Changing Front Fork oil?
depends how you do it... if you are just swapping oil to have a thicker oil in it, i would break them loose at the top caps, use a towl over that as you unscrew it so it does nto go flying across the room from the preload on the spring, after that is out, pull the fork leg out, remove the spring and spacer (take note of how it came out as it needs to go back in the same way), flip upside down and pour it out... from there pump the leg a few times to get it all out... after that, fill back to spec and measure (be sure to burp the system by pumping the leg slowly so you do not blow oil all over the place), be sure you spring is in right and spacer, then snug up the top cap on the leg again... slide into the trees and tighten it down, the tighen the top cap and torque to spec on all
you can do the whole job with a torqes bit, basic sockets, some painters tape, and a adjustable crescent wrench
you can do the whole job with a torqes bit, basic sockets, some painters tape, and a adjustable crescent wrench
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,787
Likes: 5,612
From: along the shore of Mishigami
That's one of the "user friendly" jobs that HD took away from the owner. The older bikes are much simpler, remove cap, remove drain screw,drain ,install drain screw, add oil install cap.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 4
From: Kennewick, WA
Just undo the cap, remove the spacer and spring, then stick a very small diameter (brake line hard tube works well) tube attached to some hose and add a vacuum source to the end and suck it out.
First block up the rear of the frame and place a scissor jack on the front of the frame. Now you can lower the front end to remove the springs. Use the same method to raise and lower the forks repeatedly to slowly pump them to remove the air after adding new fork oil.
Replacing the top caps can be a frustrating job, trying to get those first few turns in while fighting the spring's resistance can seem impossible. Another set of hands could come in handy. I've always done mine alone, but wish I had some help.
First block up the rear of the frame and place a scissor jack on the front of the frame. Now you can lower the front end to remove the springs. Use the same method to raise and lower the forks repeatedly to slowly pump them to remove the air after adding new fork oil.
Replacing the top caps can be a frustrating job, trying to get those first few turns in while fighting the spring's resistance can seem impossible. Another set of hands could come in handy. I've always done mine alone, but wish I had some help.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 10
From: Suffolk, England
Just to be different, here's how I do it...
1. Prop front of bike and remove front wheel.
2. Undo the hex bolt under the bottom of the fork where the axle normally sits
3. Let the oil drain - might take a few minutes to stop dripping
4. Loosen off the top triple clamp
5. Remove the fork cap with a rag held over the top to stop it pinging away
6. Remove the spacer and fork spring - remember to drip oil everywhere and make as much mess as possible
7. Pump the fork to get the last of the oil out
8. Try refitting the bolt under the fork (apply blue loctite). It will likely spin in place, in which case temporarily refit the spacer, spring and cap, then tighten bolt up as per torque in manual.
8. (Remove the cap again if necessary)
9. Refill with new oil to level in the manual - DO NOT USE 30W as someone suggesed above. Far too heavy, the front wheel will be skipping over every little bump. I suggest Screamin Eagle Heavy Duty or any good 15W.
10. Fit fork cap
11. Tighten top triple clamp
12. Do other fork
13. Refit front wheel
13. Drink beer
1. Prop front of bike and remove front wheel.
2. Undo the hex bolt under the bottom of the fork where the axle normally sits
3. Let the oil drain - might take a few minutes to stop dripping
4. Loosen off the top triple clamp
5. Remove the fork cap with a rag held over the top to stop it pinging away
6. Remove the spacer and fork spring - remember to drip oil everywhere and make as much mess as possible
7. Pump the fork to get the last of the oil out
8. Try refitting the bolt under the fork (apply blue loctite). It will likely spin in place, in which case temporarily refit the spacer, spring and cap, then tighten bolt up as per torque in manual.
8. (Remove the cap again if necessary)
9. Refill with new oil to level in the manual - DO NOT USE 30W as someone suggesed above. Far too heavy, the front wheel will be skipping over every little bump. I suggest Screamin Eagle Heavy Duty or any good 15W.
10. Fit fork cap
11. Tighten top triple clamp
12. Do other fork
13. Refit front wheel
13. Drink beer
Last edited by Foxster; Mar 13, 2011 at 05:40 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 17
From: Central FL
The hex bolt on the bottom of the fork is not a drain plug. It holds the internals of the damping system in. Removing it will cause oil to come out but you will still have oil left on there. The correct way is through the top. A 35mm socket is the size you need. Put a little painters tape on it so you don't scratch the chrome. You can get the socket at most auto parts stores. Loosen the top pinch bolt first the break loose the cap. Once that's done finish removal of the fork leg and change the oil out. To reinstall fill with oil then extend the fork and place it back on the bike using the bottom pinch bolt of the triple clamp to hold it. Now replace the washer,spring, and spacer and use the socket to pu the cap on. The complete job takes about 1 hour for both sides.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 10
From: Suffolk, England
I know its not the way according to the manual but I can assure you it works fine and leaves no more oil behind than removing the forks and inverting them.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 10
From: Suffolk, England
. I will say though that the first time I did it without inverting the forks I couldn't get the bolt to catch (didn't know I had to put the spring and cap back for that) so I removed the forks and inverted them, there was no oil apart from a couple of drops came out.
Whatever works for people is fine. It really is no big job to drop out the forks to drain them, I just got into the habit of doing it the other way.