That was my point Mr. Ed... How do you know that your wrench is more accurate? Furthermore, what is the importance of a few ft pounds or inch pounds of torque? Doesn't the bolt's own TPI, quality and cleanliness of threads, lubrication and temperature of assembly have more to do with the final assembly's tension than a few measured ft pounds of torque?

Before you put down everyone that happens to disagree with your "more dollars equals more quality" mindset, I suggest you peruse a copy of Consumer Reports or Popular Mechanics.

I guess we've both had similar results with our chosen torque wrenches. Are you just envious that mine cost a fraction of yours? Fess up, Ed, what's your gig?

 

I've never been able to afford cheap tools.

 

Worked in a cal lab for a bit. I've seen T-wrenches of all brands fail right out of the box and others pass just as well. You can't just check one or two values and call it good....linearity is important.

 

Are you tryin' to convince me that people send HF torque wrenches to cal labs for calibration (which costs more than the wrench)?

I'm not biting.

A good mech covers all the bases (clean threads etc).

 

In most automotive and MC applications, repeatability (even torque) is more important that exact accuracy.
However, headbolts of vehicles with long, thin walled alloy cylinders, like HDs, are more critical for the proper torque. The head and cylinder don't take their "set" until the engine is thoroughly warm and the alloy expands. That's the main reason you never put the stick to the engine when it's cold.

 

A very accurate statement.
But even the little ones can be a huge problem when they have an issue like the OP had. No click at all would have ripped his threads out, had his gut feelin' not stepped in to save the day.

 

What is a "Torque Wrench"?

 

To tighten a bolt where it will not come loose AND at the same time not be tightened too much where it will become deformed causing either immediate of later failure, a wrench called a torque wrench is used. It's name comes from the "turning or twisting" physics definition called torque.

There are basically two types.
1. The rail (or needle) bar type that actually physically delivers torque force to the bar and needle which reflects the reading on a dial. Very dependable, does not need calibration but hard to use if in a position where reading the dial is difficult.

2. The "click" or "rachet" types all have a mechanism that will let go or click, when the set torque is reached. Very handy for areas where it's hard to read a needle dial as above. Only drawback is they can be damaged from one drop, and have to be recalibrated which is expensive.

I have (and need) both types. Hope that explains it for you. In closing there are a few variables. Don't use a torque wrench on pipe threads (such as your oil lite sensor) since you should have used teflon pipe thread lubricant on it to keep it from leaking and if you torque it to specs it could fail due to less friction on the torque from the thread sealant lube. Just torque to what you think will keep it from leaking. If in doubt check with experience before you strip the treads in your crankcase. Some torque specs call for a drop of oil on the threads, if it says this then do it. The torque has been specified with this in mind.
Some other items can get by without torque if you have a good feel for it. But other items it is down right dangerous not to torque them since failure could mean loss of control (not just stripped threads).
Periodically always check your Click type with a Needle type to varify it's settings.