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Rear Tire Change

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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #1  
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Default Rear Tire Change

It's time to get some new rubber on my rear tire (first time). I called an Indy about the replacement and he asked if the rim was on or off the bike. Originally I was going to ride it on in but the weekend forecast is heavy rain. Also he said it would take him longer to get to it, and it will (of course) cost more - so I'm going to pull it myself.

Question - can the tire and tube be changed and balanced with the disc and sprocket on or does it need to be totally stripped down?

I'm hoping to be there at the door when they open with the rim ready to go and maybe they can squeeze me in right away.

Thanks for the info. - Jimmie
 
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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Leave it on.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 01:14 AM
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I would ride the bike in and have them replace tire with OEM rear tire.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 07:27 AM
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You need to balance with the sprocket and discs on, if not you may not be balanced when you put them on later, it becomes a unit on the bike...I did the removal myself and had an indy mount and balance mine for me a few months ago, if you have any specific questions, I may be able to help
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 08:28 AM
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I'll be attempting this next riding season on my 2010 WG. I have the manual and would be happy to post scanned images of the pages for rear wheel removal if that would help. Manual syas to "loosen [axel] adjuster on each side several turns to remove belt tension" is this necessary? since loosening these would allow the wheel to move backwards? or am i understanding this all wrong. I don't want to get into re-alligning the wheel if i don't have to....
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I have the manual so I should be okay there - I just wasn't sure what kind of equipment they may use to install and balance. It make sense that the tire, sprocket, and disc should be balanced as a unit.

As it turns out - I've been dealing with a cold or flu and today I feel terrible. Looks like I won't be doing $hit today (maybe a lot of web surfing).

Thanks for the input - Jimmie
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 11:46 AM
  #7  
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You don't say what bike you have. And check the wheel bearings, while it's off. Mine were bad when I had the tire replaced (@9k). If you remove it yourself (I presume you have an MC lift?) backing off the belt tension a precise 3.00 turns will allow you to easily return it to its' original position, w/o changing the alignment, but you should check the alignment anyway.

My stock Dunlop was replaced w/ the Metzler ME880, which I can recommend, based on the 1st 1k miles in wet, dry and dirt. Note these tires require a few # higher pressure.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by mang0
I'll be attempting this next riding season on my 2010 WG. I have the manual and would be happy to post scanned images of the pages for rear wheel removal if that would help. Manual syas to "loosen [axel] adjuster on each side several turns to remove belt tension" is this necessary? since loosening these would allow the wheel to move backwards? or am i understanding this all wrong. I don't want to get into re-alligning the wheel if i don't have to....
Put a mark on the adjusters before you loosen them. Then simply count the turns when you loosen them. On reassembly, tighten the adjusters the same number of turns you previously loosened them. End result is exactly the same belt tension and wheel alignment you had going in.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 12:45 PM
  #9  
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appreciate the tips :-)
 
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Old Nov 20, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mang0
Manual syas to "loosen [axel] adjuster on each side several turns to remove belt tension" is this necessary? I don't want to get into re-alligning the wheel if i don't have to....
I did not loosen the axle adjuster screws. I used a lift to raise the bike. Put a floor jack under the rear wheel and removed the lower shock bolts. when the swing arm lowers it wll have enough slack in the belt to remove it from the pulley. it also makes it easier to put the axle back in.
 
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