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Flat Black Spray Paint?

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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:06 PM
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Default Flat Black Spray Paint?

I am painting my fenders flat black. Anyone have any good recommendations on a flat black spray paint to use?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by themtimes
I am painting my fenders flat black. Anyone have any good recommendations on a flat black spray paint to use?
Plenty of choices at the auto parts store. Use the automotive type. The spray is a finer mist than Krylon cans. Use light 1000 grit wet paper between coats.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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Thanks, can you walk me through the process a little bit if you don't mind? The fenders are denim blue now.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by themtimes
Thanks, can you walk me through the process a little bit if you don't mind? The fenders are denim blue now.
You need a smooth surface to start. Lightly sand with 800 or 1000 grit wet/dry paper. Use a spray bottle with water for lube. You need the new paint to "bite". Run your bare hand over the fender to "feel" the surface. Clean the sanded surface with a little methyl alcohol. Let it dry thoroughly. Clamp a broomstick to an old chair to hang the fender on or wire it to a rafter in the garage. Shake the can for at least a minute. Start to spray before you hit the surface and continue past the end. Work back and forth with smooth movement until surface is just covered with the new paint. Let dry. VERY LIGHTLY SAND with 1000 grit and water, repeat process 3 or 4 times for a nice finish. You may want to practice on scrap first. Don't paint if the ambient humidity is higher than 50%, or colder than 55F in your work area. Don't paint if your wife just swept the sawdust or leaves from the garage floor. Clean is key for a good finish. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 10:16 PM
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Thanks man, I appreciate the help. I'll post pics asap.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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I used Krylon flat black. I sanded with 400 then 600 then 800 all wet. I had a two tone paint before so I had to do more sanding than you because there is a ridge where the two colors meet. I found that if I hung the tins the paint would sag or run more than if I sat them flat on a table. Start your spray before the fender and end after it. That will help prevent higher spots and little drops that form at the begining of the spray. Make sure you let it dry for at least an hour before you touch it. Sucks having fingerprints in you new paint (ask me how I know) because then you have to sand it out and do it over.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by howitzer88
You need a smooth surface to start. Lightly sand with 800 or 1000 grit wet/dry paper. Use a spray bottle with water for lube. You need the new paint to "bite". Run your bare hand over the fender to "feel" the surface. Clean the sanded surface with a little methyl alcohol. Let it dry thoroughly. Clamp a broomstick to an old chair to hang the fender on or wire it to a rafter in the garage. Shake the can for at least a minute. Start to spray before you hit the surface and continue past the end. Work back and forth with smooth movement until surface is just covered with the new paint. Let dry. VERY LIGHTLY SAND with 1000 grit and water, repeat process 3 or 4 times for a nice finish. You may want to practice on scrap first. Don't paint if the ambient humidity is higher than 50%, or colder than 55F in your work area. Don't paint if your wife just swept the sawdust or leaves from the garage floor. Clean is key for a good finish. Good luck.
I would def not go down to 1000 grit! that is not enough to bite to... get a red scuff pad and hit your tins with that, then some self etching primer and shoot over that, will allow for the best surface...
everything else in this post is 100000% dead on, some people do go to 1000 grit i just personally do not feel that is enough to bite to, 800 at the most IMO
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JRK5892
I would def not go down to 1000 grit!... 800 at the most IMO

A BIG plus one on that. And you do know that any spray can paint (except for the 2-part “mix in the can”) is not going to hold up anywhere near as good as your OEM blue denim…
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:15 PM
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I prefer to strip down to bare metal. Go over the bare metal with 220 grit. Then spray on a wet coat of self etching primer. Wet sand the self etching primer with 400 grit. Then since you are going with a flat black I would lay down a few wet coats of black primer and wet sand with 800 grit very lightly between coats being careful not to sand through to the previous coat. Then lay down a few wet coats of the flat black wet sanding with 1000 grit between coats being careful not to sand through to the previous coat. Then I would top it off with a few wet coats of flat clear wet sanding between coats with 1000 grit being careful not to sand through to the previous coat. After the final coat of flat clear I would wet sand it with 1000 then 1500 then 2000. Then get some polishing compound to remove the sanding marks and buff it to a smooth as glass finish. You will have the flat black look with a flat clear coat to protect the flat black and it will look killer.
 

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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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if you are going over a pre existing paint job... get a sealer for a base coat to keep it from bubbling up on you my old man paints cars for a living and this is what he told me.. i wanted to do the same and he alo said you will never get the lines out of a rattle can flat (lines from painting) and you dont want to sand it smooth with a 3000 grit it will make it worse... but a low volume spray gun 35-55psi and rent a compressor or go buy one and do it right...
 
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