calibration
I just posted about torque adaptors and now that has me wondering...with the ease of stripping something on our engines, do most people trust their torque wrenches for being calibrated or do folks periodically have them checked? I read that it is expensive and would be cheaper to just buy a new one in some circumstances. Thoughts?
That said , most "quality" torque wrenches that are used "ocassionally" don't need calibration.
The "average" guy would be well served with a "sweep needle" type wrench , this does not really need to be calibrated.
It must be carefully used , and pulled very straight , in order to be accurate , if the needle does not return to the middle , throw it out , they're cheap to buy.
If using a "click type" constantly , like every day , you should have it calibrated at least yearly.
If using a "click" type wrench , it must be returned to zero immediately after use or the spring will take a "set" and cause innaccuracy.
Most guys need to read the manual , or instructions , on the procedure that they are doing at the time.
If the instructions say to torque to 25 ft lbs with the fastener threads "lightly oiled" , they are not kidding.
The difference between "lightly oiled" and "dry" can be many lbs off , and cause fastener or gasket failure.
Same goes for "with sealant" or "after chasing threads with a tap" and cleaning.
Another thing modern engines use is "torque to yield" fasteners , these must be replaced EVERY time and usually have a spec like
40 ft lbs and 90 degrees in 2 , 45 degree increments.
These are called "stretch bolts" in the business and actually stretch in length to follow the thermal expansion of the metal , usually to hold head gaskets in a constant state of tension.
Because of these fasteners , we also have "degree readers" so we can accurately turn the degrees after the torque is set.
This goes between the wrench and socket..
Lastly , don't ever use an extension longer than you need to get to the fastener , it will blow your torque reading from a little to alot depending on it's elastic strength.
Hope this helps.
My finger is tired....
Mick.
Been thinking of a re-calibration, but that may just screw things up..
Great Explanation Mick, I kinda hate them strechy bolts..
But three seconds of airflow out the tailpipe is usualy 45 degrees..
haha...
Well. My elbow clicks at 45fp, sholder at 65, and back at 90..
Been thinking of a re-calibration, but that may just screw things up..
Great Explanation Mick, I kinda hate them strechy bolts..
But three seconds of airflow out the tailpipe is usualy 45 degrees..
haha...
Damm fine calibration procedure you have there. Good to know your limits.....
nogood o~`o
Glad to see you got your bike finished.. and the tune came out so good..
A black 07 ultra was my first choice but $27,500
was the mind changer... Dealers here in Houston are really pushing
the StreetGlide....
Well. My elbow clicks at 45fp, sholder at 65, and back at 90..
Been thinking of a re-calibration, but that may just screw things up..
Great Explanation Mick, I kinda hate them strechy bolts..
But three seconds of airflow out the tailpipe is usualy 45 degrees..
haha...
Damm fine calibration procedure you have there. Good to know your limits.....
nogood o~`o










