Changing exhaust without a torque wrench
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 178
Likes: 3
From: Chicago NW suburbs
I think you should get the torque wrench. They are cheap and you will use it more than you think. I would suggest getting a ft lb and an inch lb. You want to make sure you tighten the exhaust to the right specs and retighten after the first ride with the new pipes. Harbor Freight has cheap ones, check out the link.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...rench-239.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...rench-239.html
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
Let me ask this.....how do you get a torque wrench to fit onto the flange nuts without using a healthy extension, which will throw the amount of torque you're applying completely off. I don't have it handy but there is a formula to recalculate the amount of torque when using an extension.
I wouldn't do it.
I would just snug the nuts up good and tight. Run the bike for a bit i.e. go for a ride and then re-snug them up after a period of cool down.
I wouldn't do it.
I would just snug the nuts up good and tight. Run the bike for a bit i.e. go for a ride and then re-snug them up after a period of cool down.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,598
Likes: 3
From: 27°51' N, 082°17' W
Let me ask this.....how do you get a torque wrench to fit onto the flange nuts without using a healthy extension, which will throw the amount of torque you're applying completely off. I don't have it handy but there is a formula to recalculate the amount of torque when using an extension.
I wouldn't do it.
I would just snug the nuts up good and tight. Run the bike for a bit i.e. go for a ride and then re-snug them up after a period of cool down.
I wouldn't do it.
I would just snug the nuts up good and tight. Run the bike for a bit i.e. go for a ride and then re-snug them up after a period of cool down.
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Banned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 7
From: Southwest Florida
Let me ask this.....how do you get a torque wrench to fit onto the flange nuts without using a healthy extension, which will throw the amount of torque you're applying completely off. I don't have it handy but there is a formula to recalculate the amount of torque when using an extension.
I wouldn't do it.
I would just snug the nuts up good and tight. Run the bike for a bit i.e. go for a ride and then re-snug them up after a period of cool down.
I wouldn't do it.
I would just snug the nuts up good and tight. Run the bike for a bit i.e. go for a ride and then re-snug them up after a period of cool down.
What do they take, 10-12 ft-lbs? Not sure.
Yeah, if you're putting 100 ft-lbs on a nut/bolt with a 18" extension, you need to be aware. The extension will store energy in it and not transfer all the torque to the nut/bolt.
But 10-12 ft-lbs? Unless the extension is six feet long, I wouldn't get too excited about it. You'll be in the 'ball park'. What's just as (or maybe more) important is that both nuts have the same torque on them. Where we get in trouble is when one nut/bolt has 6 ft-lbs and the other one has 15 ft-lbs. If they both have 10 or if they both have 12, 9, 14 or something close to tolerances, I think that's fairly important.
But that's just me.
edit:
Do NOT trust any inexpensive ft-lb torque wrench below 18-19 ft-lbs. Expecially the clicker kind. Anything under that, use your inch-lb torque wrench. 1 ft-lb = 12 inch-lbs.
In fact, I'm not even sure I'd trust an expensive ft-lb TW below that number.
Last edited by Grendel4; Oct 29, 2010 at 08:46 AM.
