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That was it crissman. I opened the master cylinder pulled the lever in halfway and held it, tapped it with a screwdriver out popped a few bubbles and now i got brakes. And to all of you that like to through out the SERVICE MANUAL comment, you may like to know that the info that helped my problem was not found in the manual. Thank again
cLOSE BLEEDER , OPEN TOP AND FILL 3/4 UP. Flick handle lightly a few times and watch air bubbles come up, With 1 hand on lever 1 on wrench on bleeder. Squeeze handle few times hold all the way pulled in while holding handle open bleeder and tighten then let go of handle . Repeat till you start feeling brakes .
P.s. what year bike is it the old style could be a bit**
That was it crissman. I opened the master cylinder pulled the lever in halfway and held it, tapped it with a screwdriver out popped a few bubbles and now i got brakes. And to all of you that like to through out the SERVICE MANUAL comment, you may like to know that the info that helped my problem was not found in the manual. Thank again
I used to write service manuals for one of the past Big 3 carmakers. And I can tell you that YOU ARE RIGHT my friend.
After working 10 years in a dealer then trying tio write the BS...well let's say it didn't work so well. The people that dictate the manuals are most of the time morons and have never held a wrench. I was a glorified note taker with no ability to ADD COMMON SENSE that I had learned from REAL LIFE experience. I Learned more about how to fix something from seeing it day in and day out than from a freakin' book written by an English Major that never turned a wrench. Manuals have their place, I will agree. If you are doing delicate cam timing, or need torque specs. But something like you came across and was answered here is life experience.
What worked for me that I read somewhere on this forum was that after bleeding the brakesw for awhile, fill the reservoir then squeeze the brake hanle and tie it back with rope or a rag or whatever works. I let it sit overnight, came out in the morning tapped the top of the filler to get some bubbles out and had brakes!
I used blue painter tape to hold the lever back against the grip each time. Took for frickin' ever since I didn't realize till late in the game I could pump more than once each time. D'oh!
DOT4 was in mine phrom the dealer, and I'm told 4 & 5 don't play well together. Something about sombining the two causes them to solidify. In phact I think I read it here.
EDIT: Yup, here T C STD posts a good article desricibing the difference between the differnet phluid types. 4 & 5 are not compatible, but 4 & 5.1 are.
There was some warnings on the label of the dot5 container about not mixing the two, i asked the mechanic at a local shop where i get alot of parts and he said all he uses is dot5 and not to worry about switching. My master cylinder was totally empty and i put on a new line, i guess there would be a little left in the caliper but i pumped 3/4 of a bottle through so hopefully i will be ok. I will keep an eye on it though.
Bleeding the brakes is a .....!, Get you one of the old style squirt oil cans with pump/handle on it. Use a piece of clear tubing like air hose from aquarium store, and connect to open bleeder, remove top of master cylinder and pump the fluid up through until no more bubbles. Then bleed a few pumps the conventional way and you are good to go! Besides the dot 5 being better fluid for high temps and water resistance, it does not strip paint or hurt chrome if you spill it!
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