Sounds like some Prozac is needed!!!

 

you can "borrow" torque wrenches from autozone. You will pay for how much it costs then you will return it.

It is their rental program.

 

http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/...ue/torque.html

http://www.finishing.com/118/94_crows_foot_torque.shtml

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...32129316/pg_5/

http://www.trialsnuts.com/TORQUED.pdf

 

You loss very little torque difference when using an extention the socket and torque wrench head are inline with each other, provided the extention is the same size as the wrench head, i.e. 1/2" torque wrench with a 12"-1/2" extention, if you step up or down the extention head size then the torque will change. When you use something along the lines of an extended dog bone making the torque wrench either longer or shorter. Let say your torque wrench is 12" long and after you connect, lets say a 3" dog bone extention, there wrench becomes either 15" long with the dog bone inline with the wrench arm but extented outward, or 9" long with the extention directly under the wrench between the wrench head and it grip. There is a formula to figure this two difference out. If the extention goes to the left or right of the head at a 90degree angle (L shape) then the torue does not change. I work on government fighters and have tons of publications that state this. If I have the time I will look them up and give you exact specs.

 

I can't believe this has gone 3 pages.... Some of you take this torque stuff way too seriously. Most of the bolts on your bikes do not have to be done with a torque wrench if you have any mechanical ability you can tighten by feel.
The covers with gaskets and multiple bolts require more care in tightening than the exhaust bolts.
Like has been said before in this and many other threads on this subject, tighten, ride, cool and check again.
The threads are not as week as some on here have suggested, the 1/4" ratchet idea is a good one, hold it near the head and tighten it down.
Screwing a bolt into aluminum threads is far more prone top stripping than threading a nut on a stud in aluminum.

 

torque everything

 

Just borrow a torque wrench...this is one spot on the bike that's not worth screwing up.

 

[quote=SC-Longhair;7469059]Let me ask this.....how do you get a torque wrench to fit onto the flange nuts without using a healthy extension, which will throw the amount of torque you're applying completely off. I don't have it handy but there is a formula to recalculate the amount of torque when using an extension.


Is it any wonder the exhaust studs are one of the most popular fasteners that need drilling, extracting, tapping and or heli coils. The spec is 60 to 80 inch pounds. at the tight end of that spec you are only talking 6.6 foot pounds most 3/8 drive torque wrenches go as low as 10 foot pounds. Ever heard of the word finesse? When you are talking inch pounds being ham fisted won't cut it. It really is just tight enough to slighly crush the woven gasket in the exhaust port to form the seal to the head pipe. Over tighten these nuts they will snap off the studs given time. I am almost certain these nuts do not get tightened as tight as the screws in the handlebar switch housings to give you an idea of how gently they need to be tightened!.

You can add any length extension to a torque wrench to gain access to the fastener with no change in the accuracy.. The only things that will throw off the torque reading is changing the length of the torque wrench handle, or I should say adding overall length of the wrench at either end with either a pipe on the handle or something like a box end wrench (on one end) with a 1/4, 3/8. or 1/2 square drive (on the other end...what ever the case may be) unless it's positioned 90 degrees to the handle and does not change the overall length of the torque wrench. The other things that will give false torque wrench readings are rusty fasteners and factory pre applied thread locking agent, or self locking nuts. It is best to clean and apply anti seize compound for the most accurate torque...especially on an exhaust stud.

Most technicians will have an inch pound torque wrench with a range of 40-200 inch pounds in either 1/4 or 3/8 drive, a 3/8 torque wrench with a range of 5-75 foot pounds, and a 1/2 inch torque wrench with a range of 40 foot pounds to as high as you can find.

Tech23

 

LOL I ask a serious question and cant get any replies, this has 4 pages of replies..... Out of control.... To the person who posted the question I have worked on bikes for a little bit built my own chopper, helped alot of buddies and I have never once torqued exhaust flange bolts to any specs, bro when they were tight I stopped end of story..

 

+1 on the re-tightening. I just did a set on a buddy's bike. Tightened to spec, he rode it 2 miles, and I turned the flange nuts another 1/4 to 1/2 rotation to get the same torque. They would have loosened up for sure.