A few days ago I did my first top engine stabilizer adjustment. I was able to loosen the stabilizer locking nut with a 3/8"drive 9/16" crowsfoot on a rachet extension. I had to unplug the electrical connector off the front injector to give enough room for the crowsfoot.

However even though I got it loose and snugged it back up "pretty good" when done, I was somewhat curious if you guys have come up with any way to hold the opposite end of the stabilizer (the non threaded end) during breaking loose and tightening. In other words I had to let the non threaded end hold itself which puts pressure on the right stabilizer joint which I'm thinking is not a good thing, but I could not come up with any way to get an open end crowsfoot on it due to the injectors being in the way.

If I could find a hinged flex open end wrench I think that might work but all the flex wrenches I see are box end or flare end (closed crowsfoot).

Course even if the locking nut came loose the design of the stabilizer is such that it could not unscrew much at all, but just wondering about what you more experienced guys have done about this.

Appreciate any input you have on this. My local dealer service shop isn't real helpful on giving out "how" they do things.

Oh and by the way I drew it out in a cad drawing and measured the actual difference of a 1 degree difference between two 21" wheels (obviously the rear on my bike is 17" but just for simplicity I kept it the same as the front wheel). And the rotation would occur from the center of the wheels downward to the bottom most circumference. This measured 0.1833 of an inch difference at 1 degrees out which is almost 3/16 of an inch at a 10-1/2" radius (21") wheel.
The manual says if within 1 degree it's ok, which I surmise may have something to do with how much one full turn of the stabilizer moves it.