front caliper centering
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Lets hear from the OP!
parts eeter, I think your issue is different. The OP's rotor is rubbing the caliper housing and what you describe are brakes dragging a little. My brakes have always drug a little, when you push the bike around in the garage you can hear the pads scraping a little. I have 24k on the stock pads and had no wear issues, warpage or overheating issues, so I would say it is normal and you are trying to fix what is not broken.
Let not hijack this thread, the OP is way off if they think they need to shim their caliper after a tire and bearing change, something that could have a catastrophic effect!
CB
parts eeter, I think your issue is different. The OP's rotor is rubbing the caliper housing and what you describe are brakes dragging a little. My brakes have always drug a little, when you push the bike around in the garage you can hear the pads scraping a little. I have 24k on the stock pads and had no wear issues, warpage or overheating issues, so I would say it is normal and you are trying to fix what is not broken.
Let not hijack this thread, the OP is way off if they think they need to shim their caliper after a tire and bearing change, something that could have a catastrophic effect!
CB
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Grayson Ky
A rotor spacer wouldnt do me any good as it needs to move in towards the wheel and not out towards the fork leg.
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Again, I would call PM ASAP.
CB
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From: Davie, FL
Had the same problem right from stock on Jay Risks Dyna. The wheel bearings need to be put in the correct side first than the other side to press in. If it was not done correctly than the wheel bearing location is not the same so the wheel could be shifter over. This was not Jay Risks problem.
I than hung the fork tubes relaxed and than made wheel spacers to first fit tight on the left side so either one or both (dual) calipers were centered on the rotors(s). I found that on Jay Risks bike the OEM spacer on the right side was 0.050" too short causing the forks to compress towards each other causing fork bushing stiction as well as the rotor on the right side never centering.
You do not need to shim your caliper but you need to shim the spacer to get the right location into your single left caliper. I have also indicated you members to clean your calipers and pistons every 2,500 miles if you are using sentered brake material such as found in OEM pads.
If you have a stock Dyna Lowrider than you only have one caliper. I do this many times in building my forks, axles, and caliper mounts. Use the head and think what the real reason behind your problem is. Just because it is OEM does not mean it is correct.
I than hung the fork tubes relaxed and than made wheel spacers to first fit tight on the left side so either one or both (dual) calipers were centered on the rotors(s). I found that on Jay Risks bike the OEM spacer on the right side was 0.050" too short causing the forks to compress towards each other causing fork bushing stiction as well as the rotor on the right side never centering.
You do not need to shim your caliper but you need to shim the spacer to get the right location into your single left caliper. I have also indicated you members to clean your calipers and pistons every 2,500 miles if you are using sentered brake material such as found in OEM pads.
If you have a stock Dyna Lowrider than you only have one caliper. I do this many times in building my forks, axles, and caliper mounts. Use the head and think what the real reason behind your problem is. Just because it is OEM does not mean it is correct.
- Check correct installation of wheel bearings and make sure they put in the wheel bearing axle spacer.
- Clean out your calipers & pistons.
- Center the rotor in the caliper using only one (left) spacer. Use a feeler gauge to center it if in fact the caliper is off center on the rotor and the left side axle spacer too short.
- Measure with an inside micrometer the right side space once you have established the length of the left axle spacer.
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From: Davie, FL
PS
>>> "I felt a slight clicking"
<<< If you felt this than the wheel bearings are not installed properly and when turning the wheel and it feel "notch-ie", remove the wheel bearings and do not ride the bike for sure. When you find out you have a problem it may be too late.
This could be caused by the first bearing not being seated (wrong first side) in the shoulder and pushed to far than the second bearing is pressed on and the race is too far over in relationship to the axle wheel bearing spacer.
>>> "I felt a slight clicking"
<<< If you felt this than the wheel bearings are not installed properly and when turning the wheel and it feel "notch-ie", remove the wheel bearings and do not ride the bike for sure. When you find out you have a problem it may be too late.
This could be caused by the first bearing not being seated (wrong first side) in the shoulder and pushed to far than the second bearing is pressed on and the race is too far over in relationship to the axle wheel bearing spacer.
Last edited by FastHarley; Oct 12, 2010 at 10:50 AM.
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PS
>>> "I felt a slight clicking"
<<< If you felt this than the wheel bearings are not installed properly and when turning the wheel and it feel "notch-ie", remove the wheel bearings and do not ride the bike for sure. When you find out you have a problem it may be too late.
This could be caused by the first bearing not being seated (wrong first side) in the shoulder and pushed to far than the second bearing is pressed on and the race is too far over in relationship to the axle wheel bearing spacer.
>>> "I felt a slight clicking"
<<< If you felt this than the wheel bearings are not installed properly and when turning the wheel and it feel "notch-ie", remove the wheel bearings and do not ride the bike for sure. When you find out you have a problem it may be too late.
This could be caused by the first bearing not being seated (wrong first side) in the shoulder and pushed to far than the second bearing is pressed on and the race is too far over in relationship to the axle wheel bearing spacer.
My rear bearings were notch-ie and noisy when the wheel was spun on the axle and the reason was they were BAD, so it is not just a problem associated with incorrect bearing installation.
I would bet that the OP installed the bearings from the wrong side!
The Service manual tells you to install the first bearing from the primary "rotor" side of the wheel, not the primary side of the bike. On a Dyna the primary rotor side on the front is the left and for obvious reasons the rear is on the right. There are grooves machined into the Hubs on most of the the OE wheels and that indicates the side of the wheel you install the first bearing on.
CB
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: NC
Floating rotors came about as a need for the OD swelling as the rotor heats up so they dont warp. Just thought you may wanna know that.
You ASSUMED that I have FLOATING rotors, but I do NOT. I have HD Chrome Rotors in a NON floating style
I sanded the pins and cleaned the pads. I alse de GLAZED my pads to improve grip. So I assume thats what you meant by GRAZING, which cows and farm animals usually do. At least where I am from.
By saying that the problem was better but still exists,I mean that the noise of the dragging was signifigantly reduced as compared to what it was before I cleaned and deglazed my pads... Note I didnt say GRAZED
I did however get some useful info from some other posters that is much appreciated and I will be double checking the position of the axle and reconfirm the sequence and method of axle assembly and also as Fast Harley said I will confirm that the OEM spacers look proper.
For the people who take the time to help and provide great info , I THANK YOU GUYS. I dont claim to know everything which is why I draw from the many great minds on this board, but I didnt fall off the truck yesterday either. The day a man thinks he knows everything is the day a man ceases to gain any knowledge. Now I am gonna go back to licking the window and waving at cars!
Thanks To CB/Desertram/Fast Harley for good info. I didnt realize that the OP actually had a caliper housing alignment issue. I did however want to take the oppurtunity to ask my questions now as I am about to pull my front end down for service and figured I could address any issues I believed I had at this time. Back to the OP topic.
Last edited by parts eeter; Oct 12, 2010 at 01:54 PM.
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From: Davie, FL
OP please correct me if I read your post wrong:
>>> "OK, I just replaced the front tire on my 2008 FXDL and the bearings as well because when I put it on the balancer, I felt a slight clicking, figured for $10 it was worth it not to have a problem later."
<<<
>>> "OK, I just replaced the front tire on my 2008 FXDL and the bearings as well because when I put it on the balancer, I felt a slight clicking, figured for $10 it was worth it not to have a problem later."
<<<
- You replaced the bearings and tire
- You put it on a balance-er and felt a slight clicking
- You figured for $10 (for balancing your wheel)
- You can not get bearings and have them installed for $10 so the $10 was for balancing?
- Your bearings were clicking after you installed them and the tire was on the balance-er?
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Davie, FL
I am sorry to hijack this post so I will provide a LINK ONLY
OP I hope you do not mind answering another post
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