like I said I have those exact parts in my bike and they were quality built and I'm 100% confident they will last me.

I asked about your location cuz if you happened to be anywhere near me I could give you a hand, but you're not. No sweat, though. This forum is chock full of knowledge. It's not a "hard" job with the manual and proper tools, and plenty of folks here willing to help out.

 

Here's the compufire page with the 10/84 setup.

http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html

just scroll down a little

"The Compu-Fire 1084 gear sets are engineered to increase the starter motor torque by lowering the gear ratio of the pinion gear to the clutch ring gear. When used as a replacement for the 9:66 ratio gear sets, a 15% increase in torque is obtained. They are also used as replacements for the weak 10:102 ratio gear sets which are prone to breaking on late model Big Twins."

that setup can be found online and is around $150. Says for 98-06 but some other links I found just said "98 and up"

I do not know for absolute sure that the 9/66 parts I linked will work with your setup. The clutch diameter where the ring gear slides on is the key measurement.

Also here's the Rivera Primo catalog page with their offerings. Also says up to 2006 Maybe there's something different?

http://www.primobeltdrives.com/html/...ON%20GEARS.pdf

Someone with a newer SB oughta pop in

if not...if you can provide a pic of your clutch assembly we can figure it out