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Need Advice Stage 1 Intake Options

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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 10:28 AM
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army_eod's Avatar
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Default Need Advice Stage 1 Intake Options

I have a 2010 FXD. Just installed Rush slip-on 2.0 mufflers and I love it.

I talk to my dealer about Stage 1 intake upgrade and he says the parts are about 150.00 and a "recalibration" is 199.00.

I call another dealer and they say the new air cleaner is 150.00 or so but they then do a dyno tune..about $500 bucks.

My question is for me, do I really need the dyno tune? Or will recalibration do the trick? There are no other changes other than the intake and my pipes.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by army_eod
I have a 2010 FXD. Just installed Rush slip-on 2.0 mufflers and I love it.

I talk to my dealer about Stage 1 intake upgrade and he says the parts are about 150.00 and a "recalibration" is 199.00.

I call another dealer and they say the new air cleaner is 150.00 or so but they then do a dyno tune..about $500 bucks.

My question is for me, do I really need the dyno tune? Or will recalibration do the trick? There are no other changes other than the intake and my pipes.
ALL the Stage I 're-calibration' does is raise your RPM rev-limiter by 500 RPM. Period. On earlier models it richened the AFR. But since 2005, all it does is raise the rev limit. Period. Submarine, meet screen door.

JUST a dyno tune? Without a tuner, what's that supposed to do?

Right now, I'd say you're okay. You put on a new, high flow AC and you need a tuner.
 

Last edited by Grendel4; Jul 13, 2010 at 10:36 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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parts eeter
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Default V&H Fuel Pak and Arlen Ness intake

Get an Arlen Ness intake in chrome, with a Vance and Hines Fuel Pak. Eastern Performance has great prices mention forum. Limitless tunes on Fuel Pak. Should have around 300 smackers in it all.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:01 AM
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Ness big sucker, a SE intake, or if you want to spend a little more, I've always been a fan of the S&S intake will be fine.

For fuel management, the Fuel Pak used to be great as long as you used V&H pipes but I think it's better now. I use a Power Commander and I really like them for simple mods.

For a stage 1 you don't need to hand over big $$ to the dealer. You can get a Big Sucker for about $120 or less, if you watch you can get the SE for about the same. Fuel Paks and PC's run $250+ depending on a few things.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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Having had a Fuel pak and now a PC III USB, I would not waste my money on the Fuel Pak, I did not find it to be any real benefit, the PC III has been a much better tuner.
Also, if you are going to buy a tuner, DO NOT have the dealer do a Stage I download.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by army_eod
...

My question is for me, do I really need the dyno tune? Or will recalibration do the trick? There are no other changes other than the intake and my pipes.

First, the consensus on the factory recalibration is it is a waste of hard earned $$$.

The consensus on the dealer dyno tune is sometimes they do a good job and sometimes not.


But I gotta ask you why are you installing an air filter? Do you think you need one because someone told you it will improve performance or do you like the style better? If you are into the looks or style, use one with about the same flow characteristics as stock and just ride.

If you are looking for performance, I suggest you first get yourself a decent tuning kit, like the $400 TTS, and tune the bike yourself. Where an air filter may improve performance above 4500rpm, a tune improves performance across the board and really livens up the bike, more fun to ride and sounds even better. Then, if you want more performance or a different air filer style, get the free flow AF you want and retune youself using your TTS kit.

Thats basically what I've done, put rush 2.0s on and loved the sound. Didn't like the engine heat and surge, used the TTS kit to VTune and wow what a performance difference. I put a free flow air filter on and retuned (no cost retune with exception of a couple hours sweat equity), and noticed just a bit more power above 4500 rpm.... but I really like showing off more of the engine.

If you are looking to save money on the filter with style, check the $50 thread, there are some clever ideas there.

So, if you want to improve performance, look into a tuning kit first as the payback is large. If you can swing both a tuning kit and AF at the same time, do it, but just about any performance gain is from the tune, not the air filter.

If you have no wrenching skill or desire to wrench, you may find an independent shop that has better products and tune for a little less money, although your dealer may be one of the few that are OK. If you go that route get both the filter and tune at the same time to save re-tuning cost. Many here spend the cash tuning for drivability and riding satisfaction and could care less about raw performance and racing.
 

Last edited by ColdCase; Jul 13, 2010 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ColdCase
First, the consensus on the factory recalibration is it is a waste of hard earned $$$.

The consensus on the dealer dyno tune is sometimes they do a good job and sometimes not.


But I gotta ask you why are you installing an air filter? Do you think you need one because someone told you it will improve performance or do you like the style better? If you are into the looks or style, use one with about the same flow characteristics as stock and just ride.

If you are looking for performance, I suggest you first get yourself a decent tuning kit, like the $400 TTS, and tune the bike yourself. Where an air filter may improve performance above 4500rpm, a tune improves performance across the board and really livens up the bike, more fun to ride and sounds even better. Then, if you want more performance or a different air filer style, get the free flow AF you want and retune youself using your TTS kit.

Thats basically what I've done, put rush 2.0s on and loved the sound. Didn't like the engine heat and surge, used the TTS kit to VTune and wow what a performance difference. I put a free flow air filter on and retuned (no cost retune with exception of a couple hours sweat equity), and noticed just a bit more power above 4500 rpm.... but I really like showing off more of the engine.

If you are looking to save money on the filter with style, check the $50 thread, there are some clever ideas there.

So, if you want to improve performance, look into a tuning kit first as the payback is large. If you can swing both a tuning kit and AF at the same time, do it, but just about any performance gain is from the tune, not the air filter.

If you have no wrenching skill or desire to wrench, you may find an independent shop that has better products and tune for a little less money, although your dealer may be one of the few that are OK. If you go that route get both the filter and tune at the same time to save re-tuning cost. Many here spend the cash tuning for drivability and riding satisfaction and could care less about raw performance and racing.
So this is the tuner you are referring to?

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/402-...tt=TTS&Ntk=All

And what exactly do I need to do?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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Check out the J. E. T. AirStack.
http://www.johnsonenginetechnology.c.../airstack.html
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 12:06 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by army_eod
So this is the tuner you are referring to?

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/402-...tt=TTS&Ntk=All

And what exactly do I need to do?

Yes that's the device, plus you will need a cable (USB or serial most get USB). The kit is also available at a couple other forum sponsors like Phat, but you usually need to call them to get the best prices. But that's the ball park figure.

Go to mastertune.net and download the tuning manual. That will tell you what you are getting into, but it looks more scary than when the software is in front of you. You need a laptop or netbook to ride with you.

If you want to do more research and reading, there is a thread in the following forum that has tons of TTS tuning data, but your mileage will vary. There is also a sticky thread on why tune an EFI bike.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...-injection-55/

The following subscription forum has more technical tuning discussions and help, more oriented to the highly modified bikes, however.

http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php/board,13.0.html
 
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #10  
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How much money do you have to spend and what are you looking to improve?
I would agree that some type of fuel management system is basic for better performance.
The auto tuners are more initial cash lay out but they eliminate the need to visit the dyno shop for every mod you might make.
 
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