Definitely get the remap. It raises the limit from 5500 to 6200 rpm, advances the timing and adjusts the map for higher VE of the air intake. Make no mistake, you will not get the full benefit of the stage 1 unless you remap. The stock settings can only adjust a little and can not cover the larger VE. Remember, the stage 1 is for slip on mufflers while a full exhaust will change performance for better or worse. Those fat short pipes kill bottom end where most riding is done.

 

Just to mention that you don't need to revisit the dyno when using the TTS kit or the newer SESPT. You use a couple hours of sweat equity to ride and calibrate the bike's VE, or redial when you make a change. Works better on the street than the auto tuners and you don't have to deal with their problems and instal hassles and extra cash outlay. You usually have to tweak the auto tuners to get them to run best anyway, but if you are a hands off guy that changes things on a whim then they could be right for you.

 

Consensus here is that for the money it costs for a remap you are more than half way to a tuner that is worth the cash. If you are spending all that cash on stage 1 hardware, why not spend enough to make the bike run right... otherwise just ride what you got. A decent tuner in the hands of a novice will increase the stock bikes street performance more than adding stage 1 equipment with HD remap download and for a lot less money.

The HD factory remaps don't buy you anything worthwhile besides setting things back to factory calibrations. If you want full benefit from stage 1 modification dollars, you need to tune the bike. A canned MAP won't cut it, especially one with HD constraints.

The "little" adjustment capability is BS, the Delphi ECU has a 20% range.... but I hear you may bump into these limits with the more sophisticated exhaust and intake systems.

There is a bit of torque impact bottom end that is worth the sound, but killing is way too strong a statement, the factory download does nothing there anyway. There are better ways to adjust that rev limiter for racing purposes.

 

Here's my $.02 I bought new high flow AC and PC III tuner from Fuel Moto (site sponsor) for $400.00 It was worth every penny and Fuel Moto will map the new ECM before the ship it. Plug-n-play!

 

Hey..I guess I will call fuel moto today. All this info is overloading my pea brain. I have the Rush slip ons now. I will just ask fuel moto what I need to boost performance and run cooler, etc. Their web site is pretty good.

Plug and play works for me. I will let them suggest a hi flow air cleaner for me.

 

You have to be careful with the marketing hype you reed on a manufactures or retailers web sites. PCs are advertised as plug and play, but rarely are for most riders. They won't tell you that they are a PITA to install on a Dyna. The TTS kit could be considered more plug and play, plug it in, load a map, unplug, and play. No need to remove the battery or touch a wrench.

Just saying that you may be repeating the mistake that many here have been through. You are starting out from scratch with a sophisticated 2010 model bike and want to band aid it and compromise its ECU. There are many here happy with a PC (the PCV is much better BTW) and many more here that have regretted buying one (driveability and reliability issues) and not doing it right from the first.

If you are looking for less money, the V&H fuel pack also has many happy customers. The nightrider.com site does a good job selling the XiEDs and they may be sufficient to make you happy. Any of the add on modules do liven up the bike in a narrow envelope, especially WOT power, but they also leave a lot of performance on the table. PCs also cripple the ECUs capability to adapt to the crap fuel you may get now and then, not as much of a worry years ago. When you ride a tuned bike you wonder why you ever put one of those band aids on, especially when you can get a pretty good tuning kit for about $400.

You need to look at what you are really trying to do here, seems silly to me to compromise performance just to save $200 on a $15000 bike that has over $500 in modifications.... but that just may be me. Its your money and your judgment call, but unfortunately no right answer for everyone. Lots of marketing hype and old wives tales out there to sort through, not to mention shills here now and again touting the virtues of one product or another.

If I had a dollar for every one of these comments I've read: Whichever you decide on make sure you use dielectric grease on the connectors. I washed my bike a couple of weeks ago and PCV got wet and messed up on me. They're sending me another one this week.

 

OK...I am not really interested is screwing with my bike. I want to take it to a shop and have the work done. So I guess it is either dyno tuning or just the HD recalibration. Which is the best way to go to get a cooler running bike with more power?

 

Jamie at FuelMoto will take care of you. SE slipons, K & N or similar intake and a PCV. It ran great with Jamie's settings, but gained 5 hp and 6 lbs of torque with Dyno, mileage increased as well. I think the intake and the PCV are marginalized without the dyno.

 

The consensus best way is to hire a competent tuner (usually independent). The hardest part is finding a competent tuner that's worth his salt. There are a few nationally known centers but I don't know of a list published anywhere. This is one reason those of us that don't mind tinkering a little bit, like to use the TTS kit. Even a novice can easily get a get a good tune, better performing for your kind of riding than a pre-canned generic map.

There is a sticky over in the EFI forum about what to look for, but a good sign is the tuner recommends use a TTS kit and has high quality wideband sensor equipped dynos. Post your city in the EFI forum and perhaps one of the nationally known tuning centers are nearby. Another good sign is if he asks what you want out of the bike, raw power, street driveability, economy as the tune can be optimized.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...-injection-55/

 

Any device that works by recalibrating or replacing the O2 sensor output, only affects the areas in the AFR table that are closed loop. I believe this applies to Fuel Pak and Power Commander.

Auto Tuners that use wide band O2 sensors to control AFR sound good, but I hear that in practice they don't really perform as advertised.

The best would be a competent tuner w/a TTS or SESTP.