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This lowering kit works by moving the lower bolt location back some right?
If so you are messing with the wheel rate. Also I believe the tire will get closer to bottoming out on the fender instead of the shock. I know our shock in the stock location only has about a half inch until it hits the fender when the shock bottoms out.
I would have to draw everything up to see the implications.
This lowering kit works by moving the lower bolt location back some right?
If so you are messing with the wheel rate. Also I believe the tire will get closer to bottoming out on the fender instead of the shock. I know our shock in the stock location only has about a half inch until it hits the fender when the shock bottoms out.
I would have to draw everything up to see the implications.
If some are running 11.5" and 11" I don't see how there would be a problem? Is the stock H-D location of the shock optimum?
This is what the fender height was like when I had the 12-3/4" road king shocks on so it will be even a little higher than this. I will definitely fine tune the shocks to where I want them and then I may try some of the 1" lowering blocks to see how they effect the ride. I know the extra lean angle will be nice with the 13" shocks.
If some are running 11.5" and 11" I don't see how there would be a problem? Is the stock H-D location of the shock optimum?
CB
news flash... a lower length shock also has less travel and as such will not compress up more than stock(well insignificantly). So if your stock shock travels 2.5" and the bike has say 3" of clearance before bottoming your safe. Now lower the bike 1" with the 2.5" travel shock and now you have 2" of clearance and a shock that travels 2.5". So you have problems.
news flash... a lower length shock also has less travel and as such will not compress up more than stock(well insignificantly). So if your stock shock travels 2.5" and the bike has say 3" of clearance before bottoming your safe. Now lower the bike 1" with the 2.5" travel shock and now you have 2" of clearance and a shock that travels 2.5". So you have problems.
News flash..... Why I said you need to check for "adequate" clearance. News flash..... have not heard of anyone having problems with the stock 12" with lowering blocks. News flash..... Bikerlaw is running 13" 440s with 1" lowering blocks and he does not mention he is bottoming out.
CB
News flash..... Why I said you need to check for "adequate" clearance. News flash..... have not heard of anyone having problems with the stock 12" with lowering blocks. News flash..... Bikerlaw is running 13" 440s with 1" lowering blocks and he does not mention he is bottoming out.
CB
I'm not sure at what point bikerlaws fender would hit the belt guard since his is a 96 FXDL. On my 2009 Street Bob I measured it and without the shocks on it hits at 9.5" eye to eye. The 440's for his bike have 2.85" of travel. The 13" Ricor's have 3" of travel so they may have more of a tendency for the fender to hit the belt guard with lowering blocks. Now I don't believe that just by adding the 1" lowering block that it will effect the travel exactly 1" at the point where the fender would hit the belt guard. The bottom of the shock is moved towards the rear changing the geometry.
If it was exactly the same I would have a problem with the 13" ricor shocks with 1" lowering blocks. I would even have a problem with the 440's if it was the same. 13"- 2.85 travel minus 1" for lowering blocks equals 9.15". I actually think I probably won't even try the lowering blocks. On some corners I really feel I could push 5-10 more mph out of the bike but the pegs are already scraping. Even though I would prefer the look of the lower bike height I think I will value the increased lean angle more.
Just for the record, my 13 inch 440's with the one inch lowering blocks have never dropped the fender on the belt guard. For all that matter, I have been able to run both the stock 12.6 Showa's as well as a set of 12 5/8 Progressive 412's with the lowering block's without smashing up parts. I did however try a set of 12 inch air shocks for a short time. Those things bottomed out ALL THE TIME with both me and my wife on the bike. Smashed the fender down on both my belt guard and my caliper. That sucked if I do say so myself. Here's a picture of the carnage left by those 12 inch air shocks. I can't speak to what will happen with shorter shocks than I ran in conjunction with lowering blocks, I can only tell you what happened with my bike.
Everyone is overlooking the fact that the shock angle affects the amount of drop. If the shock were vertical, it would be one for one. If the shock angle is 45 degrees, the drop is about .7 inch vertical drop for an inch of shock shortening, with the amount of frame drop increasing with each inch of shortening as the swingarm angle increases relative to horizontal.
The same deal applies with shortening the forks. The rake affects the amount of drop per unit of shortening. Greater rake, less drop.
Last edited by Dynamic; Aug 1, 2010 at 06:55 AM.
Reason: addition
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