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Its Broke Again!!

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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 06:57 AM
  #11  
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Yeah, the cat and mouse of electrical problems can suck, can't it?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by stbobfisher
I have taken the switch housing apart no signs of anything in there, I have pulled the fuse from the lighting circut no change there. every time I try to use the test light to start checking for the problem the problem stops and all is normal again. I need it to mess up with the switches loose so I can check and see if there is power on both sides of the switch, but it will start working before I can do that. When riding the bike I am pulling the relay out after I start it so the starter does not engage at highway speeds. I do not want to spend money on the switches if i don,t have to.
Thanks Chris

Based on what you said, by taking the housing apart then thing works normally... I strongly suspect the problem resides on that end of things (up near the housing) either some conductors are managing to connect or there is something internally wrong/loose with the starter button that you can't see unless you take that apart... I suspect there are some small parts in it, like springs and plastic protrusions that can get lost of broken, so be careful!


***FIXED A STUPID TYPO!!***
 

Last edited by Stomper-63; Aug 27, 2010 at 01:24 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #13  
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I tried to get the switch apart but it is a sealed unit, Can the switches be purchased seperate fromt the housings and if so it looks like i am going to have to pull the bars apart to get into the wires to do the repair, I am not looking forward to that. I have never installed bars before, the bars i have are hd drag bars with internal wires will there be splices inside the bars or should they be one wire from the controls to the conector under the tank.
Thanks Chris
 
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 01:03 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by stbobfisher
I tried to get the switch apart but it is a sealed unit, Can the switches be purchased seperate fromt the housings and if so it looks like i am going to have to pull the bars apart to get into the wires to do the repair, I am not looking forward to that. I have never installed bars before, the bars i have are hd drag bars with internal wires will there be splices inside the bars or should they be one wire from the controls to the conector under the tank.
Thanks Chris
Nothing to really add to this other than what's been said. I hate electrical problems and if I was in your shoes, even though it's total sacrilige, I'd prolly take the thing into the dealer and get them to take care of it. On a side note this is precisely why I never run my wires internally - sure it looks great but whan you have problems its a total PITA. Good luck and let us know what it turns out to be.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by stbobfisher
I have taken the switch housing apart no signs of anything in there, I have pulled the fuse from the lighting circut no change there. every time I try to use the test light to start checking for the problem the problem stops and all is normal again. I need it to mess up with the switches loose so I can check and see if there is power on both sides of the switch, but it will start working before I can do that. When riding the bike I am pulling the relay out after I start it so the starter does not engage at highway speeds. I do not want to spend money on the switches if i don,t have to.
Thanks Chris
The switch is normally open so check for continuity not voltage of the switch to see if it is sticking. Operate multiple times and watch to see if it remains closed. Pull the gray relay and check between where terminal 86 on the relay plugs into the fuse panel(bottom left terminal) and ground. It should show "OL/open" and press the switch it should show continuity.
 
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Last edited by NoLongerAmember; Aug 27, 2010 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:32 AM
  #16  
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Well after checking everything that i could check I took a ride to the dealer, talked to the parts guy he said O we have plenty of those switches in stock, then the service manger walked up and said we replace several of those switchs for that problem, so I bit the bullet and purchased the 67.00 dollar switch and will install it tonight. will update on if the problem is fixed.

Thanks for all the info and sugestions
 
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 10:00 AM
  #17  
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When I installed my chrome controls and housings, the chrome starter button was rubbing the chrome housing which held it slightly in the start position. Thus causiing the starter to stay engaged,although it did this only once. So i had to slightly bend or tweak the starter button to align properly within my switch housing. The problem you are having is most definitely in the switch area unless someone has really forced wiring through the bars and scuffed the coating off of 2 12volt wires and its picking up another 12v source within the bars. You will eliminate both by doing a new switch install so I am sure we will be hearing back that it is resolved. Be sure and post results.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 01:09 AM
  #18  
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Tonight i installed the new switches after fitting with pulling the wires threw the bars and getting to the connectors in the frame. and the bike is fixed.
70$ and and couple hours of work, this was one of the less expensive repairs that i have had to do.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 06:50 AM
  #19  
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Great news. Glad to hear you got her fixed.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 07:58 AM
  #20  
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Well I created a new problem when doing the switches, I cracked the plastic nipple that holds the fuel line on the throttle body so i had to go get new fuel line and a couple hose clamps, so no more quick disconect at the throttle body anymore. I am debating on ordering the correct part or just leaving it this way, it does not leak.
Thanks for all the help Chris
 
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