1st 1000 mile service question
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 859
Likes: 14
From: Millsboro Delaware
Dealer wanted almost $500 to change the fluids and check the neck bearings. Did it myself and saved a bundle. Buy the service manual, and save all receipts and you will need an inch lb torque wrench when you change the primary fluid. It is very simple to do. Also as long as you stay within a couple of hundred miles of the service you should be fine.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
The local cycle shop here said they would do everything the dealership did on the first 1000 mile service for $100 labor plus cost of fluids which I could buy myself and bring them or buy there my choice. They also said they would provide a sales slip with every detail they performed with date and mileage for my records. The dealership is like $400 plus a 2 hour drive so I am leaning local when the time comes.
Last edited by code1; Aug 31, 2010 at 09:24 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
DO NOT take it to the dealer. You can wait til 1500 at least if you changed the fluids out after the break in (first 500 miles). That's just a rip off service. Hell, never take it to the dealer unless you drop the thing horribly and can't fix it yourself. All it takes is some simple hand tools that you can probably get in the clearance bin at a local auto parts stores.
If you can change the oil on a car you can change the oil on a bike, same damn principle, drain, fill change the oil filter. Which is pretty much all the first service is anyway, a fluid change for the case and the motor.
If you really feel the need to waste your money at the dealer, save up some money and wait until the 10K. Even then, if you got a 60$ manual you can save hundreds on that if you do it yourself.
Don't be a freak about your motorcycle, it's not as fragile as you think it is. Plus never trust dealers, their entire job focuses on selling you **** you don't need for a price you REALLY don't want to pay. They're kind of like gremlins, or better yet angry dogs. Never let them smell your fear or they'll take advantage of you.
If you can change the oil on a car you can change the oil on a bike, same damn principle, drain, fill change the oil filter. Which is pretty much all the first service is anyway, a fluid change for the case and the motor.
If you really feel the need to waste your money at the dealer, save up some money and wait until the 10K. Even then, if you got a 60$ manual you can save hundreds on that if you do it yourself.
Don't be a freak about your motorcycle, it's not as fragile as you think it is. Plus never trust dealers, their entire job focuses on selling you **** you don't need for a price you REALLY don't want to pay. They're kind of like gremlins, or better yet angry dogs. Never let them smell your fear or they'll take advantage of you.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
From: Utah
I did the first one on the wifes cross bones. Took about 3.5 hours including the clutch and the rocker adjustment on the springer. Cost me about 60 bucks for the syn oil and harley filter. 60 bucks for the manual and now I would rather do it myself. Save yourself a bunch if your comfortable doing it and buy the manual its the best investment you will make with your bike.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 7
From: Southwest Florida
Not only do you save a bunch of $$$ when you do it yourself you know..... Well, you know it's actually been done.
Changed my fluids out at 500 miles, just recently went over the 'critical fasteners' and found a couple that needed torqued. Not bad, but still needed torqued. Can't find the rear Master Cylinder mounting bolt so I blew that one off for now. The disc (rotor) mounting screws got put off, too. They seem fine -- I think.
Other than that, I think I got 'em all.
Does the dealer actually crawl all over the bike to do this? What do you think?
Besides, while it took me a while to figure out what was what (still can't find that GD rear master cyclinder mounting bolt) I learned about my motorcycle. Will it do any good? Maybe in the future. I don't claim to be a wrench, never have, never will. But it can get real expensive hauling your bike to the dealer every time it farts.
To the other poster about early fluid changes -- I don't care who makes the vehicle, Ferrari, Fiat, Ford or Harley Davidson. Initial break in of an engine is one the most gut-wrenching, metal shearing processes you can think of. I don't care how good the machining process is, there's going to be metal shavings floating around in the oil. Most of it so small you can't see it and some of it non-magnetic. Some of it in the 5 to 20 micron range. Some of it from the engine, some of it from bearings, some of it from -- God knows where.
Get it out. Will it damage your engine? A solid 'Yes' if it's left in there too long.
Get it O.U.T. The sooner, the better.
Changed my fluids out at 500 miles, just recently went over the 'critical fasteners' and found a couple that needed torqued. Not bad, but still needed torqued. Can't find the rear Master Cylinder mounting bolt so I blew that one off for now. The disc (rotor) mounting screws got put off, too. They seem fine -- I think.
Other than that, I think I got 'em all.
Does the dealer actually crawl all over the bike to do this? What do you think?
Besides, while it took me a while to figure out what was what (still can't find that GD rear master cyclinder mounting bolt) I learned about my motorcycle. Will it do any good? Maybe in the future. I don't claim to be a wrench, never have, never will. But it can get real expensive hauling your bike to the dealer every time it farts.
To the other poster about early fluid changes -- I don't care who makes the vehicle, Ferrari, Fiat, Ford or Harley Davidson. Initial break in of an engine is one the most gut-wrenching, metal shearing processes you can think of. I don't care how good the machining process is, there's going to be metal shavings floating around in the oil. Most of it so small you can't see it and some of it non-magnetic. Some of it in the 5 to 20 micron range. Some of it from the engine, some of it from bearings, some of it from -- God knows where.
Get it out. Will it damage your engine? A solid 'Yes' if it's left in there too long.
Get it O.U.T. The sooner, the better.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 859
Likes: 14
From: Millsboro Delaware
You are right. I have heard the stories how the dealer claimed to do it, but in reality they didn't. Best thing is get the manual, go to Sears and by yourself a basic tool kit. 3/8 Socket set, torx sockets, torque wrench, screwdrivers and some pliers. Changing the fluids on the bike is easy, saves money and most of all IT WAS DONE!!! I have been wrenching on things since I was a kid. The only way the bike goes to the dealer is over my dead body....
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A little forethought before doing the service will save you time + a mess. Get a plastic water bottle QT size and cut the bottom end off at a taper. You can use it to change the oil filter and catch the most of the drippings. Unless you have a something to suck all the oil out of the engine don't try putting 3 quarts back in as you will overfill it. Put in 2 1/2 qts and then check it before you top it off. Much easier to add than to fix the overfill. A filter wrench makes it easier and will keep you from damaging a switch/wiring near the filter(I forget what it is at the moment but several folks have broken it not being careful).
Factory Service Manual is a must get the HD one not the Clymers. Clymers are too generic and don't show some of the individual model details.
I ordered the little black o rings that go behind the oil and primary chaincase bolt and the gasket for the derby cover from a dealer on-line. Some folks reuse the old ones, but nice to have a new one on hand if something goes wrong. I personally don't reuse them. Be careful taking off the derby cover. It's easy to strip the fasteners. I hit mine in the middle with a small punch and hammer to loosen them first. JRK aka The Powder Pro, taught us that.
I did find some fine shavings on the primary chaincase nut. Seems to be the norm.
Lastly if you are not sure what your are doing don't do it. Ask the question first and you won't be asking how to fix the problem you caused. (been there and done it).
Factory Service Manual is a must get the HD one not the Clymers. Clymers are too generic and don't show some of the individual model details.
I ordered the little black o rings that go behind the oil and primary chaincase bolt and the gasket for the derby cover from a dealer on-line. Some folks reuse the old ones, but nice to have a new one on hand if something goes wrong. I personally don't reuse them. Be careful taking off the derby cover. It's easy to strip the fasteners. I hit mine in the middle with a small punch and hammer to loosen them first. JRK aka The Powder Pro, taught us that.
I did find some fine shavings on the primary chaincase nut. Seems to be the norm.
Lastly if you are not sure what your are doing don't do it. Ask the question first and you won't be asking how to fix the problem you caused. (been there and done it).
