2010 SB cheap mods w/pics
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UPDATA.
Removed .250 off the sprocket and it looks good! Installed the wheel and the belt has plenty of room from the tire and inside the primary and dosn't ride on the outside edge of the pulley anymore. The sprocket is now clearing the swingarm also. Here are pics.
This is the sprocket with out removing anything.
Now .250 milled off of the sprocket.
This is a before and after...
Stock wheel/tire set up (17x4.5 rim and 160mm tire)
Cross Bones rim and tire (17x6 rim and 200mm tire)
Its tought to see but the belt is now riding on the pulley better.
There is one problem! The tire is TIGHT in the fender now. Iam going to see if I can run the blinks wires up and out of the way but iam starting to think iam going to have to cut the struts and relocated the blinks now...
Removed .250 off the sprocket and it looks good! Installed the wheel and the belt has plenty of room from the tire and inside the primary and dosn't ride on the outside edge of the pulley anymore. The sprocket is now clearing the swingarm also. Here are pics.
This is the sprocket with out removing anything.
Now .250 milled off of the sprocket.
This is a before and after...
Stock wheel/tire set up (17x4.5 rim and 160mm tire)
Cross Bones rim and tire (17x6 rim and 200mm tire)
Its tought to see but the belt is now riding on the pulley better.
There is one problem! The tire is TIGHT in the fender now. Iam going to see if I can run the blinks wires up and out of the way but iam starting to think iam going to have to cut the struts and relocated the blinks now...
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I took the stock bolt out of the primary and replaced it with a 1/4x20 stud about 3in long. I put a nut on the outside to tighting the primary cover back up and then used a nut on the back side also to tighting the little bracket I made up. I used the stock plate holder and just made a 90 degree bracket off that. It looks like the plate will make it a pain in the a$$ to get to the kick stand so iam not sure if iam keeping the plate there of just extend the kickstand lever.
Pics
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From: NC
You need these brackets and bolts. Bracket Pt#59514-06 (qty2)
Bolt pt # 4592 (qty2)
These were the brackets that were given with the SE180 kit and I have used them on mine. Many others have as well. It extends the point of which the wires come out and the lower profile bolts give you a few mm on each side extra.
The other guy who did this wheel said he bent the struts out approx 1/4 inch on each side which gave him additional clearance as well. I wouldnt cut the struts unless thats what you really want to do,but its definitely not required for that setup. Worse case scenario you can sell that tire and use a 180 or 190 tire. I found some cool Shinko tires for like 90 bux and we had good luck with that brand on our race bikes. But I dont think this will be the case. the bracket/bolt combo and maybe some tweaking the strut action and you all set.
Bolt pt # 4592 (qty2)
These were the brackets that were given with the SE180 kit and I have used them on mine. Many others have as well. It extends the point of which the wires come out and the lower profile bolts give you a few mm on each side extra.
The other guy who did this wheel said he bent the struts out approx 1/4 inch on each side which gave him additional clearance as well. I wouldnt cut the struts unless thats what you really want to do,but its definitely not required for that setup. Worse case scenario you can sell that tire and use a 180 or 190 tire. I found some cool Shinko tires for like 90 bux and we had good luck with that brand on our race bikes. But I dont think this will be the case. the bracket/bolt combo and maybe some tweaking the strut action and you all set.
Last edited by parts eeter; Oct 27, 2010 at 11:16 PM.
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From: NC
Before I got my new brackets and bolts I hammered the bulge flat on the brackets and ground the head of the bolts down to 3mm thick. That will get you going immediately since you already routed the wires. That is looking nice. Are you gonna do a 21 front rim?
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From: Asscrackistan
I came up with removing .250 off the inside of the sprocket last night. I think with removing that it will make the belt clear the inside of the primary cover and the sprocket will clear the swingarm. If it isn't enough I can always remove more. I'll mill it down tonight and probably get it together late tonight..
Erik
Erik
If you have a way to find the dimensional width of the Cross Bones hub, from outer hub to outer hub and the dimensions of your stock hub you were using, I would think you could remove that difference on the sprocket to attain proper alignment of the belt. This would would also give the clearance you need.
Also, I would lose the inside fender strut plate for the flat ones Harley has, both ends of the new strut plates have the flush nutserts welded on so there is no protrusion into the tire area.
This is a killer project with all your documentation along the way. Your letting Dyna owners know 200 tire is possible without changing the swing arm!
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Iam not sure if i wantr to do a 21in frt wheel yet..thats something I need to think abaout.
If you have a way to find the dimensional width of the Cross Bones hub, from outer hub to outer hub and the dimensions of your stock hub you were using, I would think you could remove that difference on the sprocket to attain proper alignment of the belt. This would would also give the clearance you need.
Also, I would lose the inside fender strut plate for the flat ones Harley has, both ends of the new strut plates have the flush nutserts welded on so there is no protrusion into the tire area.
This is a killer project with all your documentation along the way. Your letting Dyna owners know 200 tire is possible without changing the swing arm!
Also, I would lose the inside fender strut plate for the flat ones Harley has, both ends of the new strut plates have the flush nutserts welded on so there is no protrusion into the tire area.
This is a killer project with all your documentation along the way. Your letting Dyna owners know 200 tire is possible without changing the swing arm!