Changing Front Fork oil?
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 10
From: Suffolk, England
Seriously? Apart from all the other fluids running out too then, yes, I suppose you could.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 4
From: Newtown, PA
Upside down could be best...
Hmmm...what about laying the bike down on its side, then putting a rope through a pulley attached to the garage rafters, tying one end to the bike, and pulling the bike up so it is swinging, upside-down, from the rope? This way one could drain the fork tubes, gas tank, and transmission, all at the same time...
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
I just did this procedure so I will comment.
If you are "just changing" the oil go with what JRK5892 said - its the easiest and safest bet.
I totally disassembled my forks, tubes and all the rods for powder coating purposes and let me tell you the 12mm bolt on the bottom is a pain in the A$$ - I had to use an impact wrench to screw it back on since it tightens on the dampening rod that spins inside the fork tube.
Anyways there is no need to mess with the screw if you're just changing the oil for lets say the HEAVY one.
*** be sure not to lose the top cap as it is spring loaded so put a towel on it when unscrewing (mine flew so hard and bounced around my garage a bit the 1st time hehe)
*** be sure to pump the fork to get the oil out
*** be sure to pump the fork when added the oil to cycle it though the internals and get the air out
- good luck
P.S. - why are you changing fork oil on 2010 bike?
If you are "just changing" the oil go with what JRK5892 said - its the easiest and safest bet.
I totally disassembled my forks, tubes and all the rods for powder coating purposes and let me tell you the 12mm bolt on the bottom is a pain in the A$$ - I had to use an impact wrench to screw it back on since it tightens on the dampening rod that spins inside the fork tube.
Anyways there is no need to mess with the screw if you're just changing the oil for lets say the HEAVY one.
*** be sure not to lose the top cap as it is spring loaded so put a towel on it when unscrewing (mine flew so hard and bounced around my garage a bit the 1st time hehe)
*** be sure to pump the fork to get the oil out
*** be sure to pump the fork when added the oil to cycle it though the internals and get the air out
- good luck
P.S. - why are you changing fork oil on 2010 bike?
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
"all" of my oil came out just by removing the bottom bolt and pumping the shock ...
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: CA 93555
the manual says 26 oz for the front fork capacity, is that per tube or total for both tubes together?
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Road Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 69
From: Bay Area, NorCal
My '010 Dyna service manual lists fluid qty "per tube." Also, there might be a measurement in inches for the height of the fluid level in the tube (measured when collapsed) that you may need to check after filling (there is for the '010s, not sure about your '07 - see your service manual).
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
That's basically what I stated a bit earlier, I was just using a more manual method. Why the guys want to make it more difficult it beyond me. In the general theme of things, that last drop of fluid doesn't matter at all.